Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. BryceKat added a post in a topic Banjo Bolts   

    Hey Dimi3! Thanks, all the reference manuals I see our showing It's tapered pipe thread. Did you use the 12 mm banjo fitting? Thanks, Bryce
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  2. wolves200 added a post in a topic Banjo Bolts   

    Hey Bryce:
     
    I believe is a M12 banjo bolt
     
    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40|R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=m12+banjo+bolt&rt=nc&_dmd=2
     
    Regards
    Dimi3
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  3. BryceKat added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Banjo Bolts
    Hey Guys,
    Where can I get a banjo bolt to replace the top nipple for the rotary valve oiler? It's a 1/4-18 npt thread. Thanks, Bryce
    • 12 replies
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  4. cliff added a post in a topic Phase I flight testing   

    Congrats on your accomplishment.  I too, recently got an old Avid back in the air and share your enthusiasm  I am very interested to know the answers that birddog486 asked. I have a project mark 4 with speed wings that I have an airdale extension kit for and your experience will help me decide how much wash out to rebuild into my wings. Have fun and be safe.
     
     Thanks Cliff
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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    Thanks for the rivet tips Leni - I can use that soon.
          What thickness of 6061 would you recommend for the fairings?  Weight vs Dents / Warping....
    I thought about just a couple of blind rivets at top and bottom (maybe center?) of struts and seal the rest with epoxy?
    EDMo
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  6. TreeTopAirways added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    Mark,
    I sent the pictures to your email.
     
    Robin
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  7. akflyer added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    I was thinking squeezed rivets not pulled.. for something like that all you need to do is get a pair of vice grips, file the teeth off, use an over size drill bit to put a little dimple in the faces then use a couple practice rivets to get the screw set right so you get a perfect squeeze on them. 
     
    When John Stoner was building the wings here for Dakota Cub there were a few rivets he had to do that you couldn't get the bench mounted squeezer on so he made a couple tools as described above.. one made from needle nose worked great to get into small places that you couldn't get any other commercially available tool I have seen into.
     
    There are lots of sealers and epoxies you can use to join the trailing edges, but I don't like relying on only glue on something like that.. a good strip of gorilla tape around the trailing edge, but not glue
     

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  8. Guest added a post in a topic Avid / Kitfox Accident Causes and Rates   

    Here's my engine outs.
     
     First engine out was in my MKIV. Was just finishing up after a maintenance engine swap. I had two 582's and would just swap when heavy maintenance was scheduled. A pilot friend came over and asked if he could help. I asked him to finish up the plugs and safety wire the caps. He did a great job safety wiring the caps on while I finished up other stuff on the plane. I took it out for the first flight with the newly maintained engine. I landed at a favorite secret spot and was relishing in flying again. When I took off to head home, the engine got super noisy like a big fart and lost all power. I was 10 feet off the road I had taken off from. Fortunately it was long and straight and I uneventfully landed straight ahead. When I removed the cowl one of the plugs was hanging by the safety wire. It had come unscrewed. My friend had not tightened the plugs I had hand threaded in! Lesson: make sure tasks are CLEARLY communicated. I carry a small tool kit and was able to reinstall the blown plug, tighten all the others and fly home without further incident.
     
    Second engine out was in my Magnum. I had about 50 total hours on it, had just completed the FAA fly off period and had  a very successful flight to the Arlington Fly-in. I had developed enough confidence to take it on it's first water crossing. I flew from Tri Cities to Seattle in beautiful conditions and had just crossed between Paine Field and Whidbey  Island on my way to celebrate my then girlfriend's birthday at a music festival in Port Townsend. I had a GPS waypoint on the small grass airstrip on the south of Whidbey on my way to my destination at Port Townsend. My girlfriend at the time saw the little airstrip strip so I headed towards the next water crossing and Port Townsend. Just then the engine quit. I was at about 4500 feet. I remembered the airstrip and turned to spot it and began slowly circling down. Went through as much trouble shooting as I could while circling down, but could never get the engine to run above an idle and even then it would quit then start from prop turn, then quit, then start etc. Fortunately the grass airstrip was almost directly underneath when the engine quit and other than soiled pants, that landing too was uneventful. However my girlfriend eventually broke up with me as a result. The builder of my Magnum had installed fuel filters right at the tank outlets which I now know should NEVER be done under any circumstances because there is no pressure head to push fuel through and even a mildly clogged filter. Especially on a gravity fed system like the Magnum! I removed the filters and all was fine. The plane still had the header tanks and gascolator with screen which is all that is needed. I consider myself EXTREMELY lucky to have walked away from that one because Whidbey Island is all trees and is surrounded by water. I still marvel at that. I were a more religious manI would say God had a big hand in it!
     
    Those are the two engine outs I have had in 1750 hours of flying experimental planes. I wish it had been none. The Whidbey Island one in particular had the most profound effect on me of anything in my flying career including wrecking my Magnum in a bad landing. If you're already on the ground and in trouble chances are you will survive. If I had been one or two miles either side of that little airstrip when the engine quit in my Magnum. I might very well not be alive and would have taken someone with me. Very sobering.
     
    Chris
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  9. EDMO added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    I wonder if there is an epoxy that would bond the trailing edges of aluminum fairing together - I don't have a lot of hair left and it hurts to get it pulled out by the blind rivet tails - don't like blood in my hair either !  Guess if you put the rivets in from the bottom side and filed the stub it wouldn't be so bad.
    EdMo
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  10. TreeTopAirways added a post in a topic Control linkage   

    Akflyer,
    Yes, it is on top of the rod that connects the flaperons.
     
    High Country, thanks, parts are on order!
     
    ChrisB, do not have a picture at the moment.
     
    The part is broken right at the weld.
     
    Thanks All!
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  11. jjbaker added a post in a topic You Alaska guys watch out - you are pretty close to Russia....   

    Geeeze, I know Russia had some snow, but I've never heard of planes having snowplows installed.
     
    What a headline:
     
     
    French CEO dies in Moscow. Plane had snowplow installed? CEO was operated by drunk driver?
    Who the hell let that drunk driver into the emergency room? And who told him to operate on the French CEO?
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  12. Guest added a post in a topic Avid / Kitfox Accident Causes and Rates   

    I believe the reason for the high Avid 582 failure rate is that Avid ran the engine inverted whereas kitfox did not. Since oil and gas are mixed in two strokes it makes sense that they can be operated in any position. However, I discovered when tearing apart my 582's that there is an oil collection "funnel" built into the block that feeds the bearings when the engine is operated right side up. This collection funnel does not function with the engine operated inverted. If it wasn't necessary, or at least a good idea, I doubt Rotax would have built it into the engine. That said, I flew 1250 hours behind 582's in my MKIV and never had a bearing failure lead to a forced landing. However at around 660 hours on one engine I was doing a preflight and while pulling the prop through, I heard a funny rattle. I was nervous so took the engine out and tore it down. On the end of the crank with two bearings, one of the bearing's plastic ball retainer had broken apart and become all balled up between the two bearings. This left all of the balls in one of the bearings bunched together in the bottom of the bearing. When I hand turned the prop some of the balls had rolled up over the top and clinked down to hit the others. That was the noise I had heard. Once I made the discovery, I looked back and had thought the engine was making just a bit more noise recently, but wasn't sure. The balls in the bearing with the failed retainer still looked perfect, so I had caught it early. I think I was very lucky that time. Since there was a second bearing and the balls in the one without the retainer probably evened out at high speed, it might have run for a while or it may have grenaded on the next flight. 
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  13. marksires added a topic in Close Call's and dumb stunts   

    You Alaska guys watch out - you are pretty close to Russia....
    http://money.cnn.com/2014/10/20/investing/total-ceo-dies/index.html?iid=HP_River
     
    • 1 reply
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  14. akflyer added a post in a topic Over heating on Rotax 670   

    I talked to the shop that developed the clutch. (twisted metal racing in canuk land) and Tony told me that a lot of guys were using them in air boats running 150+ HP on them with no issues.  I had asked him becasue I figured on using it for my 800 conversion as it will be running around 120 HP (just loafing along for that engine) and he said it should be fine and last just as long.  The secret is to not doink around in the RPM range where it throws the pucks out ( dont play around with the throttle around the 2500 RPM range, just get the prop swinging then keep the RPM up to keep it fully engaged.  I love the clutch and I hate every start up and shut down I have been doing without it this summer.  It will be getting put back on when I get home this trip I hope.
     

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  15. akflyer added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    you get 4 full length pieces and a chunk of semi formed aluminum to screw onto the bases of the fairings where they come together.  The onlythink I dont like about them is they are heavy, but the speed and climb gains made them worth it.  They just snap in place at the trailing edge and you have to cut out for the jury struts.  All in all I think I had under an hour installing them.  You could do the same thing with thin aluminum and a few rivets on the trailing edge and it would be much lighter.
     

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  16. marksires added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    Page 56 of the online catalog - 'Speed Fairing Kit' - list $295.00 part # 69119.000
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  17. marksires added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    Ed,
    No problem.  And I hope the furnace is fixed, we are headed into the season where the furnace will be important.
     
    Mark
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  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    Mark,
          If you decide you want this part, you can come and get it or pay shipping - I will never use it.
    Doctor aptmt today - will try to post photo tomorrow.
    EdMo
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    Leni,
         How much were the fairings?  I cant find them in my KF catalog.  Were they shipped full length?
    About how thick is the material?
         I took the fabric and wood off of my KF2 struts and did not find any rust - the metal looked like it only had primer on it, along with some epoxy glue and some dope bleedthru.
    Thanx,
    EDMO
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  20. 959 added a post in a topic Over heating on Rotax 670   

    If I was to sell the tuned pipe I would want $2000 for it.
    I know this is not what you asked but that was one of the most challenging part of the project.
    This is from me who build my chassis car that runs in the 8's.
     
    I would do it again.
    The plane is very lively.
     
    Next I'm going t o put the  clutch in.
    But I will buy a couple of extra clutch lining because of the extra hp.
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  21. marksires added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    Ed,
    Whenever you get time, that would be helpful also.  I always figure too much information is better than not enough!
    Mark
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  22. marksires added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    Lenny,
    Thanks, that would be perfect.  I won't get to making the rigging until this winter anyway, so I don't need it tomorrow.  Sorry to hear Bob's down for a while.  I hope his surgery goes/went well, and recovery is faster than the quacks, er, docs, predict.
    Mark
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  23. akflyer added a post in a topic PLASTIC STRUT FAIRINGS?   

    mine were corroded really bad under the wood fairing as well.  If you live in a desert I dont think this is an issue, but if your on floats, or in a high humidity environment, I dont think the wood fairings are a stellar idea.  That is why I went to 1" .058" struts so I could snap the KF fairings over them and still have lots of rigidity.
     

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  24. akflyer added a post in a topic Avid C Float Rigging   

    akflyerbob has a set of the original rigging that I can get some measurements off of when I get home in two weeks.  I may be able to get my brother to run over there and pull some measurements for you as well.  Bob cant get around right now due to a hip surgery but I think we can get to the gear and get some numbers for you if no one else has a set handy.
     

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  25. akflyer added a post in a topic Control linkage   

    High country nailed it.. its not subject to rotation so I dont see why it needs to be welded.  Is this on the top of the rod that connects to the flaperons?
     

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