Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. EDMO added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    Thanks Larry,
          I don't know if my Grove wheels are tubeless or not - will have to take them apart someday - Well, any dummy can tell by the fill valve, and mine look like tubes, but still cant tell if the wheels could be tubeless - does that make sense?
         Guess I could take the number from the wheels and look it up, or ask Grove.
          I may also have a set of 850-6 tubes that I will probably never use...Got lots of 600 tires and tubes - that's my nose tire, and right now my mains too.
    EDMO
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  2. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    800-6 tubes are fine.  That's what I have on my yellow plane.
     
    I'm running the 21x800-6 tubeless on my Mangy Fox. 
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  3. EDMO added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    I find it hard to make good curves without a mold - flats are much easier - hope I helped with my 2c worth.
    EdMO
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  4. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Ed the B model cowl has a left and right side not a top and bottom. The seam you see is where the the two halves overlap and camlock together. Sorry my red lines were very roughly done just to see what peoples thoughts were on that concept.
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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Joey,
         If I was doing that job, I think I would raise my red lines up to try to get on a more flat vertical surface - then it would be easy to just drop the lower part whatever you need, and fill in the blank space with some flat-laid glass.
         but, "more than one way to skin a cat"
    EDMO
    Taking a 2nd look - you have a seam or some crack in the center of the lower part .....Maybe replace?
    Your red line don't clear the exhaust on one side enough..
    Do you really need that hole for the plug wires?  -  Maybe an access plate there?
    It's easy to 2nd guess - a little harder to make it right...
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  6. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    What do you guys think about cutting the cowling on the red lines and just making the whole cowl a little bit deeper. I'm almost wondering if that would be easier and cleaner than trying to build a bubble. Everything is pretty tight down there. Another 1.5" of cowl depth and everything would tuck inside and I could get rid of all my anti chaff devices.
     

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  7. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Upon some more google images searching I did find a cold seizure piston with only damage to the intake side. Who knows about my particular problem. I let it warm up same as always the day it lost power. Maybe my electrical issue came from my landing and was totally unrelated. I plopped it in a little bit on my deadstick landing as I ran out of steam with a fairly stiff headwind. I flew it for over 2 hrs later that day but I've also heard of guys going a 100 hrs after a cold seizure. Who knows. Like I said... it's all brand new now. Starting over from scratch.
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  8. TJay added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    A lot of people don't trust Hirth because of all the problems they had but in my opinion I still think the technology on them are miles ahead of Rotax, the two cycles at least.
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  9. Bandit added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Ok, my guess doesn't sound right then.
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  10. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Bandit what you can't see in those pics is they were scuffed all the way around. Cold Seizure is "usually" shaped like a square and gets 4 different places. Who knows. She's all brand new now.
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  11. Bandit added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Jim and Joey, I dug around and found my old CPS catalog and looked up the pictures of their damaged pistons. Both of your examples looked like a cold seizure. This type of failure is due to inadequate warm up.
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  12. EDMO added a post in a topic HAPPY BIRTHDAY AKFLYERBOB   

    Room for a landing strip and boat/plane dock - Too Kool !  Where is this part of heaven?
    EDMO
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  13. EDMO added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    I think that it was said that the desser 21-800-6 would take 800-6 tubes - Does that mean that my used Airstreak 800-6 tubes will work, or would I have to buy new tubes too?   What air pressure is needed?
    EDMO
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  14. akflyer added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    I think single pucks will work marginally if you have good pedal geometry. I would go double pucks though. You can get a bolt on kit from Matco to add another caliper to each wheel.


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  15. EDMO added a topic in Hangar Talk   

    Reiner Hoffman?
    Wasn't this the guy who started Stratus?  I just bought an alternator from him on ebay.
    Hope he sells a lightweight starter too...
    EDMO
    Reiner wrote to me today and verified that he was the Stratus originator - but no starters - I have a heavy one.
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  16. EDMO added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    Chris,
         I cant correct your post - But, I think you meant "slick" and not "sick" regarding the 27s for rough work!  I agree...
    EDMO
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  17. ChrisBolkan added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    I got the 21 X 800 ribbed for my Flat Avid tri gear project. They were just over $100 a pop. They can be bought "buffed" apparently too. Didn't know that till yesterday. That would lighten them up a bit but would also take away useful life. They are as big as I want to run on a tri gear Avid.
     
    I think those 22 X 850's look like the perfect all 'round tire for tailwheel operations, and the 27's look sick for rougher stuff at a fraction of what I spent on my 29 inch ABWs!
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  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Muffler insulation   

    Ron,
         The article I read about a guy who has built exhausts for some (30?) years, said that the heat buildup destroys the metal faster, (destroys chrome and causes rusting?), and because the wrapped exhausts are not as good at getting rid of heat, a 4-cycle can end up with burnt exhaust valves.
         From what I understand, the 2-cycle has to have a specially-built exhaust system that works to get the exhaust air out to make room for air to be sucked in - like a plenum chamber changes velocity of air - something like that - without the proper exhaust, the 2-cycle wont run right at different speeds - guess the special muffler is part of that system - think this is a problem they are having with the 670 in a plane because of designing an exhaust that fits in the cowl?
        Someone else might explain this better than an old 4-stroker can.  We only use mufflers to make our engines quieter, but they can prevent shock cooling / warpage to exhaust valves after shutdown, and they are an additional heat sink, so I have heard...
    My Soob came with 12" straight exhausts, but plan on adding two 12" chrome glasspaks if possible.  I don't think I can use the Stratus exhaust and muffler because of my nosegear, but they claim it adds 10 hp   I don't see how!
         In some European countries, a plane has to be about as quiet as you can make one - I forget what decibel level - Guess everyone has heard about the 5 foot long "Swiss" homemade mufflers....There are articles on how to make them.
    I think a couple of our members have them...
    EDMO
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  19. saskavid added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    so what make of carbs does the hirth use? In terms of controlling mixture /egt you may want ot look into a hacman to help with managing your fuel to air ratio. The bing 54's on the 582 are what the hac is set up to work with but can be adapted to others most likely with some finingering. Joey has a thread dealing with the installation on a 582 posted here.
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  20. MarkD added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    You may be correct but at the time (1998) I found this kit and became the third owner of the partial uncompleted kit.  I had to scrounge many missing parts and make others.  Some stuff I purchased from Airdale when they were still in business.  A local flying buddy had a MK-IV that suffered an engine failure resulting in extensive damage to the fuselage so I was able to "CASREP" parts and structure from the salvage.  That is where the wheels, brakes, rudder pedals, engine mount and various additional tubing and fittings came from.  It was a real build project.
     
    Thanks for the compliment, I'm actually quite proud of the plane because it represents better than two years of a challenging and difficult build. 
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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic Overhaul time!   

    Joey,
         Just from a novice view - Sure that you need better brakes - But wouldn't larger, (softer?) tires actually be easier on your axles since there might be less "bang" from the bumps and rocks you hit?
    Just a thought..waiting to hear from others.
    EDMO
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  22. RDavidson added a post in a topic Muffler insulation   

    Chris, from what I read about it, wrapping them makes the metal reach higher temps because it can't radiate the heat into the normal airflow. So the higher temps cause it to break down more quickly. I would like to see some real data on that though.

    Dusty, your point is the best one against the wraps that I have heard. I would think that you might want to replace the wrap at each conditional inspection or have a carbon monoxide sensor inside the cockpit as a backup? I don't know...

    Is a muffler necessary? Is it too loud without it? I don't know much about Rotax motors...you usually run straights on Lycoming engines.
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  23. EDMO added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    Sounds like a 503 Bandit 480 ew would have been a lot simpler - This is from a NON-2 stroker!  "lol"
    Nice looking plane...
    EDMO
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  24. MarkD added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    The ducting I made was part of the steep, painful learning curve previously mentioned. The lower ducting shown in the front view picture is the ducting to the Free-Air heads. Larger outlet than inlet and uses cowl pressure to draw the air across the heads. The port side duct (upper duct inlet) shown in the front view picture is cooling duct to the exhaust side of the cylinder above the heads and below the exhaust port (inverted engine). This duct provides additional direct cooling to the exhaust side of the cylinders. Again, this is a result of long term pain on the learning curve. The typical operating temps are 350-400deg F CHT and 1100-1200deg F EGT. 500CHT and 1250EGT are absolute max allowed. I fly the EGT most of the time. RPM values are: 6800 red line, Try to prop the engine for 5500 static, cruise around 4800 to 5000 depending on EGT with a burn rate of 5gph. The electronic ignition has built in non-adjustable 7000rpm limiter.
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  25. MarkD added a post in a topic Pics of N577MD   

    Engine is a Hirth 2706-2C with free air heads and self made ducting. Saved nearly 20lbs by going Free-Air. Not absolutely sure it was the best idea but at the time I was determined to make an Avid that weighed less than 500lbs. The pay off is absolutely outstanding performance but the sacrifice is very critical tuning in jetting and prop pitch adjustments. I may have to change jetting and prop pitch multiple times as daytime temps change to control EGTs as optimal as possible. I get better than 1000FPM climbs and cruise at 85-90MPH indicated. Fuel burn is fairly steady around 5gph. Take offs are usually around 100ft and stalls are typically around 40mph or under with no flaps deployed. Fun airplane to fly and very capable in off airport applications. If I had to do it all over again I would probably keep the fan cooling or go with the 582 with oil injection. I had some mechanical problems with the Hirth initially but I hope that is all behind me now. The learning curve was very painful.
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