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Which cover/paint system to use?

17 posts in this topic

Posted

So I'm hoping to paint my airframe this week so i can get it off the porch and start building my wings. I'm still undecided on which system to use and was hoping to get some good persuasion one way or the other. I was originally planning to use the Stewart system primarily due to the lack of fumes as I'm doing my whole build on my porch. However my concern is how difficult is it to make repairs to. Not that I want to but knowing where I plan to fly its bound to get a hole or two at some point. I was reading that the stits poly fiber system is easy to make repairs to and you never new they were there but I'm a bit concerned with the fumes while applying it. What would you do? Next question (the reason I'm asking this now) is what paint should i use to paint my airframe, it has already been primed and powder coated but its been sitting a while and is stained, I've lightly sanded it and its ready for paint. I was thinking of an automotive enamel its a lot cheaper than using the "systems" paint that I will use on the fabric. I just want to know that whatever it is I will have a good strong bond for the fabric to adhere to.

-Robert-

p.s. pics are of my "shop" its heated via opening a window to the house and using a box fan behind the wood stove.

post-352-13309091078744_thumb.jpg

post-352-13309097788547_thumb.jpg

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Posted

If you use the Poly Fiber system you will need to use epoxy primer. They sell an epoxy primer that they recommend. I used PPG's epoxy primer because it was available locally. Cost wise about the same when you add shipping into the mix. I can only guess that Stewart's is much less fussy about primers and under coats but it would be best to ask them. Stewart's will need to be kept warm so it doesn't freeze which can be a problem this time of year during shipping.

Paul

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Posted

I used the Stewart system. I have to make repairs to my wing and fuselage. I called them and got instructions, very easy to repair. Give them a call

to answer any questions you have. Good luck with your build. Russ

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Posted

I have not used the Stwearts system so I cant speak to the ease of repairs, but I cant believe anything could be much easier to get a quality repair job done on that the Polyfiber system. For field repairs, it is stupid simple to do on the polyfiber.

The areas that the powder coat had failed on my airframe, I hit with a wire brush then MEK, then layed down a good coat of PPG epozy primer from the local body shop. I talked to several of the aircraft repair shops in the area and they all said that is what they do. I save a good bit over the price of the polyfiber epoxy primer. No issues at all with the poly tack holding to it.

:BC:

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Posted

Thanks for the info, do you think i will have any problems with ventilation on my porch if i use the poly fiber system, I have a box fan in the window bringing in fresh warm air and another at the other end blowing out. Of course if it is pretty easy to do a nice patch with the stewart system i may just go that route. As for the PPG epoxy primer is there PPG epoxy paint that i could use? I'm still not sold on one system or the other.

-Robert-

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Posted

Thanks for the info, do you think i will have any problems with ventilation on my porch if i use the poly fiber system, I have a box fan in the window bringing in fresh warm air and another at the other end blowing out. Of course if it is pretty easy to do a nice patch with the stewart system i may just go that route. As for the PPG epoxy primer is there PPG epoxy paint that i could use? I'm still not sold on one system or the other.

-Robert-

You can use epoxy paint over it, but I just stuck with the primer, no real need for a top coat on the fuse tubes. If you need to paint other metal parts, I used the epoxy primer then shot the poly tone over that so the plane stayed all one color.

:BC:

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Posted (edited)

I am 70 - Abused Lungs many times - Lucky to still be breathing - Had Cancer twice - Only one kidney now.

Wouldn't breath MEK, Acetone, or any of the Poly systems fumes now for any amount of money! Doctor also told me to sell my welder, or die early!

I just used the Stewart system for the first time, and will use it again.

Use epoxy if you are not afraid of it, but better to use the primer / paint that Stewart sells - it is nontoxic.

We sprayed the metal parts with it on the J3, and I tried to scratch a practice piece and it was hard as nails.

Repairs are so simple you won't believe it.

Get their 6 disk DVD (I got it free when I told them I would use their products).

They are easy to get in touch with, and great to answer my questions.

Recommend it highly over any of the Old "BAD" Stuff.

CORRECTION: Now 3 times Cancer - Just had skin cancers removed from face!

Ed in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

One caveat with the Stewarts system.....they use isocyanates to set up the materials. This will absorb through any exposed skin...even your eyes. Bad stuff....

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Posted

One caveat with the Stewarts system.....they use isocyanates to set up the materials. This will absorb through any exposed skin...even your eyes. Bad stuff....

I've never heard that before. Can you please source that infomation? This would completely fly in the face of their "non-toxic" claims.

Isocyanates are what makes DuPont Imron paint so durable (and incredibly toxic).

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Posted

http://www.westav.ca...MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoStrip%20MSDS%20Nov%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoClean%20MSDS%2010,07,2010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoBond%20MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/stewartsys.php < Click this link to see the drop down menu for all the MSDS on the stewart products

What? You mean a manufacture would um, take the liberty of bullshitting us a little bit in order to sell thier product?? I am not going to link all the MSDS for all of thier products, but it is safe to say that the claims that there are NO TOXIC chemicals in the stewarts system products is complete and total bullshit.

Just because it does not smell bad, does not mean it is not harmful.. I am in NO WAY saying that it is as bad as polyfiber, or some of the other systems, just saying that it is not 100% safe as they would like you to believe.

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Posted (edited)

http://www.westav.ca...MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoStrip%20MSDS%20Nov%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoClean%20MSDS%2010,07,2010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoBond%20MSDS%202010.pdf

http://www.westav.ca/stewartsys.php < Click this link to see the drop down menu for all the MSDS on the stewart products

What? You mean a manufacture would um, take the liberty of bullshitting us a little bit in order to sell thier product?? I am not going to link all the MSDS for all of thier products, but it is safe to say that the claims that there are NO TOXIC chemicals in the stewarts system products is complete and total bullshit.

Just because it does not smell bad, does not mean it is not harmful.. I am in NO WAY saying that it is as bad as polyfiber, or some of the other systems, just saying that it is not 100% safe as they would like you to believe.

If you watch the videos, they use skin protection, and also lung and eye protection on the finish coats. Still not as bad as nitrate/buterate, MEK.

ALSO, NON-FLAMABLE, because it is waterborne.

Ed in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

So i think I'm going to go with the Stewart system so I'm going to pick up some epoxy paint tomorrow and hopefully get the airframe painted soon so i can make room for the wings. Any epoxy paint should work right? or is there something that i should be looking for specifically. or to stay away from. Thanks for the input

-Robert-

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Posted

So i think I'm going to go with the Stewart system so I'm going to pick up some epoxy paint tomorrow and hopefully get the airframe painted soon so i can make room for the wings. Any epoxy paint should work right? or is there something that i should be looking for specifically. or to stay away from. Thanks for the input

-Robert-

Just make sure that the color contrasts with what is on there if possible. You will constantly find little sections you have missed until you get a complete coat.

We just went to an auto paint store fou ours. The fuselage was sandblasted, and the epoxy primer was gray, so we went back and had them tint it pink, then we covered it with epoxy white.

My friend who owns a paint shop says he uses a self-etching primer instead of epoxy, and then uses epoxy for a finish coat. He says this primer "grabs" the metal, expecially aluminum, better.

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Posted

I already have primer and powder coat on it i just want to change the color and make it look nice. I figure a nice gloss gray possibly even metallic will be nice and contrast the white and red that will be my final coats on the fabric.

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Posted

One caveat with the Stewarts system.....they use isocyanates to set up the materials. This will absorb through any exposed skin...even your eyes. Bad stuff....

I covered my flaps and ailerons and even did the brush coats in the basement of my house,never heard anything bad about the caustics of Stewart Systems.My friend rebuilds Super Cubs and its the only system he will use..........

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Posted

I covered my flaps and ailerons and even did the brush coats in the basement of my house,never heard anything bad about the caustics of Stewart Systems.My friend rebuilds Super Cubs and its the only system he will use..........

Thanks, Thats very good to know seeing as I'm doing it on my enclosed porch

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Posted (edited)

Robert,

I think you made a wise choice by going with Stewart system. The best part I experienced was that I no longer had wet glue all over my hands and other places, and no more MEK cleanup - just water.

You might consider taping some kind of filter over the window where your fresh air comes in. Don't know about your location, but down here there seems to be dust and pollen everywhere and you will see it in your paint job.

Also, for tube painting, a detail gun doesn't waste as much paint as the big gun.

The only thing I did not like about Stewart was that you had to put on so many coats, but that is a minor thing. The first try, we did not open up the paint flow on the gun enough, but later learned how to do it better, and the J3 has about the nicest paint job I have seen.

Please keep us posted on your progress and results. (notice, I didn't say "mistakes", but that is educational too.)

Ed in MO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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