Denso 182800-1950

[dholly 718]

Anyone got a cross part substitute for this? Thnx

http://www.usautoelectric.com/store-...097852490.html

[dholly 718]

http://www.usautoelectric.com/store-products-182800-1950-Solenoid,-OEM-Denso-------182800-1950_1097852490.html

Correct link. Sorry posting on phone.

[akflyer 1427]

I just used a 20.00 ford fender mount one..  You could probably check a local snogo shop and and find a cheap replacement too.

 

[Av8r3400 1179]

Master or starter solenoid? (There is a difference.)

[akflyerbob 41]

MerCruiser Power Trim/Starter Solenoid Item Number: 89-96158T

@$20

 

Starter solenoids are designed for intermittent use

 

Master solenoids are for longer duration use

Edited 4 May 2013 by akflyerbob

[dholly 718]

Thanks guys, this is the starter solenoid. I *thought* that might be my problem, but I took it out and got it clicking with a long screwdriver jumped to the car battery. Then I cut the insulation blanket so it would seat directly on the firewall thinking maybe I lost the ground from the mounting screws. Nothing. Then I took the master solenoid off the battery box and confirmed that worked. Was getting frustrated, hate chasing electrical probelms. Never had a problem with this plane staring, worked great 3-4 times earlier in the day then just a few clicks and the starter spinning (I think) but not engaging. Was at a loss until I hooked the master solenoid back up and saw a loose/broken wire. There is a fused line coming off the batt terminal on the master solenoid that was crimped with something other than a proper crimper tool. Guessing it was broke at the crimp but pulled apart completely when I was messing with the master. I didn't notice it was broke since it was covered in electrical tape. Will fix and heat shrink wrap properly tomorrow and hope that's the problem. 

[dholly 718]

Alright, I can't figure this out. It wasn't the broken wire, some day I'll chase it down and figure where that goes (damn tefzel wires all looks the same without labling). Any suggestions where to check next?

 

[edit] I would add that I removed the starter solenoid before testing to avoid creating any potential problems doing so when wired into the system. Now that it is back in, I would like to try another test.

 

Tell me if you think I will harm anything if I remove the wire from the spade terminal and, with a screwdriver, touch the spade terminal and the hot part of the solenoid to see if the starter engages. Shouldn't think so, however, don't need an expensive learning moment either!

 

I am also taking a voltmeter with me next time. Is this the correct method to test the starter solenoid?

 

- Set voltmeter to 12 volts.

 

- Attach the negative probe from the voltmeter to a negative ground.

 

- Attach the positive probe from the voltmeter onto the positive wire leading off of the solenoid that runs from the solenoid to the starter post.

 

- Turn the key on the ignition as if I was starting and read the voltmeter.

 

Am I correct thinking that if the solenoid needs to be replaced, the meter will read little or no voltage. If the solenoid is good, I will get a solid 12-volt-plus reading on the meter.

Edited 8 May 2013 by dholly

[akflyer 1427]

Yes you are correct in your thinking.  You shouldnt hurt the solenoid by jumpering it.  It should just take a piece of wire to jumper it and not a screw driver from the hot side of the solenoid to the termial from the key to make sure that the key is not the issue.  I had a starter shit the bed on me that just up and quit.  Started fione one start, then nothing the next.  But you should atleast hear the solenoid pulling in when you hit the key (click).  I had the local aurtomotive shop rebuild my started for 68 bucks including new brush plate etc.

 

[wypaul 448]

Doug,

 

The first thing I would test is to check that you are getting power to the solenoid when you turn the key or hit the starter button.  If yes, then check to see if you are getting 13 volts on the starter side of the solenoid when in the start position.  The fuse to the starter is good right?

[Av8r3400 1179]

Hold it!!!!

Be sure it is not a ground switching solenoid. My hybrid building buddy was having solenoid trouble until he realized it was a ground switch.

[dholly 718]

As I understand, one can supply power to either large post of a starter solenoid because it is internally grounded via the body or mount, and the coil is energized by supplying power from the switch to the tab lug. Jumping from the hot side post to the energizing spade tab lug with ignition switch wire removed from the spade lug will power the starter (or not if the starter solenoid is bad). Again, don't want to steer anyone wrong, but I can't see how this would hurt anything as a quick field test if you don't have access to a meter.

However -and one must be careful here- a master battery solenoid works just the opposite, ie. the coil is connected to the battery side internally and you turn it on by supplying ground to the other side of the coil. Read: don't put power to both large posts on a master relay unless you need a new one!

 

I did not test the Denso soleniod by jumping from the (+) hot line side post to the energizing tab lug. Rather, I grounded the Denso solenoid by holding the metal base against the car battery (-) post and used a long screwdriver to connect the (+) battery post to the Denso energizing spade tab lug. I get a single clicks rather than multiple, repeated clicks or buzzing. After I reinstalled the starter solenoid, I get a solid buzz when the ignition key is turned to the Start position.

 

Battery is fully charged and no loose electrical connections found. Volt reading to hot side of solenoid with Master On is 11.95v. With meter (+) probe to spade connector from ignition switch line (disconnected from solenoid) and meter (-) probe grounded to solenoid mount is 11.95v. Volt reading with all solenoid leads attached and solenoid body mounted/grounded to firewall, meter (+) probe to solenoid output post, meter (-) probe grounded to solenoid mount and ignition switch turned to Start, is -3.11v.

Sure seems like the starter solenoid is shot. But I tested it outside the plane again (base grounded to (-) battery terminal, jumper wire from (+) battery terminal to solenoid exciter spade connector lug) and got the same result as before, ie. single click when activated, which suggests it is ok???

Frustrating. I've ordered the following replacement solenoid recommended on the Rotax-owners.com forum:

Replacement Starter Solenoid for Honda tractors:

P/N #31204-ZA0-003

Honda Code 2108298

[Russ. 7]

Only true test is under load condition.  Your under load test shows solenoid is bad.

[dholly 718]

Only true test is under load condition.

 

Aha, that explains it. Thanks Russ!

[dholly 718]

Or not. It was the battery after all. The old battery was an AGM type (absorbed glass mat), not gel as I thought. AGM is supposed to be superior to gel but can't say I would recommend a ETX Magna Power (Deka) AGM based on this experience.

Thanks again for the input.