lv2plyguitar

This part came with my AVID when I bought it three years ago but have never figured was its for.  Do you have ideas?

True story. I have looked it over carefully. Still ground testing.  The sheet rock did not stop the prop.  It was the less dense light weight stuff. The engine did not even hesitate.  Serious but still makes me laugh. 

I started my rotax 912 ULS.  I can feel the tail wanting to rise much easier than with the Rotax 582.  I must say Im a little frightened to firewall it the first time out as I can feel the power difference just sitting in the cockpit ground testing.

That being said I was in the garage and started the engine for a brief minute and forgot about a piece of sheet rock leaning against the garage door in front of plane.  It was a good 5 or 6 feet away.  The prop sucked the sheet away from the garage door and hit the prop and sheetrock exploded all over the garage.  My heart sunk at first until I realize the prop was not even dented.  I saw it coming and killed the ignition before the sheetrock hit.  I laughed nervously for a while.    Lesson learned.

I really appreciate the concern.  Lets bring balance to the conversation though.  I spoke with Dean at Lockwood Aviation this morning.  Moving a coolant fitting 10 degrees either direction will not strip threads.  The main concern for moving those fittings is the type of Loctite used to put it together.  My 2007 model was sealed with Loctite 648.  648 is gummy and will reseal itself in most circumstances.  The newer versions use Loctite 243.  It becomes brittle like glass when it dries and if the fitting is moved the Loctite 243 will shatter.  In that instance the fitting would need to be removed, cleaned and resealed.  The easiest test is if you can turn the fitting by hand after it cools it needs to be resealed.  If it wont turn by hand with reasonable pressure then it is okay.  I will be ground testing the engine and if it does not leak under pressure everything is good.  Please note that I said 648 will reseal (depending on circumstances and how much the fitting is moved) when heated and cooled back down.  I appreciate the dialog and it forces me to go out and get the education so I am familiar with my engine.  With a 10 degree turn there is no way threads would be stripped out and blow out of cylinder head.  That being said I have ordered new fittings and will replace them if I see a problem during ground testing. 

Another case in point regarding balanced views is the fact that I had a valve sticking when I tried to turn the engine by hand.  To some it was catastrophic.  To the professionals who know the engine it is common when engine sits for a while or low lead fuel is used.  They told me to lubricate the valve and start the engine and it would clean itself up.  I was very happy to see that was in fact what happened.  The valve no longer sticks. 

Only a couple of the fittings were close so I experimented with it and everything looks good now.  If  problem arises ( I don't think it will) I can look at different fittings.

It is not leaking thankfully. 

Okay so I feel like a dummy.  I was able to tap the coolant fitting on the head and it turned enough to give me 1/4 inch clearance from exhaust.  So glad I don't need to solve this riddle anymore. 

Do any of you have pictures of BRS install where it either fires out the top or out the side.  I am installing a BRS and will be operating on floats most of the summer so it cant fire downward.

Thanks

One more question.  Where on your exhaust does the flashing touch.  My guess is the exhaust is hotter just as it exits the cylinder compared to maybe 6" down the exhaust pipe.  Just want to make sure we are comparing apples to apples.

Thanks

How thick is your aluminum shield.  Does it wrap around the fire sleeve.  Just plain aluminum?

It probably would.  I was in a big hurry to fly and just went with it.  Thought it would be okay but after thinking about exhaust temp's its pretty important to check stuff before I head out into the wild blue yonder. 

Man Randy,  I cant wait to get in the air again.

Can the copper actually touch the exhaust and be okay or will the exhaust heat burn through the copper. 

Yes I currently have orange fire sleeve around it.  And then I half wrapped the fire sleeve with a piece of stainless sheet-metal.  So the exhaust touches the sheet metal at one tiny point not a length of the coolant line.   

Copper is a great idea.  How do you accomplish the end connections with copper.  Do you have any pictures available?

I have a problem I need suggestions with.  I have coolant hose wrapped in orange fire sleeve touching the exhaust. There is no room to move it and no way to re-route.  Will that be a problem?  The only solution I see is to re-weld the exhaust if it is a problem.  What are your thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

Should be flying by Sunday assuming ground test goes okay.  I am skipping a scoop for now because the radiator sticks a little below cowling.  Ill see how it goes. 

Everything installed but oil pressure gauge. 

Can any of you tell me what the "R" terminal is used for on the Rotax 912 Rectifier.  If I understand correctly the R and Batt tie together with C and there needs to be a switch on C so the batter does not drain.

Thanks

TNT works well to.

A strong Magnet to move it closer where you can get to it?  

What does the common ground point tie to. Seems like ultimately it all ends up back to airframe. 

Sorry I am not an electrician.  I know what a ground is but don't know what a ground "buss" is.  That is a ground to like the frame right?

Here is a install picture.  Do you guys agree with it?

Okay so one wire to ground and 1 to c correct?