ORATEX FABRIC

[EDMO 1078]

First, go back and read what Doug and I posted in "NEW FARBIC", and watch the video.

Sorry, I should have posted this on that heading.

I have been checking out - well, trying to check out - the Oratex Coverings, and have had limited success, but watched 3 videos. Cant find prices or how to get a catalog -

BUT HERE IS THE BIG QUESTION WE NEED ANSWERED:

They showed a Kitfox with this covering at Oshkosh. The instructions say to make a 180 or a 270 degree wrap around the leading edge with the first layer - A 180, I can do, but - HOW DO YOU wrap 270 around a leading edge that has ribs sticking to it like ours?

Looks like you would have to split it at each rib?

I think the drawing really shows much more wrap than that - maybe more than 360?

ON MINE, with the plywood-covering extending 12 inches back from leading edge, there is NO WAY to make more than a 180 wrap - guess that will work?

I got the Alaska phone numbers - will call them tomorrow.

EDMO

Edited 15 Aug 2013 by Ed In Missouri

[akflyer 1427]

if it says that you can have a 180 OR a 270 wrap.... well... that kinda leaves it up to you.  If you can do 180, but not 270, I would say the choice is pretty clear

 

I have covered A LOT of models with oratex, I would love to do a full size plane with it!

 

[EDMO 1078]

I talked to the man at Oratex today and he is sending me a catalog and free sample -

He says that they do not make the 3000 now because of lack of orders for it, and the 600 is too light for the Kitfox, so the 6000 is about the only choice left - I have my doubts about the prices being cheap, but we will see.

I forgot to ask where he was in Alaska.

EDMO

[akflyer 1427]

I am pretty sure he is in Anchorage or in the valley. I know he is someplace in that area.

 

[Av8r3400 1179]

I think once you factor in a urethane paint top coat, it will be very competitive.

It still doesn't hold a candle to the repairabity, ease if use and durability of Stits/Poly Fiber.

What I would really like to know is if the Stewarts glue and subcoats can be topped with Polytone. I will not use the super carcinogenic Stewarts paint.

Edited 15 Aug 2013 by Av8r3400

[EDMO 1078]

I think once you factor in a urethane paint top coat, it will be very competitive.

It still doesn't hold a candle to the repairabity, ease if use and durability of Stits/Poly Fiber.

What I would really like to know is if the Stewarts glue and subcoats can be topped with Polytone. I will not use the super carcinogenic Stewarts paint.

Why don't you call Stewarts and ASK?

I was told that an IA here topped off his Stewarts glue and UV with Randolphs paint - Don't know if that was regular Randolph or Randthane.

The guy in Alaska talked about the cost of covering a Supercub with Oratex being about $4000 - To me, that is sure as heck NOT 20% less!

There is no topcoat paint with Oratex.

I thought my buddy was too perfectionist, which he is, when he spent $3100 for us to cover and paint the J3 with Stewarts.

I can buy 35 yards of 1.7 for about $250, or 2.7 for $400, and Randolphs for about $75 a gallon - I cant see over $1000 in covering and painting my bird, even if I have to spray it in the yard, make a temporary paint booth, or roll/brush it on.

EDMO

Edited 15 Aug 2013 by Ed In Missouri

[akflyer 1427]

well if you factor in that most guys are PAYING someone else to cover the plane and paint it (not us home builders) then you have a substantial savings in not paying your A&P or local paint shop to paint the plane after covering. 

 

It is nothing for a guy to have 8-10 into a cover and paint job.  I know a guy that just paid 15 to get his 170 painted.. 

 

[birddog486 21]

I'm curious to hear the cost of the oratex also. I'm just finishing up the painting on a c-model avid and the total cost for the cheap medium covering, tapes and paint using all stewarts is just south of 2k.

 

This is a white bird with two quarts of red thrown in.

[EDMO 1078]

I like Stewarts glue process, but think the paint is about 4 times too high!

I will say that the paint is really tough when put on aluminum or FG. Cant scratch it.

EDMO

Travis, did you use the white primer plus the white finish coat? This is what we did, as recommended for yellow and for red, before the final yellow coats on the J3. I would have left it in white primer over the UV and then the yellow, but my buddy is a perfectionist, and he was paying the bill, and it is his plane. Really looks good for $3K.

ED

Edited 16 Aug 2013 by Ed In Missouri

[EDMO 1078]

well if you factor in that most guys are PAYING someone else to cover the plane and paint it (not us home builders) then you have a substantial savings in not paying your A&P or local paint shop to paint the plane after covering. 

 

It is nothing for a guy to have 8-10 into a cover and paint job.  I know a guy that just paid 15 to get his 170 painted.. 

 

Probably a rich Alaskan Oil Worker - not on Social Security!

ED

[birddog486 21]

Ed, I used the grey ekofill, then topcoated that with the Insignia white and a plain jane red stripe painted over the white.

I like Stewarts glue process, but think the paint is about 4 times too high!
I will say that the paint is really tough when put on aluminum or FG. Cant scratch it.
EDMO
Travis, did you use the white primer plus the white finish coat? This is what we did, as recommended for yellow and for red, before the final yellow coats on the J3. I would have left it in white primer over the UV and then the yellow, but my buddy is a perfectionist, and he was paying the bill, and it is his plane. Really looks good for $3K.
ED

 

[akflyer 1427]

I sure do love new and shiny!  Looks good!

 

[EDMO 1078]

Travis,

I have to say, "It looks REALLY GOOD, especially since you used my paint scheme and colors" Ha!

I hope mine turns out that good. Congrats!

EDMO