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homemade spring gear

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Posted (edited)

I am not sure why everyone opted to go with the metal springs over a cub style bungee gear.

Best guess is because you dont have to replace the springs often like the bungees? I thought the Hydrosorb gear that F. A. Dodge in Anchorage designed for the cubs/supercubs was much better than the old bungees.

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Best guess is because you dont have to replace the springs often like the bungees? I thought the Hydrosorb gear that F. A. Dodge in Anchorage designed for the cubs/supercubs was much better than the old bungees.

ED in MO

And the A.O.S.S is even better than the hydrosorb I think.

The bungees on the cub gear are a real bitch to change if you dont have the right tool. If you have the tool, they are easy to change. I can get pics of a cub gear when I get home if no one has any already. That will probably be the easiest to tune and to make, but as Ed pointed out, they are normally a one shot deal. You can put the bungees on with the tool, but you cut them off and have to replace them every time you swap the gear out.

:BC:

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Posted (edited)

And the A.O.S.S is even better than the hydrosorb I think.

The bungees on the cub gear are a real bitch to change if you dont have the right tool. If you have the tool, they are easy to change. I can get pics of a cub gear when I get home if no one has any already. That will probably be the easiest to tune and to make, but as Ed pointed out, they are normally a one shot deal. You can put the bungees on with the tool, but you cut them off and have to replace them every time you swap the gear out.

:BC:/>/>

We were taught how to make the bungee tool at UAA - I dont have one, since I was already into the Grove gear, and had the Atlee Dodge hydrosorb on my Maule.

And, bungees are supposed to be replaced every 5 years regardless, I think?

ED in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

And the A.O.S.S is even better than the hydrosorb I think.

The bungees on the cub gear are a real bitch to change if you dont have the right tool. If you have the tool, they are easy to change. I can get pics of a cub gear when I get home if no one has any already. That will probably be the easiest to tune and to make, but as Ed pointed out, they are normally a one shot deal. You can put the bungees on with the tool, but you cut them off and have to replace them every time you swap the gear out.

:BC:/>

It seemed like the Highlander bungies were a multi wrap design like Standard Avid/Kitfox bungies just on the strut.

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Posted

Why would you need to do the Zennair wanna-be slotted wing?

I'm just saying if I was going to clean sheet a landing gear design, it would follow the patter of the long travel super-stol design, or maybe the Wilga trailing link (also a long travel).

Personally, I like my Grove aluminum spring gear. I'm going to use the same on my project and highly recommend it...

I thought the Just STOL gear tied the outer shock support into the fusagae at about the bottom of the windshield or top outer engine mount but not at the front wing carrythrough as the Storch does, so I don't think it would have to have the wing mod. That gear sure has some travel in it; it looks like fun.

I know it seems to get pretty negative comments but the slatted/slotted wing still seems pretty intreaging to me. Just claims 10% faster on the top end and 10% slower on the bottom end. From the video it looks like theirs pops out instead of hinging to open. It looks like it would be somewhat punishing on the airframe to land it by dropping from the high angle of attack if you didn't have the long travel gear, but takoff should be able to take advantage of it without punishing a plane with regular bungee gear.

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Posted (edited)

I thought the Just STOL gear tied the outer shock support into the fusagae at about the bottom of the windshield or top outer engine mount but not at the front wing carrythrough as the Storch does, so I don't think it would have to have the wing mod. That gear sure has some travel in it; it looks like fun.

I know it seems to get pretty negative comments but the slatted/slotted wing still seems pretty intreaging to me. Just claims 10% faster on the top end and 10% slower on the bottom end. From the video it looks like theirs pops out instead of hinging to open. It looks like it would be somewhat punishing on the airframe to land it by dropping from the high angle of attack if you didn't have the long travel gear, but takoff should be able to take advantage of it without punishing a plane with regular bungee gear.

There was a guy in Canada some years ago making the slats that popped out - I forget the name of the plane -

The ones I saw in Alaska, I believe may have been hinged - saw mounting details in one of my mags some time ago.

Zenith put VGs on one of their wings, and believe it did as well, and maybe better cruise than slats?

I will stay with the VGs - Mine on bottom for maybe more cruise - Havent decided on top yet - got to flight test before doing either. But I'm not dropping into potholes like you guys do.

Ed in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri
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Posted

I also have the WIB gear using the bungees. If you find a way of modifying to the spring type keep a good record for the rest of us. Thanks Russ. N844RS

I was on the Team Kitfox forum today, and a guy had remodeled his bungee gear into using the springs. He hasn't used it yet, but if you want to have a look, dig up the Firewall Seal thread. I kind of went off topic with the thread when I looked at his gear and asked some questions about it. Take care, Jim Chuk

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Posted

I was on the Team Kitfox forum today, and a guy had remodeled his bungee gear into using the springs. He hasn't used it yet, but if you want to have a look, dig up the Firewall Seal thread. I kind of went off topic with the thread when I looked at his gear and asked some questions about it. Take care, Jim Chuk

Thanks Jim, will look at it. Russ

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Posted

Thanks Jim, will look at it. Russ

Dang still banned

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Posted

Dang still banned

I think one can view topics on that forum without logging in. Jim

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Posted

I think one can view topics on that forum without logging in. Jim

but you cant see pictures.. Joey, do a search for ip hide.. you can make a new email and new account and they cant trace your IP... Ask me, I know :lol:

:BC:

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Posted

I know nothing...

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Posted

^ yeah, except for those darn emoticons! beerchug.gif

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Posted

That's Bob Mc Dunna

No, I'm Bob McCAA...another one of them heathen Scots.

The difference between Avid gear and Kitfox gear is that the Kitfox axle is directly below the front gear pivot, and the Avid axle leads by about 3 3/4 inch.(on the tall gear)

I think the Kitfox gear would be easier to make. I don't kmow what the ramifications would be of using that on the Avid. The attach points are in the same location on bothm and the fuselage dimensions are also pretty close.

Most of my tubing was .049 wall thickness. The only thing I used a lathe for was making the spring stops.

When I build again I will use heavier strapping at the top and bottom of the spring strut.

Have a look at a Super Cub or a clone. I copied from that, a Hatz Biplane and the Highwing LLC gear.

Mac

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Posted (edited)

No, I'm Bob McCAA...another one of them heathen Sc

When I build again I will use heavier strapping at the top and bottom of the spring strut.

Mac

Can you tell us why you want the heavier strapping? If I remember right, you used 1/8" strap. Or am I misunderstanding your post. How well has the gear stood up otherwise? Any comments you can add about your gear would be welcome I'm sure. Thanks, Jim Chuk

Edited by Jim Chuk

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Posted

I hate it when a good thread like this dies with so many questions left on the table! I would have liked to see what he had to say about the issues with the top strap too...I guess I'm just too inquisitive.

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Posted

Sometimes I wonder if it's something I've said.... :-)  Like a fart in church and the embarrest silence that follows it.  :wasntme: Jim Chuk

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Posted

yes Jim,  sometimes the silence is deafening!

EDMO

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Posted

I have a copy of the Pazmany Landing gear book, and was looking for the Storch gear setup - He didn't put it into this book because it is in the other book of Storch plans he sold.

However, I did find some drawings with angles and forces for the cabane spring type gear.  Seems like when the angle between the gear leg and the cabane leg is increased from 15 degrees to 28 degrees, the forces are a lot less.

If anyone wants this posted, just say so, and I will attempt to post it.

EDMO

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Posted

Let her rip Ed,  Jim

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Posted

Jim,

     If I can get daughter to help this late - otherwise, tomorrow.  I am still learning on this new-fangled stuff.

ED

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Posted (edited)

Trying to copy cabane gear article:  2 pages

EDMO

Something is not right here - I tried to download 2 pages, but can only read one - if any of you experts can straighten this out, please do - otherwise I will try tomorrow to post the other page.

I do well to turn the puter on!

Ed

post-399-0-26441500-1389419717_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Good info and it is exactly what my engineering buddy told me also.  I am not sure why the guys that built the spring gear didn't look more closely at copying the cub gear as it seems to have worked quite well for the last 70 yrs without buckling the fuse sides. 

 

:BC:

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Posted

Great information. This is what I was thinking when I put it through the paces, but it was just thinking it through rather than doing a lot of math on the forces (which I probably can't really do anyway). I just seems natural that you could reduce the forces transferred into the fuselage by increasing the angle from the cabanes on the inner leg. Hope you can get the other page loaded up.

Thanks Ed!

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