1avidflyer

If you have your manual, you should be able to find the dimension for locating the lift strut brackets on the wing spars.  I'm not close to my manual right now.  Now that I think about it though, the manual is in the files and forms section.  

PS  I just looked in the online manual, and found the info you maybe need.  It's in section III,  chapter 2,  drawing # FW-1B.  There is shows that the dimension from fuselage end of spar to center of liftstrut attachment bolt should be 80"

Rubber has been used for many yrs for muffler mounts without real problems I think, but there is more than one way to skin a cat.  

Worst case, maybe drilling it out.  

What does your plane weigh empty?  An HKS would put out at least as much power as the 503.  Jabiru would do a lot more than the HKS.  Both would need a different motor mount though.  But a 582 might as well.  JImChuk

It didn't last long.  Good price as well.  

Doug, I sent you a private message.  Did you get it?  JImChuk

While I imagine the factory had drawings, they never sold plans to the public for any of the Avids.  There was/is a set of plans for a plane called a Raven, that was a copy of the Kitfox 1.  That is a long way from an Avid MK IV however, and from what I have heard, those plans are not very complete.  JImChuk

If it's not the type that you can set for different type engines, it would be the one for a points type 2 stroke engine.  Rotax fires twice for each revolution, it has a wasted spark at BDC. JImChuk

Wow, glad you got it home, but what a pain in the neck to have to go through.  JImChuk

I'm trying to figure out exactly what you are trying to do.  As it is, the standard cabane style gear doesn't load the seat truss, rather it pulls in from the sides and can buckle the bottom tube of the seat truss in compression.   (unless that is what you are referring to)  I actually think it's good to tie the seat truss to the center of the cabane.  A load on the seat truss pushes out on the bottom of the seat truss, just the opposite of what the cabane does. I think tying them together will help to cancel out those stresses.  I've actually done that on my Avid MK IV.    JImChuk

There are two types of EGT thermocouples.  With the one style you just drill a 3/16" hole in the manifold and the thermocouple  is held in place with a hose clamp that the thermocouple has been fit into.  The other style screws into a fitting that is welded to the manifold.  As I remember, the distance from the piston skirt should be 100 MM to the thermocouple.

got it and replied

I have an unused Avid heat box and a fiberglass radiator scoop.  JImChuk

With the double radiators, one will have hotter coolant than the other.  Therefore you would want to use the first one in the run.  As I remember, that is the one on the right (passenger)side.  Memory isn't always the best though.... JImChuk

Each one had good and bad points.  The heat muff I had on the 582 worked good for it.  With the 912 in the Kitfox, I have a thermostat (thermo-bob) and you run a bypass line off of it and go through the heater core with that bypass line.  When the thermostat opens, the coolant wants to flow through that larger hose, and you loose some heat.  When I do the next one, I will run the 1" line through the heater core (I have one with 1" fittings) and the thermostat will be down stream of the heater core.  That should do real well for heat then.  Trouble with the heater core, is everything gets so cramped for space.  Like 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag.....  JImChuk

There was an Avid Bandit that was something of a lighter weight MK IV.  Maybe that is what you have and someone nicknamed it a lite.  Kitfox made a Kitfox lite that was a single seater, also they made a light weight version of the Kitfox 4 call a Lite Squared   (2 seat)  JImChuk 

What engine are you looking to use a Magnum on?  That is a big prop.  If you are running a 912 rotax, you probably want the IVO medium or ultralight.  I do have an IVO medium 70" three blade IFA that I will sell.  You can private message me if you like.  Thanks,  JImChuk

I'm in northern Mn, so we see plenty of cold weather as well.  In fact, it's +16 F and we have 6" of snow on the ground right now.  The thing with coolant for heat, is when you want it the most, the engine will be cooled as well and have a harder time giving some to you.  The muffler will get hot anytime you are running at cruise rpm.   I do have a heater core running on my Kitfox 4, and it does ok.  JImChuk

I built a muffler shroud for my 582 muffler and it worked pretty good.  I ended up fitting a fiberglass "funnel" behind the radiator like Chris talked about in his last post to push air though the muffler shroud.  That did produce pretty good heat.  Had to put the muffler mounts on the ends of the muffler and hang it off the firewall, but that is a better way to hang the muffler anyway.  The tubing Avid used that hangs from the engine is subject to cracking.  Heater thoughts? - Technical tasks - AvidFoxFlyers Forums  have a look at this thread to see what I did.  This was before I connected inlet air to the back of the radiator.  That improved the heat considerably.  JImChuk

Lots of variables.  What kind of plane, what engine, ect, ect.....JImChuk

Did you compare my pictures with your plane?  JImChuk

Interesting, mine is 1176D.  On the FAA page, it's listed as being manufactured in 1992.  I believe that date is when it was registered with the FAA, not when the kit was built by Avid.  JImChuk

Maybe....  If you can show a picture of your door latch, the tubing just behind the seat where there should be a shock absorber for holding the door open, also a picture of the rear spar carry through.  Here are some of my Avid MK IV.  JImChuk

To the best of my knowledge, there never was an Avid lite.  Also, Avids serial numbers were in order, for instance, 805, 806, 807 which would have been C models.  When the MK IV came along, they added a D to the end, so a MK IV may have a serial # like 1234D.  I think the MK IV made it up to 1600 or 1700 serial number before they stopped being made.   But in the USA, when one registers a homebuilt plane, you can call it what you want, and make up a serial number.  Some traits of a MK IV is the door latch changed to being about 1/3 back on the bottom of the door, earlier ones were in lower front corner.  Baggage compartment, front of vertical stabilizer centered on the top of the fuselage, extra tubing just above and behind the seat to hold a shock absorber to hold doors open, additional gussets at rear carry through.  Your plane is extremely light for a MK IV.....  JImChuk  

Twice?  And I agree, it's beautiful!