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  1. dholly


    No alcohol! Acrylic sheet is affected, in varying degrees, by benzene, toluene, carbon tetrachloride, ethyl and methyl alcohol, lacquer thinners, ethers, ketones and esters. Do Not Use: Window cleaning sprays, kitchen cleansers, gasoline, benzene or carbon tetrachloride.

    One acrylic sheet manufacturer says:

    If the adhesive has hardened, moistening the paper with aliphatic naphtha, hexane, or kerosene will help soften it. Never use a knife or scraper to remove masking.

    Personally, I would try low heat from wifey's hair dryer first. Once you get the edge lifted, keeping the heat on the contact area usually works good. Otherwise, soaking the paper with any light oil (cooking oil and even mayonnaise) and covering with plastic wrap so it doesn't dry might work. Downside is it will be much harder to peel in one piece. What about a citrus based cleaner? I also read Goo-Gone works good.

    Or getting more aggressive, I've read mineral spirits and turpentine works without damaging the plexi. Some say acetone (and, yes, I know that is not recommended based on compatibility charts), but seems to work without crazing if you don't let set on the sheet long (less than 10mins).

    From PracticalMachinist forums: [EDIT] Warning: Please disregard the following quote. DO NOT use Acetone (see post #26 in this thread)

    Acetone in a spray bottle will work better than you could possibly imagine.

    I had a ton (probably literally) of old acrylic that the paper was so stuck to that it peeled off like a tamper-proof sticker.

    Spray bottle full of acetone, get a little edge lifted up... spray the acetone and the glue instantly releases 100%, comes off as if there was no glue at all and leaves no residue. You just have to occasionally keep spraying as you peel the backing off to keep a "wet edge" where the paper meets the plastic as you peel it off.

    Don't let the acetone sit on the acrylic too long, but I never had any problems with staining.

    Plexiglass-Chemical-Resistance-Properties.pdf

  2. EDMO


    Is this the wings that have already been painted?

    Are you going to use reinforcement tape before stitching, and then cover with finish tapes?

    If so, I think you need to cover leading edge of finishing tapes with new leading edge tape also.

    Looks like some touch-up painting to be done too?

    EDMO

  3. KFfan


    Great story - and I sure don't want to take anything away from it - BUT, why don't my old eyes see the same exact number painted on the tail in the two photos? - everything else, including the damage, looks the same.

    Could the bottom photo possibly have come from a movie?

    EDMo

    Numbers? What numbers? LOL

  4. EDMO


    We went by AC43-13 for stitching the Piper, which calls for 2 1/2" between stitches in the prop blast area, and 3 1/2" between stitches on the rest of the wing. I understand that to be on the top of the wing where stitching actually keeps the fabric from ballooning up from the rib. The first stitch should be 1/2 of the proper stitch distance from the leading edge on top.

    Quote from AC43-13: "The prop blast area is considered the diameter of the prop plus one rib." Please don't ask me how to figure this out. (prop diameter each side? or 1/2 for each side? or measure from middle of fuselage??)

    I guess experimentals don't have to go by AC43-13, but it is good practice.

    We laid out our hole patterns on the top, and then took that number of holes on one side of the rib and divided the chord of the bottom by that number, getting the dimensions between holes on the bottom. (maybe number of spaces works too?)

    Making a template for top and bottom makes the rest of the holes go in faster.

    Hope this is clear.

    EDMO

  5. LSaupe


    Getting ready to rib stitch and see that I just cant lay out the same distances on the top vice the bottom (as I had hoped), due to the significant differences in arc length.  How do you guys typically hadle this?  At first pass I am thinking about laying out the bottom and them thansferring the top holes by putting a pointer through the bottom holes with a device to keep the pointer normal to the bottom surface.

     

    How is this typically accomplished?

  6. C5Engineer


    Mine weighed 533 with the E box and 2 radiators. I think we went way overkill on silver on the wings too. The original weight and balance with no electrical system and 532 was 484. I suspect mine is approaching 550 now with the upgrades I've done. It has 2 14 gallon wing tanks, no interior, sling seat, and no lighting at all besides the strobe on the tail.

    Dean told me every pound is 6 ft per second climb.

  7. EDMO


    The Bandit weighs 480 with shorter wings and smaller tail, and sparce interior - 500 is a good goal, but think somewhere between 500 and 600 is more realistic with 2 wing tanks - your big landing gear and some large tires will add some weight too.

    EDMO

    My bird is getting too heavy - Got to try to lighten it - Just don't know how yet!

    Would like to be under 850, but 800 would be better.

    May have to fly with one seat and no doors or turtledeck (Open cockpit?)

    ED

  8. 1avidflyer


    My Avid B weighed 445 with a pull start and 532. Header tank behind the instrument panel, and two 5 gallon aluminum wing tanks. Don't put anything extra on the plane unless it passes this test. Hold the part above the ground. Let it go. If it doesn't hit the ground, put it on.... Easier said than done I know. Lighter plane performs better. That little Avid B would go from standing still to 500' AGL faster than a Super Cub with 150 HP when we timed them both. Jim Chuk

    PS I have a 1200 lb BRS that I'm not going to use.....

  9. C5Engineer


    This video is by my good friend Matt. That's a 47 Stinson 108-3 with a 220 Franklin and 29" bushwheels. Unfortunately it met its demise on Mile High in 2012. New owner is slowly rebuilding it though. This video was during our 2011 Johnson Creek trip. Cool find! Year prior Larry. I got there a day late and had to camp on the other side of the strip. After several days the walk to the showers and fire pits and the social part of the Flyin gets long when you are over there. In 12 I had a front row spot.

  10. EDMO


    They sure look the same to me...

    Could be the same? Looked like subtle differences - could be curvature of VS in first photo?

    Amazing Story - Thought maybe a movie had been made about it - Like the one where the belly gunner was trapped and if they landed with the gear up he would have been killed.....

    EDMO

  11. TJay


    Im hoping to keep mine at 500lbs thats my goal with every option and 582 wish me luck, might have to raise that if I decide to stick a brs in the baggage area for phase 1 test flying

  12. TJay


    I am just sitting here dreaming about flying in Idaho, watching youtube videos and I think I see Joey's plane in this one. Its on the right hand side of the runway you start to see it at 2 minutes and 30 seconds to 2 minutes and 36 seconds, how cool is that!

    1 person likes this
  13. EDMO


    Me and the missus like to enjoy the .22 rifles....but have a real hard time getting .22LR. This has been going on for 3 years now. Nothing wrong with some target shooting competition....but cant even enjoy that. Last gun show in town sold out most all ammo by Saturday....anything in bulk was gone. Have heard that Wallyworld had .22 but you had to be there when the truck came in.....limit 3 boxes...of anything.

    Must be a local rule - although I was told that .22LR was scarce here too - Wally just sold me 10 boxes of .223 - Wally sells handguns in Alaska, but not in Missouri - For a while, they did not even sell long guns here.

    When I went thru Canada in '95, they let me have 5000 rounds of ammo - when I came back in 2007, the limit was 200 rounds - rules change like the weather!

    EDMO