582 Gray Head Cooling

[allonsye 85]

Folks, my firewall forward project is coming along and I'm getting close to firing it up for the first time after first completing final electrical and fuel line connections.

 

The PO had 3 radiators on this '99 C-model. What appears the OEM issue has/was mounted on the belly and also two in the cheek/nose. This seems like overkill to me so I've removed the cheek radiators and will operate with the belly mount. I've also installed a thermostat which I'm reasonably certain the previous build did not have. Further it also seems crazy to have those cheek radiators directing hot/warm air directly into the carb intake - talk about a power suck! Now at least the carbs will be getting plenty of cool air.

 

I'm soliciting opinions from the collective on this setup. Will this belly radiator be adequate enough? I've posted some before pics below before I started on it and took the firewall off. I've reinstalled the belly radiator in the same position.

 

Also, I read somewhere a 582 user was running is cooling system unpressurized, the idea being less likelyhood of coolant pushing past seals and into the crankcase. Thoughts on this? If this is a good idea, exactly how would you set this up? Simply a non-spring loaded expansion chamber cap?

 

Oh, one other thing - what's the concensus on installing firesleeves on the fuel lines firewall fwd in these aircraft? Necessary?

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

Paul

 

[dynomike 91]

the Evans coolant runs almost no pressure.if every thing is dry it would be the time to use it.

[EDMO 1078]

When you have success with the belly radiator, let me know by PM if you are going to sell the old cheek radiators.

Thanks,

EDMO

[ChrisBolkan 130]

Following are my observations and not all of it may be fact, but it is what I found in my experience. This and $3.50 will get you a Mocha at the local coffee shop.

I believe pure distilled water has the best heat transfer of any "coolant". Coolants provide corrosion resistance and freeze protection but do not help with heat transfer, they actually inhibit it.

"Waterless" coolants like Evans boil at a higher themp than water (a nice benefit), but do not transfer heat as well, so more radiator or higher pressures are required all things being equal.

The pressure in a cooling system raises the temp a water(and coolant)will boil.

I found that running distilled water and 10% coolant in the summer had sufficient heat transfer capacity that I was able to run just the two cheek radiators on the hottest days where I live. And it gets HOT! In the winter I raised the coolant to 50% to prevent freezing. That combo worked quite well without all the extra radiators and provided sufficient corrosion protection.

With waterless coolant you may be able to run the cooling system at atmospheric pressure, but the heat transfer will not be as good.

If you run water and a small amount of coolant, heat transfer will be quite good and you won't need as much radiator, but unless you run a pressure cap, micro boiling could occurr at hot spots, even though water temp will indicate below boiling temp.

I think a pressure cap is a good idea and offers a margin of safety by raising boiling temp.

[akflyer 1427]

What ChrisB said.. I also had good results using water wetter in the system along with the coolant / distilled water.

 

[lostman 198]

As an auto mechanic I used to have some information on how much pressure = what boiling temp of a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. Wish I had a clue where that was. It was significant though and obviously a pressurized system has it's downfall and far as blowing things out, but when working properly keeps this from going in directions they aren't supposed to! (rod outside of crankcases etc).

I think I'll still stick with a pressurized system for my own use, thanks!

[sioux201 84]

Redline water wetter, google it

[lostman 198]

I would have no problem running Waterwetter, in fact I have run it in the past with my off road rig. Since we idle in place a lot on some of the nasty trails I run it was nice to have a little extra cooling factor there. I personally didn't see too much difference but I was having engine issues that started just after I started using it. After I finally lost the engine and installed a newer one I also upgraded the radiator and just never used it again since I was staying cool without spending the extra money.

I've heard great things about the product from a good friend of mine that owns a race car business in Cincinnati though. He's the one that got me on it years ago.

I say use whatever works for you, like they say, "different strokes for different folk"!

[allonsye 85]

Great responses. I appreciate it. I've decided to go the Water Wetter route and the belly radiator. 

 

Ed - you've dibs on the "cheeks" pending the belly outcome.

 

Paul

[EDMO 1078]

Good - Have you considered what Leni said about lowering the belly rad a couple of inches to improve cooling?

EDMO

[avidchh 3]

You will also have better fin exposure thus better cooling with the radiator mounted on an angle vs airflow, up to 45 degrees. This is a dirt bike racer's trick. (I'm not the dirt bike racer)

Stephen

 

Edited 4 Feb 2014 by Stephen N613HH

[EDMO 1078]

I think if you angle the bottom of the rad forward it will work better to trap the air.

A shroud also helps.

EDMO

Edited 4 Feb 2014 by Ed In Missouri

[avidchh 3]

I think if you angle the bottom of the rad forward it will work better to trap the air.

A shroud also helps.

EDMO

Ed note the angle in the pic and the low pressure exit shroud, Prev pic is from the rear.

Edited 5 Feb 2014 by Stephen N613HH

[EDMO 1078]

Thanks Steve,  That's what I meant.

EDMO

[allonsye 85]

I think if you angle the bottom of the rad forward it will work better to trap the air.

A shroud also helps.

EDMO

 

Gad Dam! Looks like I've got to reengineer this! Thanks guys. That setup looks far more effective Steve.

 

Leni - I'd rather not lower it for asthetics sake. The trick will be to make it more effective as Steve has done.

 

Steve - just how effective or well does your setup work?

 

Cheers:)

Paul

[EDMO 1078]

A rad that is straight up would work better than one angled with the bottom toward the back, IMO.  Shrouds really help.  The entrance and exit of the shroud should be smaller than the rad - this causes the air to slow down thru the rad, and gives more time for it to cool.

EDMO

[avidchh 3]

Gad Dam! Looks like I've got to reengineer this! Thanks guys. That setup looks far more effective Steve.

 

Leni - I'd rather not lower it for asthetics sake. The trick will be to make it more effective as Steve has done.

 

Steve - just how effective or well does your setup work?

 

Cheers:)

Paul

Cooling is superior even on the ground. The shroud is high pressure in and low out causing natural flow through. Important to have the draw lip on the back as in the pic. Reducing the size of the out also reduces the low pressure reducing the differential reducing the flow reducing the cooling. You can also shutter the front for winter.