Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. akflyer added a post in a topic overheating... again   

    My brother did an overflight today and the bird is sitting pretty just where I left it. She survived the wind storms just fine! Another bit of good news. There is a lake about 2 miles away with a runway next to it and a 4 wheeler trail from that lake to the pond that I am on so it should be a pretty easy hike in to make repairs and hopefully get it out of there in a couple weeks! Neither of us saw the trail as it was grown over, but with the changing seasons and the leaves falling off it opened up and he saw it today.


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  2. bowfish added a post in a topic My old flying machine   

    Years ago I was fortunate enough to have a friend whom got me interested in PCCs, purchased one and it was a blast except for limited days of flying.
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  3. akflyer added a post in a topic My old flying machine   

    Sweet pics! Anything that gets a guy in the air is of great interest to me! I was going to buy a PPC at one time, but with the normal winds we have it would have been flying backwards 80% of the time


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  4. akflyer added a post in a topic Sandblast, wire brush, or soda blast ????   

    How does the soda do on powder coat? When I did mine, the powder coat was a real bitch to blast off. I ended up using a wire wheel to knock it down, then blasted over that to give me a good anchor profile.

    Sounds like a kick ass car restoration project, post up some pics! Most guys on here are into more than just airplanes so we like to see pictures of all the toys


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  5. John_L_Seagull added a post in a topic Sandblast, wire brush, or soda blast ????   

    I've used Soda blasting quite a bit over the years

    Soda blasting can be done dry or wet
    It is the best "None abrasive" way of blasting anything,
    to remove paint, corrosion, biological contaminants, oil, grease, carbon, and many other coatings

    Soda Blasting uses compressed air to propel the media onto the area to be cleaned.
    When the media comes in contact with the contaminant on the substrate,
    the sodium bicarbonate particles explode.
    The resulting release of energy disrupts the contaminate surface leaving the substrate completely unaffected

    Other processes,
    such as sand blasting,
    damage the underlying surfaces.
    They tend to cause “oil-canning†which is a destructive warping or bending of the metal substrates
    it also cause heat/friction which warps metal and steel

    Soda blasting usually includes having to use vinegar and water to clean up the extra soda bicarbonate up
    it chemically reacts with the soda

    Then the part or parts need to be heated up,to evaporate the water so no rust will form on the cleaned up parts

    I've soda blasted steel and aluminum,rubber,grease etc.
    it will clean up grease,make old rubber moldings look new
    It will free up seized rusted parts,bushings etc.

    If used accordingly it is an impressive medium for blasting

    Used in Corvette shops for blasting
    it can blast of each layer of paint and or primer....one layer at a time

    It is used to remove spray paint graffiti
    it can remove spray paint from Vinyl siding on a house without damaging the vinyl siding

    IMHO
    It is the least destructive way of blasting anything,
    and is very versatile in that it can blast steel,aluminum,glass,rubber and grease

    It is however,very expensive to use
    My last project used about 100 dollars and hour worth of Soda
    and I spent almost 5 thousand dollars on just the soda itself

    May sound expensive,
    but on a car worth almost a hundred grand when finished... it is a small price to pay
    and saves so much work compared to using sand or any other way of cleaning parts for paint
    even sandblasting causes major work getting things ready for paint after blasting

    My last project was a 1961 Thunderbird ,retractable rag-top
    The ragtop assembly was totally seized with rust(numerous bushings etc.)
    soda blasting freed up the parts like brand new(the top now folds and opens perfectly and is ready for paint)

    The front end was dropped out and soda blasted,grease and all
    the front end components were perfectly clean and paint and "Grease" free
    ready for primer and paint,other than replacing a few parts of coarse on the front end

    The whole frame and body was separated,61 TBird is uni-body
    frame and body was soda blasted

    I've blasted with all kinds of sand,glass beads,crushed walnut shells(excellent on aluminum)
    and soda blasting can replace all medium mentioned above

    Other than it's cost for the actual Soda to blast with
    it is by far the best blasting material out there

    Soda blasting is definitely worth looking into

    I plan on re-skinning an Avid Mark IV this coming winter,
    and I will be soda blasting the entire frame and wings for paint before reskinning

    It will get into ever nook and cranny there is,
    and the vinegar will clean it out from ever nook and cranny
    once the vinegar does not chemically react with the soda no longer it is ready to wash thoroughly and dry with heat
    Then it's basically ready for etching and primer

    I'm speaking from over 30 years of restoring experience, using ever blasting medium known
    but of coarse... this is all just IMHO

    ps:
    Thought it might be worth mentioning...
    Dry Ice blasting is suppose to be even better than Soda blasting
    But I have no experience using dry ice to blast with so never mentioned it
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  6. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    My old flying machine
    Came across some pictures of my old Powered parachute that I owned for 8 years and put nearly 600 hrs in. Sure had a blast in that thing. Take off and sit back and relax and enjoy the ride at 26mph. You haven't flown until you've done a touch and go on the top of a big rigs trailer or a bail of hay!!






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  7. EDMO added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   

    Have you considered cutting the flange part wide enough so you could move it forward and rivet it back to the cowling? Underneath & blended?
    ED in MO
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  8. High Country added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   

    I originally had the nose tank so I don't currently have a dash to meet up to so that's no problem I can just make one that goes where ever it needs to. just want to know if I will be introducing any issues by not having the cowl fair up as it transitions into the lexan, I can't see any reason not to other than maybe keeping it clean? I have seen other cowls like this with just a hole hadn't noticed the cover on your cowling I think I will do the same, thanks for the hint.

    -Robert-
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  9. akflyer added a post in a topic Battery for ea81   

    The PC 680 should do fine for your suby. It stars 032 and 0470 engines all day long up here in the winter. Most of the guys that have gone to the firewall mounted batteries in C-180/185 use the 680 as well as 90% of the cub drivers I know up here.

    I flew a PA-12 last week that has a 680 in it and did not have any issues starting it.


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  10. EDMO added a post in a topic Battery for ea81   


    I was hoping and waiting to read what some more knowledeable person might write, like SUBERAVID in Alaska - Since none have written so far, my best guess is the Odessey 680 or larger - depends on where you are putting it, and how much weight you want too.
    Look up this one if you dont get a better answer.
    ED in MO (Winter Soob flyer too, Someday - above 32F or 0C)
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  11. akflyer added a post in a topic Cowl to windshiled fit problem   

    If it is like mine, if you cut the flare off it wont cover up where the dash and the windshield meet. I too have the rubber moulding around mine to keep the rain and crap out. On mine, they must have had the same issues as you because they cut out a hole in the front of the cowling for the front spark plugs and make a small aluminum fairing that they riveted in place to cover the hole. I will look and see if I have any pics of it.

    Here is the link to mine showing the bump in the front of the cowling

    my cowling

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  12. High Country added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Cowl to windshiled fit problem
    So i checked the cowl with the spinner. No good the build manual says the cowl should sit 3/8" above the spinner. As it was from either the original builder or where the factory drilled the holes it sat about 1" below the spinner. To fix this I Hysoled the holes and sanded smooth then started over, this cowl is poorly designed to say the least. I was able to get it to be just barley above the spinner but not the 3/8" called for in the book it looks good though so I settled on it. Problem now is in order to raise it up this much it now interferes with the front spark plug on the bottom- solution cut a hole for the spark plug clearance not too much of a problem. Next problem now is its too close to the windshield and I have to cut it back to make room for the windshield to go into. I'm thinking just cut it back and put some sort of rubber molding around the edge where it contacts the lexan. Is this enough or do I need to do some fiberglass work and make it fair back up like it was. I have never worked with fiberglass before and was hoping not to have to do too much work to this cowling as I would like to replace it at some point anyways. I took a pic of the problem but forgot to upload it off of the camera so I'm borrowing Joey's pic just so you can see what type of cowl I'm working with. Second pic is one I found that used rubber molding on the edge sorta what I have in mind only without the fiared up part. What do you guys think?


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  13. marshawk added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Battery for ea81
    I was wondering what size ( cranking amps) and type of battery you guys would recommend for my avid with the the ea81 soob in it,probaly be flying in some -20 C temps in the winter time, thanks for any input.
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  14. EDMO added a post in a topic radiator   

    Randy,
    My books on using the Chevy AC condensors says to have AN 3/4 inch fittings welded to them and use AN fittings on hoses.
    I dont see why you couldnt use push-on fittings instead. That would be cheaper, and probably lighter yet.
    Used condensors At $5 each at junkyards - Lighter and makes $ense. Condensors cannot be repaired for AC use because of the extremely high pressures in the AC system.
    I think that Reinhard used these on the first Stratus engines.
    ED in MO
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  15. EDMO added a post in a topic fuel pump   

    SuberAvid Randy, just wrote in another post that both of his are a Facet - He has the Stratus with dual bing carbs. About 4 pounds of pressure.
    One important thing he said was that they had check-valves in them to let the fuel flow from the tank if the pump is not working and not backwards from the engine or other pump.
    ED in MO
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  16. EDMO added a post in a topic O-100 engine on Ebay   

    I am looking for a set of cheek rads for my Soob. Sorry, this belly rad is about 1/2 size of my Rabbit rad.
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  17. akflyer added a post in a topic O-100 engine on Ebay   



    Ed,

    What radiator do you have for it? I am looking for a set of MK IV radiators so I can get rid of my belly mount radiator. I want to put a big cargo pod under there instead of the radiator... of course, this is assuing that the wind storm does take care of the plane for me in the next few days..


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  18. lakertreetopflyer added a post in a topic radiator   


    When i got it he said he was having some troubles with temps with the cheeek radiators only.He put a small rad under the belly(his buddy handbuilt areally cool fiberglass shroud)

    Brian
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic O-100 engine on Ebay   

    Think I already have one - Got a 532 with 80 hours, gauges, rad, mount, everything, and cant get an offer.
    Need to get a bigger boat for the weight of it.
    ED in MO
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  20. EDMO added a post in a topic radiator   

    I would be calling the seller to try and get some answers. Have never seen this on any plane or in any manual.
    ED in MO
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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic ? for Dholly   

    All it says is Aerobat - no model listed - no weights. Only 4 pages. No clue if there was an Aerobat Magnum - but something may be in the builders manual - I havent looked for it.
    ED
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  22. dholly added a post in a topic ? for Dholly   

    This for a Aerobat version of the Magnum? Or Avid Flyer? I have a copy of the factory supplied 'Avid Aerobat Manual' for Avid Flyer. Not dated but I believe this was distributed with the C model Aerobat. It gives entry speeds and basic techniques for how to perform Loops, Barrel Rolls, Snap Rolls, Wing Overs and Spins.
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  23. lakertreetopflyer added a post in a topic radiator   



    This is the way it was set up when I got it.............have not flown it yet.Just everything that is there up to tiptop
    shape

    Brian
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  24. larr added a post in a topic O-100 engine on Ebay   

    RUN! unless you want a boat anchor
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  25. EDMO added a post in a topic fuel shutoffs   

    Thanks for the pump info. There are several Facet pumps in Spruce - I have the number of the one Dave complained about, and there is a larger, round one that has several check-valve options too.
    Do the tiny holes work - Dont have a clue - just guessing - Maybe Mr. Piper thought so? Probably wont put them on mine, but cant see that they hurt anything.
    ED in MO
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