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Looks very nice.

I have a Ridge Runner Model 2, very similar to that, not flying right now as it's in need of some repairs.

Nice to see you got the proper wing supports with it, too. Mine got towed by the PO from Wisconsin  to S. Ontario without using any supports and I don't think that does them much good.

sweet!

 I just picked up this Sky Raider 1 today. It has the 447 Rotax, radio, GPS, electric trim, EIS, two 5 gallon gas tanks and wheel ski's. The only thing I am not sure of is how to run the EIS system, radio and the GPS, I am used to looking out the window and just flying.

Chris,

     I have some Belleville washers.   One guy with castoring gear on Avid or Kitfox stated that he added centering springs to each side of nosefork and stopped the shimmy problem.   I also have a shimmy dampner that I could use if I put new seals in it.  As I said, I can make it steerable if needed.

What is not clear in the photo is the 5 degree angle that the pivot tube should make when loaded.

     The Cessna steering rods are spring-loaded, and that might help too.

     I appreciate your comments - about all of my flying is now on pavement and short grass - time will tell.

Oilite bushings top and bottom - cheap to replace at $5 each.

     I probably wont have all that travel once I put the Soob in front, full tanks, and 170 lbs in the seat...

 Learned a long time  ago to drag the tail as much as practical, after fighting a shimmy on the 150 nose!

Thanks,

EdMO

I almost knew you wanted the STOL advantage and not speed - But what about the huge difference in wing chord/span compared to the Cub???  How much could the smaller 35B wings do over what the undercambered already does?  Just thinking and writing...

.

What about the high-lift / slow cruise wings used on the Zenith 701/ 801 - It gets off the ground quick?

Longer wings and bigger flaperons plus slats or extended leading edge with the undercambered might be just about the best stol you could get out of our small birds.

EdMO

_{Hi Ed,}

_{That looks promising, but from my experimentation with large tailwheels on my Magnum you WILL need some pretty significant dampening or that large castering nosetwheel will shimmy like the dickens! I doubt a shimmying nosewheel would be as forgiving as a shimmying tailwheel, and a badly shimmying tailwheel can be frightening.}

_{I am using my legs as the damping on my design by making it steerable with positive linkage to both pedals. My feet should act as dampeners to prevent shimmy.}

_{The castering wheel that came with my plane originally uses belliville washers to establish a damping pre-load. I can take a picture of my own if you like to see how RV did it, but they don't use a spring like you, which would complicate adding damping.}

_{Also curious what bushings you intend to use as radial loads will be significant while the suspension is pumping.}

_{I LOVE all that travel as long as it doesn't result in prop too close to ground when hitting a big bump in the road. Wish mine had more travel.}

_Chris

Doug,  just want a longer list of planes than you ;-)  Looks like it will be a bit more work than I wanted..... Do able and worth it, but I only have so much time.....Jim

One other point for the cub wing is that it's kind of like the chevy 350 of wings. There is a ton of accumulated knowledge about them. There has been a lot of experimentation and improvement on them. And, there are lots of suppliers that offer many types of parts for them. Even if it wasn't better than the Avid wing, these would be big points in it's favor.

I have the 180 for speed.  The avid is purely STOL fun flying, and was never intended to be a CC machine.  Nothing so far seems to be able to beat a cub in STOL competitions... Infact, the cub guys have certainly SPANKED the hell out of the guys with 200,000 super duper latest and greatest STOL machines.. That makes one stop and wonder if old Mr Taylor just got it right and some things really cant be improved on.

When a 95 HP cub (stripped down and super light) keeps kicking the ever loving shit out of the SQ's, Highlanders, Carbon Cubs etc, one must take note that maybe that wing is just one of the best ever developed for STOL work.  99% of the guys that work cubs for a living prefer the straight wing with no mods to it.. why? because it works day in and day out and does not have nasty habits.

Just something to ponder on

Jim,

My Mk-IV did not have the nut welded on, maybe Stan the factory welder missed it?

P.S. - another KF, must be getting a little tight out in the projects barn these days, LOL!

Harry Riblett would probably say, "You Digressed" !   The Cubs don't set any speed records!

EdMO

I am wondering just how the ole avid would do with the USA 35B ribs... I have been kicking around the idea to build a new set of wings using the KF IV profile but I may give this some thought

I know from experience that the flaperons are very effective when getting down on the ground quickly.  On short runways when I need pressure on the ground to get my plane stopped, dumping the flaprons does the trick.  Randy probably knows this to.  My Avid would float for a ways if I left the flaperons down.

Hi Doug,  that pic was of the seat truss strengthening before the plane was completely reassembled.  Bungees were put on later.  I guess things are like a chain, the weakest link breaks first.  If you strengthen that link, then the next weakest one goes next.  I suppose the ideal thing is not to pull so hard, but that is easier said than done some times.  ) Jim Chuk

PS I like you stop just fine, I was just pointing out that he might have what he needs already if he puts a bolt into the nut.... ;-)

All the Avids I've been around had a nut welded onto the top of the seat truss that you could screw a bolt into that would act as a stop for the flap lever.  I believe Doug's picture is of a Kitfox, but the Avid is built very similar in that area.  Here is a shot of a MK IV Avid getting the seat truss strengthened.  See the 1/4" nut and bolt on the top center of the seat truss.  Jim Chuk

Jim- you are correct, my pic showed a Kitfox but I did the same thing on my Mk-IV. Quick and easy, nothing permanent. On your pic, I can't help but notice the seat truss strengthening but no bungee gear. If using the aluminum gear, don't forget to strengthen the side sill trusses ahead of and behind the spring gear mounting clamps. That is the 'new' weak spot, trust me. (

Cliff - a search for "rigging flaperons" will return the "Kitfox III rigging" thread I linked in post #15 earlier, plus a dozen more threads with some very good info and tips. I don't think you should have much trouble getting your flaperons to KF3 rigging specs since the Avid mixer and flaperon control rod setup is so very similar to the corresponding KF3 equipment, both in physical makeup and adjusting methodology. Only potential issue I can foresee would come if the Avid vs. KF had dissimilar flaperon control rod lengths or flaperon horn attach angles. That might require fabricating new rods but not a terribly big deal.

Sorry I made a mistake in my previous thread. The kitfox 3 wings are held up by Avid struts. We went through a bunch of work to fabricate wing attachment brackets so we could use the Avid struts.

Thank you all for your advice. We put the wings and flapperons on yesterday. The plane was originally a speed wing and we had a pair of Kitfox 3 wings that we were going to use on our other Mark 4. So now we have an Early Avid speedwing with Kitfox 3 wings, struts, and flapperons. How should we rig the ailerons? We only have a Mark 4 manual.

Leni,

    Guess we stirred the pot enough to  get some really good info posted - Thanks to Luke!

Maybe you could put the info posts in "Files and Forms" so they are easy to find?

EdMO

Yeah, it's kind of fun to just scan through and see what they used on various famous planes. It's also interesting to see how popular some airfoils were. It makes you wonder how critical airfoil selection really is on your average GA plane.

Most people probably noticed this,  but just in-case you didn't, there is another part of the site that has all of the airfoil coordinates:

http://aerospace.illinois.edu/m-selig/ads/coord_database.html

If you just want to see what an airfoil looks like, you can also click on the gif file to see a plot of it.

Sweet site Luke!! Thanks for posting that one!

Cool website, Luke...

Thanks Leni and Luke for the info.

     I have the TCDS on both the Ercoupe 415C/D and the Maule M4C, and maybe the Cessna 150 and 182 - The are stored with my many books and papers, and I haven't looked at them for a few years.   Not really too worried about it now that they are all gone - Got to think about this Monster I have been building for a few years with the Eppler/Riblett/Ashby wing ribs and get it finished.

Looks like you hit the Jackpot of info Luke!

EDMO

Hey Ed, check out this site:

http://aerospace.illinois.edu/m-selig/ads/aircraft.html

It's a pretty complete list.

Hint: press ctrl+F and type in the name of the aircraft you want to search the page.

I just searched for the Maule on that page, and it looks like all models used the good old USA 35B mod.

https://store-dtwuls.mybigcommerce.com/content/a-787_rev33.pdf

TCDS for ercoupe... I have not seen one on any of the planes I have researched (cessna, piper etc.) that listed the wing profile or airfoil. 

You can google just about any TCDS for any aircraft and download it.

I had to do this on the 180 when I was arguing the use of the 1 1/8" tail spring versus the .875" tail spring.  take you back to CAR3 not current regs..