EDMO

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Everything posted by EDMO



  1. EDMO added a post in a topic 900hrs. TT   


    Question: Are you using the real .090 LEXAN, or some off-brand? I'm hearing that the off-brands are cracking.
    ED in MO
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  2. EDMO added a post in a topic Best way to clean/prep spars for gluing   


    Scotchbrite and a quick alcohol wipe was my method - However, I used Hysol 9430 adhesive, which is what Kitfox switched to - Better check shelf life of your adhesive - 9430 is only good for 2 years shelf.
    ED in MO
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  3. EDMO added a post in a topic Blown tire   

    Anyone paint the stripe on their wheels and tires to indicate slippage? Thought this was standard procedure.
    ED in MO
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  4. EDMO added a post in a topic Master Switch Wiring   

    OK - Here is a copy from "Sportplane Construction" that will settle the question about the negative to switch for the battery solinoid wiring. The other best place to find wire, breaker and switch sizes is AC 43-13. If you want to read electronic articles written by Jim Weir for Kitplanes mag, go to www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes. I cant seem to get it working, but the October 2001 mag has the overvoltage relay article and schematic in it.
    BUT NOTE: This is not the same as the 60 amp breaker on alternater output that other circuits say you need.
    ED in MOSolinoid.pdf
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  5. EDMO added a post in a topic WHIRLWIND BLADES / WARP DRIVE PROPS   

    I called Dave K. at Warp Drive Friday, but guess they are gone for the 4th weekend.
    Left message asking when they are going to design a better blade, since Whirwind had beat them to it.
    Will post IF I get an answer.
    ED in MO
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  6. EDMO added a post in a topic Master Switch Wiring   


    Yes, good judgement. Jim Weir says a flashing red light will get your attention faster than a solid one. Believe there is a flashing one that is also about 1/2 inch and self-contained.
    ED in 107F MO (think MO stands for Mizery right now!) no AC in hanger, so no building getting done)
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  7. EDMO added a post in a topic Master Switch Wiring   


    The red light will let you know that you are only running on battery power and that the alternator is not on line.
    The voltmeter will not get your attention like the flashing red light.
    Personaly, I depend more on the ampmeter than the voltmeter, but think you need both.
    Thanks to Randy for getting my attention to the negative switch for the battery solinoid, and running a hot bypass line to the breakers/switches to ignition and fuel pumps.
    ED in MO
    Afterthought: I had a generator trash itsself in a 182 during my commercial pilot training when I was almost to the threshhold on a night flight to a short runway - lost all lights and electric flaps, that got my attention about as much as a flashing red light would have ! Not to mention that I had my instructor, the airport manager, and the President of Ozark Airlines on board. I finished the landing OK.
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  8. EDMO added a post in a topic Master Switch Wiring   


    Randy,
    I forget where I saw the schematic, but in addition to the breaker on the output, they also showed a big, bright, flashing RED LED light assembly hooked up to the breaker and put in a very visable place, to warn you that when the breaker trips that you are only running on battery power. Believe this light assembly can be bought at Radio Shack, or an eletronics supply.
    This may have been in Kitplanes "Aero Electrics" section, and that may have also been on the "crowbar" circuit. I think I have seen it other places, but dont remember where right now.
    Anyway, sounds like a good plan.
    If you need help on this, NORTHERN LIGHTS ELECTRONICS in Anchorage is the place to ask. JIM WEIR, The guy who owned it does the Kitplanes articles. If you get the scoop for this, please send a copy to me.
    ED in MO
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  9. EDMO added a post in a topic Sport Aviation   


    Didnt know you could get membership without the mag - thought mag was free !
    Maybe if enough refuse to take the trash-can mag, they will get the message.
    I will have more room in the trash after next renewal.
    ED in MO
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  10. EDMO added a post in a topic dont tell me I am the only one that pulls dumb stunts...   


    Nick, If I said the wrong thing here, then I apologize. Hopefully, I have worried more since saying this than you have.
    I hope that you and Leni know I was just joking, although it was in bad taste.
    I sure dont want to discourage anyone from posting their mistakes, as it could keep someone else out of trouble.
    Again, apologies for my bad choice of words. I think the heat was fogging my brain. No, it was not Bud Lite either!
    ED in MO
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  11. EDMO added a post in a topic MATCO BRAKE LINE SIZES QUESTION   


    I'm sure that if the outrer wall did not expand, there was not enough change inside to worry about.
    Spruce lists NNR at 1500, NBR at 2000, and some other "super slick" nylon at 2500 psi.
    I have a tendency to "build heavy & worry less. Guess I will go with the heavier of these.

    Thasnks,
    Ed in MO
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  12. EDMO added a post in a topic WHIRLWIND BLADES / WARP DRIVE PROPS   


    Randy was talking on another post, and mentioned reading the article, and stated that he would have probably gone that route instead of the IFA Ivo and saved a lot of money.
    I really posted this to let everyone know about this option. Maybe there are members who do not get Kitplanes mag, but I sure do recommend the mag.
    ED in MO
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  13. EDMO added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    WHIRLWIND BLADES / WARP DRIVE PROPS
    Randy,
    Your comment about the Whirlwind blades sent me looking for my July issue of Kitplanes mag.
    I had passed over that article because I had seen the high prices for Jim Rust's Whirlwind Constant Speed Props.
    After reading the article, I might seriously consider buying those blades to put into a Warp Drive Hub
    - but I saw nothing about warranty.
    Warp Drive has a lifetime warranty on their props. I have even heard of them giving A REPLACEMENT prop, IF the original was not performing well.

    The increase in performance over the Warp Drive blades was impressive.

    Maybe it is time for Dave K. at Warp Drive to wake up from his 100 year nap and design some new blades.
    Notice that Whirlwind makes the complete prop for rotax.
    Notice too, that the testing was in a RANS with a 912, which does not have the 100 mph "wall" that our AvidFoxes hit without the rib modification or VGs on the bottom of the wing.
    ED in MO
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  14. EDMO added a post in a topic MATCO BRAKE LINE SIZES QUESTION   


    Shoot! And I thought that hydraulics and physics classes were over for me ! Now, you and Leni have me thinking again, and that can be dangerous for me !
    I understand what you are saying about the pressure. Now I am thinking about volume in the little 1/2 inch bore MCs and transferring that volume to the caliper pistons. Appears that the flow thru 1/8 lines would be faster, requiring less pedal movement. Could I be right on this? Or does it matter not?
    After 5 minutes of serious thought - the same volume from the MCs would be needed at the caliper no matter what size line, so speed of flow would not be the factor - just flow of volume. Got it ! Another 5 minutes, and I'll have another brainfart - Better stop while still sober ! Thanks.
    ED in MO
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  15. EDMO added a post in a topic Master Switch Wiring   


    Randy, If you read my corrections, you are probably right on the negative switching. Otherwise, you have to run another hot from the bat to the switch and another wire back to the solinoid. I'm fairly sure that you only ran hot from bat to solinoid, and the negative up to the switch. Makes sense to me so you dont have an extra hot wire going a long ways.
    However, if you ran the extra hot from bat to ignition and pumps, you could use that and back to sol from switch, then a short one from sol to ground near bat. I like the negative switching better - one less hot wire to cause trouble.
    At least yours is real - mine is still in my head.
    Thanks.
    ED in MO
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  16. EDMO added a post in a topic Happy Independence Day   

    Military service in family from Colonial wars to present day.
    Just hope the dammed idiots that have the freedom dont burn my house down with their stupid fireworks they are now shooting (that are banned here) during our terrible drought !!!! SOUNDS LIKE A SMALL WAR AROUND HERE !!!
    Happy 4th to all who survive. And remember the ones who gave their lives for our country and our freedoms.
    ED in MO - waiting with water hoses and cel phone to call for help
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  17. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   


    Somewhere in the books it says, "aluminum heat-treat will be ruined if heated to more that 212F (hot water)".
    Believe that is in AC43-13?
    But, I do not know if his Douglas wheels are aluminum or steel.

    ED in MO
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  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   

    And, just to be complete: I could have mentioned that there are bearing pullers, threasded, slide-hammer, and hydraulic, that you could buy, but why spend money when you dont have to.
    ED in MO
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  19. EDMO added a post in a topic Sport Aviation   

    Agree totally - An old EAA member - paid the $20 extra to get "Experimenter" mag and then they changed the name, AND THEN, claimed to have "merged" it with Sport Assination.
    If I didnt get "KITPLANES" mag every month I would go nuts.
    KP is filed, SA goes in trash.
    ED in MO
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  20. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   


    They are usually cheaper at a bearing supply house, like Bruening Bearings. That is who the auto-suppliers buy them from, and jack up the price.
    ED in MO
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  21. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   


    The inner race should be easy. Clean the inside of the wheel and use a brass punch and hammer and keep going around the outer race until you drive it out. Put the new race in the same way, or, you can drive the race in with a tube or pipe that is slightly smaller. Schedule 40 PVC will work too, if you find the right size.
    A press will work too, but manual press is better - you can ruin a wheel with a hydraulic press.
    Something else that helps, is to freeze the outer race (the big one) before you drive it in, and the inner race (the small one) should be as warm as you can get it without torching it.
    ED in MO
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  22. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   

    Robert,
    This may be one time I partly DISAGREE. Heating the inner race on the axle MIGHT be OK if too much heat is not used.
    I would never put a torch on an aircraft wheel.
    Torching the outer race actually makes it tighter as it expands. Cast iron auto drums are a different matter. To remove a pressed in or shrink-fitted part, you normally heat the outside part and use ice or dry ice to shrink the inside part. This is done on nose forks by freezing the tube and putting the aluminum fork in hot water, then the tube can be pressed out.
    ED in MO
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  23. EDMO added a post in a topic TINTED WINDSHEILD QUESTIONS   

    Robert,
    Thanks for the info. One FAR used to list the minimum light transmission for windsheilds and side windows.
    When I put the lightly tinted bronze side windows and dark bronze sunroof in my Ercoupe, the IA at my next annual made me read a newspaper thru the side windows before he would pass them. This test is not in FARs, but practical, I guess. There is very little difference from the inside when looking out, but sure helps to keep the sun heat out.
    BTW: When I used to have Certified planes, my favorite FAR was 21.303(b), if I remember right. This lets "owner made" parts to be installed in a plane, provided that they are "equal to, or better than" original parts. It further states that the owner does not actually have to make the parts, but must cause them to be made. This was a great deviation FAR, IMO. Of course we dont need it for AB-experimental planes.
    ED in MO
    Edit: Forgot to answer your question: Most any plastic vendor can get smoke or other color sheets.
    There is a real cute Pink, if you are so inclined. HA!
    Sometimes you can get Lexan, and others may have Plexiglas which is less desireable until you want to break your way out of a wreck, then you dont want Lexan.
    Hopefully, you will never need to do that - so stick with Lexan which is less prone to cracking.
    I dont think that "off-brands" are as good as the original "Lexan", so try to get that brand even if it costs a little more.
    I used to buy my bronze from Cadillac Plastics, but sure that Grainger and other companies have the tinted sheets.
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  24. EDMO added a post in a topic Looking for some landing gear part numbers   


    Been a long time since I bought bearings, but normally the box contains, inner race, bearing cage and rollers in one piece, plus another piece which is the matching outer race. Dont think they are packaged seperately, as they are a matched set.
    ED in MO
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  25. EDMO added a post in a topic MATCO BRAKE LINE SIZES QUESTION   

    Never thought about 3/16 - Guess it works OK or you would have changed it by now.
    Thanks,
    ED in MO
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