EDMO

Jamie,  I remember Randy's post and photo, but I don't think he described the process he used - My memory is not good now, but sometimes it is right.   EDMO

IMO,  You would probably break the four attachment bolts before damaging the steel 1.25 axles - They have been used on heavier planes than yours.  Not much difference in the 1.25 and the 1.5 axle strengths.   I don't know about aluminum, if that is what Matco makes, but I think the weakest part would be the attachment plate on the axle.    EDMO

An older lady lived in the house across the street, next to about 100 acres of vacant forest land, from the house I had just bought in 2005 - I had big dumptrucks bringing rock for the foundation of a circle drive I was going to put concrete on.  She told the older couple who lived next door to me that the trucks caused a tree to fall, (about 200 feet from her house and the street), in the forest.  I figured then that I might get a lawsuit for that or anything else she could blame on me, like a crack in her foundation.  Fortunately, it never came, but I never trusted her after that.  You never know how a lawyer will try to make money!   But, as Joey said, and what I have heard from others: "There have been no successful lawsuits against the seller of an Experimental plane."  

I wish someone would copy and post the EAA Liability Disclaimer Clause on here.  EDMO

Yes, ChrisB got it for a friend to put on a (Genisis?).  EDMO

I hope you can convince her that the liability clause will protect her, but that no part of the plane needs to be cut or destroyed - She only needs to check the "Salvage" on the registration and send that to the FAA, making it no longer a registered plane, and then selling all the parts, (even to one person), for less money than she would have gotten for a registered plane.  EDMO

I believe my Kitfox manuals say to sand any scratches on the spars with 100 grit sandpaper - I believe that sanding was also recommended in the places where you apply Hysol, followed by an alcohol wipe?  I would have to check the manuals for the exact instructions.  You probably only need to sand the high spots of the Hysol, and try the tanks for fit before gluing them in.  My 12 gallon Kitfox tanks only replaced one rib for each tank because Kitfox ribs are about 17 1/2" apart.  EDMO

Totally unofficial - But best I know is to keep it under 250F.  You can use a sander and not have to heat it - It don't have to be perfectly clean because the Hysol or Silicone will bond to the old too - I would rather use the Silicone caulk since it is easier to remove tanks later on.   EDMO

So does VGs under the stabilizer, according to Joey and others.  EDMO

I agree with Mark - If you have any doubts about a bill of sale with liability exclusion protecting the widow, then definitely get the EAA liability protection statement - scrapping a good plane for parts isn't necessary, and can cause unneeded problems and expenses for the buyer.  EDMO

Great pictures Joey - Congrats on a good 10th anniversary - 12 years ago I told my future Mrs. that I might only be good for about 15 years - She quickly told me that the minute I stopped being good, my time would end - and I don't think she was meaning a divorce!  ;<)  Now that you are back in Sunny CA, maybe you can measure those triangle tube openings for me.  EDMO

Photos might help - Most trim tabs I have seen have more nose up (tab down) than in the other direction.  EDMO

Attaching it here - This is old Kitfox 4 manual - It is possible that the "739" that TJay showed above may be used now? - anyway, this is what I have.  EDMO

I wouldn't say you would get a "chunk" of money for that spare engine - it depends on what it is - some with redrive have sold for as low as $1500, depending on use and what has been done to it, but the Stratus engines are worth more, and they are no longer made.  I have a spare EA81 that has not been modified and no redrive, and 31K miles on it, that I would take $500 for.  I agree with akflyer above, that Randy "Suberavid" on this site has demonstrated that the Stratus EA-81 is a very good performing and dependable engine that he has been flying in Alaska for several hundred hours.  EDMO

Price seems a little high at first, but he is accepting offers - With the $10K Stratus engine and a spare, which you could probably sell, and with the necessary fuselage stretch it seems like a good combination.  I wouldn't exactly call it a Hanger Queen with 400 hours, and 35 hours since last conditional - seems more like a current, part-time, flyer to me.  I am a fan of the EA-81. as it should be good for 2000 hours, or more, before a cheap overhaul, and you don't have to learn all the delicacies of flying with 2-stroke engines.   EDMO

Shops usually stock core material, and I think they just cut it to size and solder on your caps - Try getting a quote from them first.  EDMO

I have had truck radiators recored, but that was the old type - They just removed the end caps and soldered in a new core. 

Donno about the (stainless?) type you have.  I'm with Leni - "If it don't hold air, it wont hold water"!  EDMO 

Thanks Doug,  Yes headaches are better - tinnitus is not.  I would have to measure my box, but sure it is more than 24" square.  Aren't there some kind of boats coming across the Lake from Canada to you?  EDMO

Any Auto Radiator Shop should be able to repair it.  EDMO

Doug,  If you nestle the two halves together, it should not be too big for Greyhound - I got a Magnum set of boot cowls thru Greyhound in a huge box.  What about UPS or USPS, (Canada PS)?  I know that USPS charges an extra $50 for oversize packages, which puts them near the UPS rates.  EDMO

That "Fox Tail" logo really impressed me - He has both talent and imagination - Maybe should major in Graphics Design?  Wish him success!  EDMO

TJay,  Here is a page with some line drawings for different configurations of Kitfoxes - The drawings don't have to be very detailed - You can copy, edit it to what you need, and print something for him.  You probably don't want the wheelpants?   He may want you to add some measurements too - like wingspan, length and tail height?   EDMO

The FAA (I think) requires a line drawing of your plane when papers are submitted for registration - Maybe 3 different views, Front, Side & Top?  I think that is the same that he wants.  You can hand draw this, or use one out of the manual.  I probably have one you could copy.  EDMO

I know at one time Kitfox extended some of the cabin tubes to put the firewall about 1" farther away from the seat tubes.  I don't see why you couldn't extend the tubes in front of the forward door frames to do the same for as much as you need.  You would also have to extend your rudder cables.  And put more slant on the windshield, like Kitfox did on the model 4, and maybe extend your cowl like Jim Chuk "1avidflyer" did by using a separate boot cowl.  This will change your W/B, so you may have to add more weight aft.  EDMO

Randy,  With the plates located at the end of your wingtips you wont have to worry about this, but as a CAUTION to others thinking of experimenting by removing wingtips and replacing them with flat plates on the end of the wings this might apply:  "The ailerons (same as flaperons) should not extend to the end of the wingtips because the vortex there can induce a flutter on the ailerons."  "The Design of the Aeroplane" by Darrol Stinton.  

Attaching a page of tip designs from his book that only deal with vortex and drag - nothing to do with STOL, as I understand it.  However, he does say that the wider the distance between tip vortexes the more lift is produced for shorter takeoff and slower landings, which is also the conclusion that long wings have more lift than short wings.  The "Finch" tips are in another book that is about drag and vortexes.

 EDMO

Welcome Steven.  I don't believe I have ever seen that kind of nose gear - I thought I knew about all of the different kinds for Avid and Kitfoxes.  Did you make the gear, or was that with the kit?

Ich bin American soldarten, 2 1/2 yaren im Bavaria, 1960 - 1962.  Klina Kinder Deutsch scrieben.  EDMO