Activity Stream

can you post a picture of your lights, or the fixtures?

If it has rust, then it is steel - use aluminum oxide media on it for easiest cleaning - However I have seen play sand used, but you have to screen it first to get the rocks out. A large tarp can catch the media and you can reuse it. Primer Paint asap.

Aluminum sheet needs plastic beads to clean it.

Harbor Freight has a small self-contained blasting unit for $35 that I have been considering trying, as it would be easier to use than hooking up the big compressor to the pressure tank blaster - don't know how well it will work tho.

EDMO

Hi,

Do any of you see issue with using a sand blaster on an airframe.  I know I can run different media through it.  What is your suggestions.  I have lots of minor surface spots of rust on my airframe. 

Thanks

I checked Spruce and their set has flash tubes - This set must be old - well, I got it used about 20 years ago. Waiting for some other "oldtimer" to remember the strobe bulbs with filaments in it!

The power paks for them may all be in the junkyard?

EDMO

Is it the plate style or the aluminum style?

Like this?

Or like this?

ok, I got ya now.

forgot to put my number 915-861-9538

warp drive hub old style triangle no blade's hub in good shape.make me an offer.

The conversion kit had you cut a round hole in the housing behind the position lights, and a round, clear, magnifier lense dome covered the socket and bulb for the strobe light was put into the hole - Your Grimes position lights stayed the same.

They still sell a kit in Spruce - but not sure if same.

EdMO

I'm not following you. I just have normal grimes position lights, but this is a direct replacement bulb.. I guess I'm lost.

Thanks Leni,

But - the strobe bulbs are a lot smaller than the position light bulbs - don't think there is any way they can interchange - I am thinking that these may be Grimes strobes?

EdMO

I got a set of led bulbs from ac spruce for my old grimes navigation lights. Pretty bright. They are 35 bucks each but if you turn them on, turn off then back on within 3 seconds they strobe. No power supply needed other than your battery and are a direct replacement bulb.

Been a long time since I looked at them, but I have a set of wingtip position lights which someone converted to strobes probably using a conversion kit.

The bulb is not a flash tube, but is a small bulb, and if I remember right, has a flat looking filament.

I never had the power supply for these, and now am wondering what brand and what type of power supply could be used for them.

If anyone has knowledge of what they might be, or the power pak for them, I would like to know.

I might be able to dig them out and post a photo.

What markings might be on the bulbs, if any?

Thanks,

EDMO

Most of the 500 series thread-sealers are the best I have found, and you can use them on aluminum too.

The only difference between my 545 and the 567/579 is the temperature rating for the last two is a little higher, like 400F and 300F.

The low-numbered sealers 500-501, etc, are anerobic, and only used on metal to metal fittings. The mid to high 500 numbers can be used for any material.

EDMO

Fittings into this polyethylene tanks leaking has been a common gripe for the Kitfoxers for ever, it seams.

Phuque it. We started on an aluminum tank today. That won't leak from the fittings. Period.

Leni,

glad to hear it is the header tank fittings leaking, and not the tanks - at least it can be fixed. Got to look at specs on Loctite 567 or 579 - might be better with plastic than my 545

EDMO

I would go with bungies like the Highlander Gear.

I will order some up for the next time I have the bird in the garage.

Ed, the header tanks are a real bitch to seal up the threaded connections.  I used fuel lube the first time, then a few other things.  The permatex gasket sealant seems to be doing the trick this time.  I had to replace most of the fittings with various abortions to get the treads to seal.  home made fender washers, rubber gaskets etc.  Some get lucky and they work good, others have dealt with drips and weeps.

 

Loctite 567.  Will make you one happy camper.

it is hard to get the ideal position.  my extended baggage is made out of aluminum so I have a good ground plane.  I think a poor ground plane would be better than a busted off external antenna laying in the dirt under your balled up aircraft.

Wow thats not bad.  When I built my gear, I elected to have it powder coated.  150 bones.  Guy said that the cost was to fire the burner in the oven more than the size of the workpiece sprayed.    

Ed, the header tanks are a real bitch to seal up the threaded connections.  I used fuel lube the first time, then a few other things.  The permatex gasket sealant seems to be doing the trick this time.  I had to replace most of the fittings with various abortions to get the treads to seal.  home made fender washers, rubber gaskets etc.  Some get lucky and they work good, others have dealt with drips and weeps.

Pointing up or down has no effect. The tubing however does. One thing to be mindful of is the reflected power from the tubing to the antenna. The vast majority of people do not consider this reflected power. Also, in fabric covered ships we want a effective ground plane constructed of a metalic material. Thin aluminum will suffice, even foil will work. The material must provide continuity to the "ground" side of the antenna to be effective. The manual I posted calls out a 36" circular coverage. No matter how you dice it, "ideal" is difficult to achive in our chosen vehicles.

Where did your tank leak? I haven't heard of the headers leaking.

EDMO

Yes. Kitfox does show the header tank behind the seat bulkhead. That's where my baggage are is now, so it's going in front of the bulkhead directly behind the seat pan. It's really designed to fit there anyway. We did a pressure test on the tank and lines, and just like everyone else the tank leaks. So I'm going to use it as a pattern and build an aluminum one.

The cutouts easily took half the weight away from the side panels. I'll weigh it when finished.