thebriman

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Posts posted by thebriman

  2. Posted

    Sounds good Bryce, may give me an excuse to fly somewhere else.  The closest to your neck of the woods I've flown is Baker Airport in Hohenwald a few years back.  And as far as the needles go, a soak in cleaner wouldn't hurt although they wont really be dirty, oil them as you reinstall them.  Yes you will find carbon built up on the underside of the piston, at least I did. 

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  3. Posted

    This is what I use:  3/4" inch foam backer rod, like what you place in a crack before caulking.  You place it in the connecting rod journal, place the 31 needle bearings around it in between the connecting rod journal and the backer rod, place the thrust washers on either side of the bearings ( you made the backer rod piece long enough to hold a thrust washer on either side of the connecting rod, lower the piston into position and push the wrist pin into place.  As you push the wrist pin into place, the backer rod will be forced out the other side.  You can even install the backside circlip in the piston first as the backer rod will scrunch down and pass through it.  once the wrist pin is in place install the last circlip and viola you're done.  

    In fact you need about 2 inches of backer rod.  If you PM me your mailing address ill send you a foot and you should be set for a while.  If you want to buy your own, its in the masonry section of your home improvement store.  
     

    2 people like this

  5. Posted

    Wow thats not bad.  When I built my gear, I elected to have it powder coated.  150 bones.  Guy said that the cost was to fire the burner in the oven more than the size of the workpiece sprayed.    

  6. Posted

    I have used Loctite 565 and 569 with excellent results, although EdMO's 545 is probably a better choice.  I just happened to have 565 and 569.  I have heard not to use PTFE tape because of the ability to create a hazardous stoppage.

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  7. Posted

      Leni,

     

    I just sent some money your way via PayPal.  Thanks for another year of keeping this forum up and running!  

     

    For those of you who haven't donated any money this year but want to, the details of how to send money are above in this thread.  I strongly urge those who frequent this forum to donate yearly to help Leni bear the costs of this site.  The small sum I sent Leni is nothing compared to the information I've obtained on this site.  I know I'd rather pay nothing but then again I'd rather this forum stay online.  Nothing is free.  Thanks again Leni for your time and effort! 

    2 people like this

  8. Posted

    If its tubing its most assuredly 4130.  3/4x.035.  3/4" is the O.D., .035 is the sidewall thickness.  to figure your I.D. you can take 3/4" or .75 minus your sidewalls (.035) being .070. and you get .68.  That's your I.D.   

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  9. Posted

    I'll never understand paying so much for something and working so hard on it just to let it die.....

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  14. Posted

    And I'll read a bunch of bush flying stories so that I can pass them on as my own.  Because of course there is SOOOOOO much bush flying to be done in Georgia!  :bsflag:

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  20. Posted

    The plate welded on you gear leg was for the brake plate.  Should be square with 4 holes, the bottom hole of which is most likely cut off.  This was for the old style Matco Brakes.  The old axles did not have the welded plate halfway down the axles, but were completely smooth and were retained by one an3 through bolt. The brake plate attached to the gear leg.  The welded plate on your new axles are for the brake plate on new Matco brakes to attach to. The AN3 through bolt takes the braking load into the fuse.

     

    I modified mine so that the plate welded onto the new axle not only holds the brake plate, but also attaches to the flange on the gear leg through holes that I drilled. I have it so it's all bolted together.  Also I have the through bolt at the back end but that is not my only means for attachment.  

  21. Posted

    Joey could you do me a favor and run a measuring tape on you elevator at the largest part of the cord, so I can compare mine to your new one.  I have a trim tab on mine but its nothing like yours, and I have the same issues that you used to have.  Im thinking I have the old style elevator and someone just added a little trim tab.

  22. Posted

    I just wanted to shout out to Leni on this Thanksgiving Day.  This forum has provided me with indispensable knowledge and ideas, as well as a place for like-minded (most of us anyways ;) ) folks with similar airplanes to share our ideas and experiences.  If Leni didn't take the time out of his days to keep this forum running, I wouldn't know half the things about my airplane as I do.  I'd probably have a little more cash in my wallet, as I would like to think I wouldn't be modding my Avid every time something new and cool pops up on here, but thats besides the point!  That being said, my Avid is a better airplane for it, and I'd like to think I'm a better pilot for the things I've learned and continue to learn here.  Thanks Leni for the work you do.

     

        

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  24. Posted

    Joey I had the same issue.  I used mounts from Mcmaster Carr to replace mine.  20% of the cost of Lord mounts.  Same fit and function except the threaded ends are 1/8" longer and need to be cut down on the front side to allow use of acorn nuts to secure panel.  Also the material is steel instead of brass if that matters to you.

     

     

    McMaster p/n:

     

    9376K15  (7 lb) I used these across the top on the panel.  $1.57 each

     

    9376K17  (20 lb) I used these across the bottom for more shear strength.  $1.97 each

     

    They have about 30 hours on them and my panel is solid as can be.