Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Fish Creek Lake Lodge flyin #1 2011   

    Beautiful scenery, Leni. I will get up there, someday...
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  2. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic leading edge   

    Much of the VNe numbers for the early Kitfoxes were in regard to the windshield. The thinner windshield material would deform at high speeds...
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  3. akflyer added a post in a topic leading edge   


    akflyerbob's has the leading edge on it. I am not sure what differences it makes but his flys AWESOME. I think alot of the VNE change is stitched ribs versus just glued on covering. I think part of the issue was possible fabric separation without the rib stitching.


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  4. akflyer added a topic in Local Fly in's   

    Fish Creek Lake Lodge flyin #1 2011
    A few pics of the flying and scenery around the lodge! Thanks for coming up Randy, I had a blast. Having a day of flying with Mt. Mckinley and Foraker for a back drop is nothing short of breathtaking. We really are spoiled to be flying in God's Country.










    • 13 replies
    • 3,805 views


  5. akflyer added a post in a topic 582 carb slide stuck open   

    Doug, this sucks! I wonder if the inner liner was cut through on the cable. The zip tie moving should not make the cable hang up unless it is frayed inside. Mine is routed kind of like yours, so when i get home I am going to check out my cables. It sucks that it cost you the bird, but I hope your lesson can help others out and maybe save someone else from ruining a perfectly good pair of shorts! Oh, and a good plane too




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  6. dholly added a post in a topic 582 carb slide stuck open   

    Well here's the deal. I had what I thought might have been a stuck slide. I pulled the throttle back and nothing much happened. I tried to cycle the throttle. Unfortunately, that only left me with a wide open throttle. I ultimately had to shut the runaway train down with the ignition key. In a simple post event field check, I found the front carb felt 'sticky'. By that I mean when pulling up on the throttle cables at the top of the carbs, rear was free but not the front. I didn't do any further in-depth engine checks until yesterday, in part due to the plane being at the A&P's for a damage appraisal (which, from my new sig line courtesy of fearless leader Leni, you can correctly surmise went rather poorly).

    So yesterday I opened up the carbs and found nothing unusual looking at all. The cup was sliding fine in the front carb and the disconnected throttle cable worked smoothly as it should. Return spring pulled throttle closed fine. Basically, I was kind of stumped and at a loss as to what the heck happened. Not to the point of questioning whether some type of malfunction had actually happened, it most assuredly did, but I started wondering if I was going to have resolution. I HATE when stuff happens and you can't pinpoint the source, leaves that lingering doubt in the back of your mind about mechanical reliability.

    As I discounted any problem with the carbs themselves I started working my way back from the carbs along the cables to the throttle in the cabin. Again, no binding or friction problems at all with the carb ends disconnected, but something did catch my attention. When I bought the plane, both throttle cables were zip-tied to the engine mount between the firewall and carbs. I didn't think that was unusual, as I've always mechanically secured cable sheaths multiple times to keep internal cable function in the event one clamp fails. What I did notice was that it was very slightly loose and I could move it up or down along the engine mount tube. Here's some pics.



    You can see from the black overspray on the engine mount tubing just how far along the tube I could slide the zip tie. When I first noticed it, the zip tie was at the bottom most position. When I reattached the throttle cables at the carb end and operated the throttle, moving the zip tie up and down the tube to various positions it became clear it impacted the function of the cable ends at the carbs. As I understand it, the zip tie somehow slid/vibrated down the tubing which had the effect of shortening the working length of the cables. This had little effect on the rear carb closest to the firewall, but put just enough stress on the cable path into the front carb to create friction and preclude the carb slide from closing. With the zip tie removed, all throttle and carb operation function perfectly. An expensive lesson for me, don't you make the same mistake.

    Regards,
    Killer
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  7. akflyerbob added a post in a topic Avid Catalina   

    chosack

    Glad to see you aboard.
    I talked to you several times about a paper problem I was having, and thank
    you for the help with that.
    I haven't worked on the Catalina, actually Avid Amphibian, or the Mod III
    for most of this year. I'm still short a few pecies I didn't get with the buy.
    But it is all up in silver, all metal epoxy primed, ready for top coat.
    The same problem most people have, have to make a living to support habbits.
    Bob
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  8. egp8111 added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    leading edge
    I'm getting close to finishing up my KF model III rebuild. In the process of rebuilding the wings I added the molded leading edge available from Kitfox.(same one used on the model IV) I was wondering if anyone has any experience with how the earlier wing performs with the cleaner leading edge.

    Also anyone have any ideas why the later Avids with the undercambered airfoils have a higher VNE the the KF's ? The KF's only changed after the model IV with the new airfoil. The VNE on the model III KF's didnt change from the model II even with the higher gross weights and aileron balancing. Were there additional changes to the Avid that allowed a higher VNE or did the airfoil change ?

    thanks,

    E.G.
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  9. dholly added a post in a topic MK-IV SN: Location?   

    I owned Mk-IV s/n 1127D and it was not stamped on the frame. It was only noted in the original paperwork from Avid. If you have no paper history, Brett at Airdale Sportplane and Supply has sales record by s/n and may be able to help verify if your frame matches the s/n a seller claims.
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  10. Dave B added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    MK-IV SN: Location?
    Where is the kit sn: located on the airframe? Avid MK-IV Tri-gear, 1993 kit. sn:11xxD
    Thanks,
    Dave
    • 1 reply
    • 603 views


  11. OKAvidFlyer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    CPS Rotax Course
    Hey Leni,

    I just got registered and got my tickets arranged for the Feb 16-17 Two stroke Rotax class at CPS. You still thinking about going? When you gonna get that lazy butt of yours back to the slope... we got oil to flow!!
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  12. akflyer added a post in a topic Leni, change my tag.   

    WTF WTF WTF.. You ok

    Randy just flew off into the sunset and left me here at the lodge to drink by myself! I will get right on the name change Mr. Give us a few more details and the holy shit I think I just soilded myself pics...

    < Sailor Jerry's n Coke chug for the fallen kitfox
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  13. chosack added a post in a topic Avid Catalina   

    I just heard of this site from a fellow EEAer and registered today. I am the original owner and builder of the Avid Amphib, N84CH. It was my first homebuilt project and have since done 3 more. It's sad to see how it went downhill from when I sold it as a flying aircraft but I'm glad it's getting TLC and a rebuild from it's new owner. I spent a lot time with that plane fishing in the Mat-Su valley and Talkeetna Mtns. I just looked and found the original construction photos in my garage.
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  14. dholly added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   


    Yes, the Caswell is a 2-part phenol novolac epoxy based sealer.
    NO on the two coats (which is exactly what most folks are tempted to do, see above ).
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  15. OKAvidFlyer added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   


    Doug- I assume that by "2-Part" you mean the mix such as Caswell sells: http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

    Would you guys recommend two coats?
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  16. dholly added a post in a topic Leni, change my tag.   

    Ha, payback is a bitch!

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  17. dholly added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   

    I have no experience with either, but the POR 15 MSDS says "Material Incompatibility: Strong Oxidizing Agents, alcohols, halogenated hydrocarbons, acids, alkali, alkali metals, water". The KBS MSDS says similar, plus adds "not to be used in aircraft". Regardless, both are a single component tank sealant formulation.

    In our F/G tanks, I would highly recommend using a 2-part phenol novolac epoxy based product. While most one and two-part products are listed as resistant to long term exposure to gasoline, diesel fuel, and additives like methanol and ethanol, phenol novolac appears to be considerably moreso. It is also more thixotropic, which means it 'hangs' on the tank walls during the coating process. This gives a thicker overall coating and is preferable to attempting to apply a single thick, or multiple coatings of the much thinner consistency one part polymer based products (which is exactly what most folks are tempted to do). If a one part polymer sealant pools or puddles at all due to improper, excessive or multiple applications, it can not cure. Oxygen in the air slowly depletes the free radicals in the polymer that are necessary to turn the liquid polymer into a hard permanent surface. Thick material skins over and prevents the deeper material from curing. Not as critical with the catalyst hardener of 2-part phenol novolac epoxy based products. These also retain some resilience to flex, seems like a requirement for use in a wing tank I should think.

    Again, I would not use any of the acid strippers or fancy cleaners packaged with metal fuel tank sealant products that are designed to remove oxides from metal gas tanks. Any rust stripper that leaves a zinc phosphate coating as a metal tank preparation for the sealer is unnecessary for F/G tank prep, and may actually hinder rather than help proper adherence to F/G. The reality is, several products have been used and reported successful to some degree. Not a product pusher for any particular brand of sealant however, if I were to slosh my wing tanks (and I won't), because it is such a P.I.T.A. and critical job I would definitely take into consideration the foregoing info.



    [edit] You're gonna need all your buddies and a good bit of beer to rotate that wing, lol. I would simply remove the outlet and quick drain fittings from the tank prior to sloshing, tape over the openings, then chase the threads with a tap when dry. I used Permatex Tack & Sealant #9AR on my fuel fittings at reassembly with no problems after several months.

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  18. OKAvidFlyer added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   

    Thanks everyone for the great info. I assume that since the tank is still in the wing that it is sufficient to have two people tank the wing and rotate it to insure that the tank is sufficiently coated? Also what do you do about stopping the fuel line port? I see from the instructions at Caswell that you should blow air in the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. Any other advice you guys have for getting this done right the first time?
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  19. Trackwelder added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   


    Another product thatbike builders have used is POR 15; kreem tends to dissolve with alcohol the POR 15 HOLDS UP WELL, the trouble would be in making sure you get the tank properly turned so that everything is coated.
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  20. dholly added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   

    There are several tank sealant formulations available but I firmly believe the phenol novolac epoxy based products are superior for chemical (alcohol) resistance and adherence to polyester resin F/G tanks. The cleaners and rust treatment meant for metal fuel tanks are of little value when doing a F/G tank, IMHO. All you need really is a very thorough AV or MOGAS rinse* (several times). Personally, I would add a few handfuls of nuts or drywall screws during the early cleaning agitations to knock loose any bits of adhesive as Avid tended to 'glop' on way more than necessary. It is common to find chunks in the tanks after being put into service (IMHO, finger strainers are a must!). This also helps give the inside surface more 'tooth' for the sealant to adhere to which will reduce the potential for separation and sheeting (which will most certainly ruin your day as your fuel system plugs with the flaking crap). I also have heard that one final rinse with acetone or M.E.K. to slightly soften the F/G just prior to sealant application may help product adherence as well.

    *Some folks do all rinsing with acetone, however, I've attached the recent SB#60 from Kitfox Aircraft regarding wing tank prep when sloshing with sealant. Note they do NOT recommend using acetone rinsing on the earlier F/G tanks constructed with polyester resin (vs. newer tanks constructed with vinyl ester resin). Your Avid tanks were constructed with polyester resin so take that into consideration when sealing.
    sb60.pdf
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  21. ybfcsqs added a post in a topic Original Type Avid Model A   


    Bobby,
    Don't have any specific info but have seen some of the big gear tricycle geared machines on YOUTUBE. You might be able to get some info from someones profile there. Good luck ... Jim
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  22. Russ. added a post in a topic Leni, change my tag.   

    Who has the brown shorts now? Sorry to hear about the incident. Russ.
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  23. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Parting out KF-III   

    Doug-- Sorry to hear this! I am glad to see you are okay, though. (You are, right?)
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  24. efil 01 added a post in a topic Wing Tank Repair   

    salut

    you can also use this : http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Auto-Fuel-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_34.html

    as there is a cleaning product included in the kit, it can be good for a used tank. but you must care of fuel level sight, car tank sealers are they transparent?

    personnaly i plan to use it for prevent my unused fiberglass tank
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  25. dholly added a post in a topic Original Type Avid Model A   

    There's an Avid A taildragger on a Craigslist near me. link
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