tailwheel spring bolts?

[High Country 69]

I have installed Bretts two leaf tailwheel spring which adds a second bolt to mount it to the airframe I believe this bolt is more to keep the second spring from rotating from side to side rather than actually holding everything on. my problem is getting this second (rearward) bolt in. Bretts way was to grind off two sides of the bolt get it down into the airframe and through the bottom then just put on a locknut and the flat ground head would hold itself in place between the two lower tubes as they come together but on my airframe that whole area has been filled with some type of epoxy so I have to get something in there to hold the bolt while putting the nut on. has anyone else run into this problem there is no real room to work with and I really don't want to cut into my fabric just for this bolt. I did put in an inspection ring but its a bit to high and forward to really get directly onto this rear bolt. I had thoughts of trying to tap threads into the spring and just thread a bolt up through the bottom I know it will do nothing to hold it all onto the airframe but it will keep the two springs aligned which I believe is its purpose anyways correct I did have to grind just a tad off the top edges to fit up into the channel on the airframe which helps hold it straight but it is definitely not enough. other than making adjustments and tuning this is the last real thing I need to do before I can fly it.

 

-Robert-

 

[EDMO 1078]

I wouldn't even think of trying to tap threads into a hardened spring - You will either break the tap, or cause the spring to break later on.

 the head of the rear bolt on mine was set in 9460. 

EDMO

Would it work to just drop a bolt thru the two pieces of spring to keep them lined up, and not the fuselage?

Edited 3 Aug 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[akflyer 1427]

I was able to wedge a large flat blade screw driver between the head of the bolt and the tube while I zipped the nut on from the bottom side with an impact gun. 

 

[EDMO 1078]

The old-time car springs were kept aligned by a steel rectangle slipped over the springs, and held in place by a rivet thru the hole in the spring - any way you can do something like that?

EDMO

Edited 3 Aug 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[High Country 69]

Leni. on my airframe the two lower tubes coming together where the bolt sits between has been filled with some sort of epoxy or something completely to the top of the tubes so its completely flat giving me nothing to hold against.

 

Ed- the strap and rivet may be an option I will have to take a look and give it some thought

Edited 3 Aug 2014 by High Country

[IFMT 36]

Put a better spring on it now. The one from Brett will not stand up.

[High Country 69]

Put a better spring on it now. The one from Brett will not stand up.

 

I'm only one bolt and some paperwork away from being in the air I'm not changing at this point. thanks for the input though

[akflyer 1427]

How about setting the head of the bolt in some structural epoxy and letting it set up before you put the nut on?  Drill the hole, put a glob of epoxy under the head and stick it in the hole and let it cure up.  All it has to hold in the initial TQ then the epoxy can break out for all you care.  Chances are the epoxy is going to bust out in that area over time and beating the tail wheel anyways, but it will get you in the air.  As you have said, that bolt is just to help hold the alignment and it wont be the end of the world if it loosens up over time.

 

[High Country 69]

Leni i've thought of that but I'm not too sure how much epoxy would be on it by the the time I get it into the hole as I have to use my long flexable fingers to get it in and its quite a chore. I'm now thinking if I can get a bolt in it that is to long I can figure the location and pre drill it for a cotter pin. then I could hold the long threads with my fingers screw up a castle nut then two other nuts and lock them together giving me something solid to put a wrench on from the outside and tighten up the castle nut then just lock it with a cotter pin. then I could just cut off the excess bolt with a dremel and be good to go. sound like a feasible idea?

[akflyer 1427]

Yes. Or just run a normal nut on it, you should be able to tighten that up then put a lock nut on it. Or a normal nut with lock tite.

[High Country 69]

thanks leni that would save me from breaking more drill bits