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Considering the extremely limited market, you would need to charge $500 each for them just to break even.  (Speaking as a manufacturing engineer.)

These are not a custom part.  The source and or application just needs to be found.  Perhaps a trailer hub of some sort rather than an ATV?

I don't know what to tell you other than don't hold your breath on either of those being available any time soon.  If you are looking to upgrade an existing Avid, look for a started kit to finish.  

If you are starting from scratch, I would highly suggest going with a more established company that will support you in your building like Kitfox or Just or …??

I almost wondered about making some that way too. If there was enough call for them it might even be worth having some cast from aluminum and professionally machined to accept the right bearings.

Hey Randy , its good to know yours can fly hands off,raising the angle of the motor diffenently got rid of alot of the back pressure on the elevator,the HS struts came off a model C , and diffenently warps the forward of HS up and the rear down.I dont have a trim  on my avid but looks like i'll be trying to install one,hopefully I can do something  with a cable,thanks for the info

He told me he is hoping to catch up with his message backlog in the near future and reorganize the business going into the new year as a fresh start.

Alright, it's the new year.  Any news from this guy?

I'm interested in building an Airdale or Pursang.  Should I keep knocking?

Thanks.  I'd ordered the ACS part and was going to snip the material off to re-use on a 1/8" elbow, but this looks a lot cleaner. 

Also, I did find these: http://tinyurl.com/p3ncddr (ebay)  Looks like some common riding lawnmowers use a 1/8" flange/bung, and this part includes a finger screen and screw valve.  I ordered one to check out the quality, flow rate, and fuel compatibility, but I really doubt I'll go that way.  (Although having a screw valve at each tank outlet would make fuel system maintenance pretty easy.  I'd probably be compelled to safety wire it open, and that would look a little odd)

Joey, do you know if this manual was tailored to a particular avid model?

If you could get rid of the elbow and use a straight fitting, you might get by with the in-line filters, otherwise you are probably making the best choice by adding the finger screens. 

Let us know about the tractor fitting.

EDMO

Thanks guys- I've got a couple of those exact filters laying around.  After seeing the junk that had settled in the elbows, I'm somewhat set on having finger strainers of some sort to protect the intakes and the elbows.   

I found the other thread that discussed snipping the strainer off the 3/8 NPT Aircraft Spruce part, and soldering it to a standard 1/8" elbow.  I think this is the way I'm gonna go. 

I did find these: http://tinyurl.com/p3ncddr  (ebay)    It seems several riding lawnmowers use a 1/8" fuel tank bung, and the common part includes a finger screen and a screw valve.   I ordered one to check it out for flow rate and quality, but I doubt it will pass muster. 

Leni uses SPECTRA  2369 from SUMMIT RACING, at local auto parts dealers.  It comes with adapters for 3 different sizes of fuel lines, slip-on fittings. About $10

EDMO

My advice is to go find a PA-18 and look closely at fuselage and measure gear.

BTW Randy - Sprecken Ze Missourish?  Just kidding, I think I know what you know you said thinking that I would think about it?

EDMO

Too bad KF doesn't still make the hubs for the older models.  When I bought the set I have several years ago they said they thought they might have 1 or 2 left.  Someone with a lathe and some skill chould turn out the hubs and continue to sell them still I'll bet.  I used the hubs on the 21" Nanco's and the 25" atv tires I ran for a while on the 9" Douglas wheels.  The 25" atv tires with the tread cut off worked very well; a step above the 21's.

Randy,
The Protec PT2 added braces as you see in this drawing:

Randy, I think if we got Larry up here playing in the rocks and sand he would understand.. unlike the guys that put them on to land on manicured grass strips, they do soak up the bumps and allow us to go places that would put his 21" hard tires through the seat pan

I think Jeff got a wake up call on his 8:50s landing and taking off the McArthur river sand bar.  soft fluffy sand and little tires just don't work well.

And yes, the difference between 8:50s and 26" bush wheels is a big as it is between 26" and 31".  Unless you have done it and tried it, ya just cant know the difference it makes.

however... that is a funny ass picture Larry!   

Willis,

I only had one mounting hole in the front and one in the rear for the HS on my Avid+ airframe.  Looking at Doug's pictures, it looks like mine is located in what would be the upper hole of Doug's frame.  I used the HS from my Avid MKIV and it is flat.  I mounted the struts to the HS and adjusted the angle a little with washers until the bottom mounting position lined up well with the tab on the airframe, made sure the HS was square to the airframe and then clamped it and drilled the holes for the bottom bolt in the tab.  No warp in the HS at all.

Mine flies hands off easily for as long as you want to if the air isn't too turbulent but the trim changes some depending on how heavily loaded it is and where the weight is.  I have the trim on the HS set so there is plenty of trim range when I have a normal light solo load but if it is heavy I have to pull an additional notch of flaperon so I have enough trim range on the HS to fly hands off.

The fact that you are still having the engine power affect your stick pressure makes me think the area that still needs some tweaking is the engine thrust line.  Mine has no tendancy to pull the nose down with full power; it tends to pull the nose up a little, but not too strong or abrupt.

Thanks Dave,

     I was mostly concerned about the door rubbing on fabric as the body twists in flight - planned to use a rubber strip around door, but thought about putting aluminum around door opening after fabric was on to prevent chaffing.

EDMO

Leni posted an inline clear glass filter a while back, probably in technical posts - he uses it instead of the tank filter, I think.  He said he could clean it easier than the tank filters.

I have a copy, if you cant find it.

EDMO

I looked and didn't find it in technical posts, or General Hanger, or in my files - PM Leni about it.

ED

I found the reference and site listing from Leni in "NEW HEADER TANK FOR AVID"  it's the site for Summit racing, I think, and Akflyer's comments are also in the thread.

Ed

Haha, I guess I deserve that.  But I think the the real reason is the bumper sticker under the hard core section.

Thanks Ed,

That shows why the wider V in the landing gear is so important to take that horizontal direction landing load.  Each axial load in the gear tubing structure has to resist the horizontal and vertical loads of the landing loads.  These have to resist in equal and oposite forces within the landing gear.  When you break these into horizontal and vertical components you see that to resist the horizontal component with a narrow V requires a much larger axial load.  That is why the single spring gear legs, like Grove gear, apply such a huge rotational load on the airframe where they connect.  The large spring gear itself is designed to take this load but it imparts it to the airframe in a narrow little space.  If you use this gear off airport, you better be sure your airframe is designed to take it.

Sorry--  I couldn't resist...

This is your plane on 30" airstreaks.  Any questions?

Ed,

I installed a baggage door after the fabric was on. I installed some pieces of oak between the stringer and the top longeron prior to cutting the fabric. Then I poly tacked the fabric to the stringer and the added oak pieces then I cut the fabric to allow wrapping around the stringer, vertical pieces and top longeron. That became the frame for the door. When I get the plane out again I will try to take better pictures than before.

Dave

Nice video. Funny thing with videos, even HD, is how much is not captured. Must be a perspective thing, or just the reality of trying to fit real life onto a digital file. I have taken some cockpit video with a GoPro2 in the Sedan. I've used hard slips quite a bit on landings (no flaps on the Sedan), and it just does not come across on the video. Yeah, you can tell that the nose is not lined up with the path of flight, but it's very minor and nothing like what it felt like. Same with a bounce while landing on floats, it just didn't come through. Which is fine with me 

Nice video though, C5. Looks like a nice area to fly.

-Nate

Scott--  Hey I forgot you signed up over here on the dark side of the flapperon community.  Why don't you share your tale of gearbox woes...

Hey "other guy", thanks for posting up, let us know how the plane flys when it warms up enough for ya! 

Larry, hope you kick the bug in the ass and get back to working on the birds soon!  I think its a crap shoot on who is going to finish a project first.. My 800 conversion, your mangy fox, and ... well any of the planes that Doug is working on