cliff

The Champ is in my hangar. Our Dream Avid project has faded. No time, Less patience, and a  Fully Restored L-16 Champ to fly, equales a good deal for some one.

No paper work, just a collection of parts. There are some build pictures somewhere. The fuselage came from a guy who was on here years ago, He bent the landing gear and sent it out for repair. While it was being repaired he decided to buy a stretched one from Airdale and put a Jabiru on it. He sold his repaired fuselage to a friend of mine and I bought it from him. I bought some stuff from Snaps. The speed wings came off N90JW and have the thick spars, I had to measure them when I ordered the extension kit from Brett. I am positive they are the heavy duty ones.  I don't have time or patience to part it out. It would be a very inexpensive way for some one to put a very nice plane together or make some money parting it out. 
 
This is a short list of  what we paid for some of the stuff:
 Mark 4 Cowl 600.00 new from Brett
speed wing extension kit 1100.00 new from Brett
KF 4 wheels, brakes and tires 400.00 used
Big tires on larger KF 1 wheels 250.00 new from Highwing?? I think
fuselage 1500.00 very nicely repaired by an A/I
Motor mount, cheek rads and hardware 400.00 used (from Snaps)
Speed wings, engine, prop, struts, Came on a flying plane that we upgraded to stol wing and a freshly overhauled engine. I figure we have 3500.00 in this stuff.
 
 That is what I can remember.  We bought this stuff over a 5 year period , at one point my brother and I sat down and figured out that we had spent well over 10k on everthing we had. We may have paid too much for some of it , but live and learn. 

Deal on Champ is done, Need to clean this stuff out. Any takers?

I didn't advertise it anywhere else yet. The Champ might be here tomorrow and we want this stuff gone asap. Here is a list of what is there
 
Complete Mrk 4 Fuselage with mixer hardware, wide doors, full insturment panel, all gauges, Seat cushion and door panels lightly sunfaded. new uncut cowl, motor mount, cheek radiators and mounting hardware, stab, elev, cabane struts, wing struts, speed wings with one fiberglass, right tank. I removed one wing tip to start the extension kit, new speed wing extension kit, KF 4 droop tips, strobes and powersupply, speed wing flapperons, Nice bagage compartment with door, turtle deck, New anti inversion mixer arms, maule tailwheel, tailwheel  leaf spring, square rudder, tail wheel springs and chains, many exhaust parts, two 2 blade props, 2 spinners, One complete set of KF4 wheels tires brakes, one complete set of earlier larger KF wheels and brakes with new giant tires, 2 sets of brake peddles and brake cylinders, Stock landing gear, running 582 150smoh with B box,  two 532's with B box's time unknown, 2 starters, Box full of new rotax engine parts, KF 4  582 motormount, KF 1 9 gal header tank, KF1 insturment panel with all gauges, KF 1 turtle deck, KF 1 rudder, KF 1 busted up but repairable complete cowl, unused bungees that are 4 years old, KF 1 fuselage for partsbetn and butchered, One left hand KF3 wing strut. and much more
 
Everything is used, unless I mentioned that it was new and is in serviceable condition. Cleaning and painting of the used parts is required, No rust or corrosion is hidden by a fresh coat of paint, what you see is what you get. 
 
We don't have time to part this stuff out, would like to sell all to one person. 
 
NEW HANGAR CLEANOUT PRICE $5500.oo!!!!!! Buy this stuff and triple your money selling it as parts. 

I have the parts to cobble together a Mk 4. I was planning on doing just what you said. I don't have the time to finish it. It is for sale cheap.

We need to clear out the hangar for a Champ that my brother is buying. We need this stuff gone. Any offers?

sold

I check this web site a few times a day. I don't post much because you guys have all the answers. I will comment on my field of expertise, painting, but the rest of it , I am still learning. 

I have size 11 wide feet. I had to modify a pair of sneakers with a grinder so they wouldnt catch on each other. I almost ground looped a buddies mark 4 when my shoes locked together from the pedals being so close together. 

Called polyfiber this morning at 8 am est and got their machine. Got a phone call back at noon, product is on it's way. I have never had a problem with getting questions answered. Try again.  

I'll take the other side and play devils advocate. Twotter pilot is decending from jump altitude as fast as possible making calls, working hard to make the boss money. You are out flying for fun, possibly on an extended final at very low speed taking longer than necessary to land.  I always give the right away to larger, more fuel hungry aircraft when I can. If I was entering the pattern and heard the jumpers away call, I would know that I have 3 minutes to be on the ground and out of their way. If i I feel that I can't get on the ground with out holding them up I will communicate with the jump plane and ask them if they would like me to do another circut and let them land first. Many times they thank me and land before me and some times they tell me to go ahead and land ,they will give me some space. 
  I know there are some jerk pilots out there , but most will work with you if you communicate. 
 
 Many times pilots will be next in line to take the active and sit there for a while fiddeling with radios, gps, or what ever they  do, when you are next in line and you are wasting everyones time, it is very irritating. in a  twin Otter full of jumpers on a hot day is not a fun place to be waiting for somebody who is wasting everyones time. 
 
  Sometime pilots get on a power trip when it's their turn on the runway, they push other peoples buttons because they are a jerk or have a grudge against a certain type of flying. A little communication goes a long way. We should all work together to make the pattern work for all of us. Giving right away to a hard working guy flying jumpers , when we are just out flying for fun, can be one way to improve the pattern moral.
 
 I am a skydiver, I use to travel to many drop zones in my plane to go to different events. I have never had any issues with jump planes in the pattern. I listen to their calls and fit in when I can, almost always talking to the jump plane to work with them.

If the original black paint has good adheshion, use a wax and grease removerand clean it, then scuff it real good with a red Scotchbrite pad,. Blow it off and reclean it with the wax and grease remover again. Tape up anything that you don't want paint on and spray it with Bulldog adhesion promoter as per instructions. It is then ready to be painted any color you like.

+1

Epoxy is a primer.

If it was sand blasted, you didn't need to use an etching primer before the epoxy primer. I generally sand blast then go straight to epoxy primer. Almost all direct to metal epoxy primers have an etching acid built into the hardener. Infact some epoxy primers will not adhere to a wash type primer.

I have a pair of Kitfox 1 doors, also all the cowl pieces, dash, plastic header tank, engine mount for a 532, flapperon mixing system, rudder, and much more. I will be cleaning out my shed in the next month or so and will get an inventory of all the junk I have collected. If anybody needs anything let me know.

No. Flex agent is tempory when used in most modern paints. I have been told by a PPG rep that flex agents dry out in the first 90 days, leaving the paint brittle or only as flexible as paint with out flex agent. I did my own experiments after talking with a couple of tech reps at PPG. PPG makes a paint called desothane. It is specifically designed for fabric covered airplanes. The product is not available to anyone except companys that buy it in bulk and relable it and sell it for painting fabric covered airplanes. After some digging I was lead to believe that aue-300 and desothane are basically the same animal. I let some aue-300 dry in the bottom of a mixing cup and I let aerothane dry in the same size  mixing cup. When each sample hardened I popped out the hocky puck sized sample, labled them and stuck them on a shelf. Every once in a while I would pull the pucks down off the shelf and bend them and hold them against each other to see if one shrank more than the other or if one was more flexible than the other. After a 5 year test period I could find no difference between the two samples. Both were the same size and of the same flexibility. I am not a chemist and don't advocate or guarentee this paint to be crack proof for any one else. This was my findings and I have been happy with the results so far. It could crackup and fall apart after the 5 year mark but I am willing to take that chance.

Poly Fibers aerothane on the fuselage, poly tone on the wings. The yellow is PPG AUE-300 single stage polyurethane, very similar to Aerothane but less than half the price.

I sprayed my entire assembled wing with one good coat of epoxy primer. I just used an automotive product from my body shop. I have painted wood guitars over the years using  the same products with excellent results. There are a couple of guitars out there that we painted 25 years ago that still look like the day they were painted. My wings have been finished for a couple of years, so far so good. 
  I reduce the epoxy 10% to make it spray easier, might help with weight also.

I use SEM products in my body shop. Many of the adhesives and seam sealers are in a 1 to 1 dual cartridge aplicator. When I was getting ready to build my wings, I saved a few of the empty dual cartidges. I pulled the plungers out and cleaned them out with reducer. I then filled each half with the two different parts of the hysol. I put the plungers back in, and I had a fully loaded dual cartridge of Hysol. The SEM dual cartridge goes into a caulk type gun. You screw a mixing tip onto the end of the dual cartidge and when you squeeze the handle it mixes the Hysol in the tip. I had a perfect bead of hysol from the despensor. It did a beautiful job for me. When you are finished gluing, you just leave the tip screwed on to the cartridge, then next time you want to do some more glueing you just unscrew the tip, scew a new one on and start gluing. Tips are about 1.50 each. It makes for some quick and clean gluing.

Ed,
 
 I painted a Luscombe this summer.  I did all the work except disassembly and re assembly. Strip, dent repairs, prime, paint, and stripe. The mans bill was 7000.00. Materials were about half of the total cost. When I told you a price of 10 hours, that did not include any materials. A normal body shop will not have materials compatible with a fabric airplane. The customer will have to supply the paint. 

shop rate mutiplied by hours taken to do the job. If it comes sanded, taped, and ready to spray, a shop could have 10 hrs in it depending weather they have ceiling hooks in their booth. That is to paint everything the base color. In my current booth at my auto shop, I can hang both wings and control surfaces for the first batch. Fuselage,struts, and doors in the second batch and cowl gear turtledeck and the rest of the little stuff on the third batch. It takes a couple of hours to hang everything up, solvent clean it, tack and blow and spray 3 coats of color on that batch. Then after it dries you need to remove it from the booth and start the next batch. 
 
 The plane then needs to be reassembled where stripes are going to overlap and then the stripes layed out, dissambled, bag off the rest of the areas that shouldn't get paint on them , then spray the color. The more colors and difficult the scheme, the more time it takes. A simple 2 color stripe design can ad 10 hours labor minimum to a paint job. I would recomend keeping the paint scheme simple so he could do it himself with his small compressor. In PA the average body shop rate is 50 bucks an hour.