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Just so we are on the same page, we have an Avid mkIV that we plan to use extended speed wing. We have a freshly overhauled 582 by Rotax Rick, C box, and a big 3 blade prop that I can't remember the make of off the top of my head, Came off a Kitfox IV. Looking for the wash out for the wing rebuild. We also need the left fuel tank. Will a Kitfox IV fuel tank work?

Thanks Ed. I was thinking it would be 1 inch or less. Does anybody else have an opinion? Brett told me that extending the speed wing with the original wash out almost canceled out the additional wing area because the wash out would increase with the extension. It made sense, so we decided we would rebuild the entire wing and build in what ever wash out we wanted. We won't get to it until spring but we would like to know for sure from some one who has done it so we build the best wing we can. We have a set of Kitfox 4 droop wing tips that we plan to use. We are looking for the best middle of the road cruise speed and stol performance. Should I start another thread for this topic?

Cliff,

      Unless someone, like our DHolly, has better technical info on the extended speed wings, I would use 1/2 inch washout on the MkIV- whether that is at the end of the original spar, or the end of the extension, is something I wouldn't know.  It might not matter which?

      1/2 inch washout seems to be the general consensus for better cruise than the old 1 1/2 inch washout on the early birds.

EdMO

Dynomike, thank you. It was a rewarding day to say the least. 

ABF  thank you for checking I mic,ed the wall thickness and it is .082 Kitfox is .065 I think.

that's awesome ,congratulations on a safe first flight !

We rigged the airplane as described in the manual, Limited the flaps to 15degrees and it flew hands off on the first flight today after a 2 year restoration. It is easier to fly than our Kolb twinstar. Another old Avid is back in the air. Thanks all for your good advice. Now we have to get back to work  on our MK IV. We started the work on it about 4 years ago. We used the wings we built for it to replace the speed wings on our Avid A model. So now we are going to rebuild the speed wings and install the extension kit that we bought from Brett about 2 years ago. We are going to completely dissassemble the speed wings and rebuid them. Does any one have any idea what the best washout for extended speed wings should be? We also need a left speed wing fuel tank. Anybody have one for sale?

Thanks guys. I think I'll call them tomorrow to see about the regulators needed for the Meco.

Hi

I'm looking for avid aircraft Dynasmooth motor mounts for my 582

regards Mario

Please email me @

Mario@1all.com

Ultralight, seems easier on my gearbox and wallet

Luked,

I have a Smith mini torch that I use the Mico tips on. Tips are excellent quality and Tinmantech has excellent service and help. I bought the Smith Portable torch kit

https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:23-1010P

It's a great size for me. The Mico tips are better than Smiths but are a different thread, so I ran the correct die on the copper tip holder. This was the most cost affective way to get started. I would buy the Micco unit now because I think it's easier-more maneuverable to use. Tinmantech has some great videos on YouTube. Good luck, Bryce

Thanks Jim,

       I made the cabin top here when my wings were in Alaska - Since I knew the spar diameter and thickness of the inserts, I used 2.250 tube length and planned to shorten them when I had the wings here.   The 2.125 figure should just be a good slip fit in my wings.

       The tubes are all real close to 5/16 inch above the crosstubes, so all I have to do is shorten the bottoms of the tubes to fit.

EdMO

Hi Ed,  I typed this once already, and didn't post it the first time.  I didn't look at the manual to see if they said anything on it, but I believe these tubes were meant to be trimmed to fit on factory kits.  Depending on what thickness metal you use for the doublers in the spars and the wall thickness on the spars themselves, someone else's measurements might not help you at all.  I would say tighter is better than loose, and if you start out with something like 1/32" play, you can always go bigger if need be, but it's hard to back up if it's to loose.  Once the bolt is in the back wing attach point, it's not going anywhere anyway.  Then all you need to worry about is the front when you are unfolding the wings.  Jim Chuk

I like the idea of buying local also, but some times it's hard to beat or even come close to prices on line for things.  Last winter I bought a new Uniweld model 71 welding torch body off of Amazon.com.  Regular retail was probably about $150.  Seen them on ebay and Amazon for about $110.  free shipping.  Next time I looked on Amazon, it was $79 with free shipping.  Bought it plus tips then.  Hard to pass up that good of a deal.  Ended up getting 10' long super soft flexable hose from TM technologies ($45 plus ship) but now I have a nice light torch for light gas welding.  Now if I just had the skill needed to use it.  I had the regulators and tanks and such already.  I think the meco torch needs lower pressure regulators than a standard torch.  Jim Chuk

Luke,

     I don't know much about welding - been thru 3 welding courses, and they never talked about LP.  I'm a life-long machinist and toolmaker - Doctors told me if I didn't quit welding that I would probably lose my other kidney to cancer - I now hire a welder.

EDMO

I agree Larry about buying local. I guess I should get my regulators there. The other stuff, they don't deal with. I talked to them a while back about it. I guess it's too specialized for them. They didn't even say it was something they could order in.

Interesting idea Ed. Might have to learn how to weld again though. Wonder if there is any advantage aside from cost.

One more question for everyone. I'm planning to put check valves and flame arrestors on my setup. There doesn't seem to be any consensus from what I've read as to where the best place for them is. I'm thinking of putting check valves on the torch, and the arrestors on the regulators.

Travis,

I have a set of stock Avid TD gear (unused) I would sell for $150 or so but don't know what the shipping would be from AK.  If you are interested, let me know and we can work something out I am sure.

Randy

My FAA repair station welder uses Propane instead of acetalene - says it is cheaper - However, unless you know how to use LP, then stay with acetalene (sp?)

Chrysler used LP in their assembly line torches, both for welding and for body solder.

EDMO

Thanks Luke,

     Had already decided to cut mine to that length if no one gave a different answer.  That's good enough for me.

EDMO

If you are sourcing the tanks local, why not give that same welding supplier a chance on the regulators, hoses, torches and tips as well?  They may even have a small portable set that will suite you as well or better.

If you buy local (even at more cost) you will be far more likely to get tech help from them if/when you need it.

(I'm a fan of buying local when ever possible.)

Does anyone have any opinion about oxy acetylene setups for welding chromoly tubing? I'm just about ready to order the Meco Midget after reading about so many homebuilders using it to build planes. Here is a link:

https://www.tinmantech.com/html/meco_midget_torch.php

I've been borrowing my brother's full size setup, and it's kind of a pain when doing detail stuff on thin wall tubing. I'm thinking of buying some tanks locally, and getting the torch, hoses and regulators from tinman. A lot of people seem to think this is the best setup for this kind of work. Well, I guess TIG would be the best, but it's a little out of my budget 

Hey Ed, my digital calipers are at work, but I measured with my cheap sliding (no dial) calipers. They look like they are right at 2.125. This is the tubes on the fuselage. The previous builder did have wings mounted at one point. Not sure if that helps. I can't measure the inside of the spars because the wings are at the airport too.

Did you get the ultralight prop or the medium?

Can someone with a micrometer or calipers give me the total length of the little vertical wing bolt attach tubes on the fuselage? 

I have to shorten mine to get them into the spar.

A measurement of the inside of the spar inserts where the bolt goes thru would also be helpful.

My distance inside of the spar attach inserts measures 2.140 inches at the root end of the inserts.

Are these tubes a snug fit into the spars, or a loose fit?  Seems like on my old planes, these were loose fits.

Thanks,

EDMO

... the reinforcement I was talking about is in the spar about where the struts attach.

Hi Cropduster,

I had a look inside a spar and can't see anything other than the ends of the pop rivets that hold the strut attach bracket to the tube.