wypaul

Thanks Joey, will you please measure the springs wire height and width while you have it apart. I am interested in hearing how the new spring works out.

I have one spring that is attached to the mixer. Next time I go to the hanger I will get a picture of the spring setup. One per carb would not work with the sort of cable arrangement the plane has. With the new cable it can be operated with springs in the idle return position, full throttle, or my preferred method of no spring at all.

Paul

Thanks for the update Joey.  I noticed that you did not show the cabane (vee), was anything done to it to beef it up in the new version?  Also was your first set of springs the yellow ones?  I have the Highwing version and it shipped with the yellow springs.  It did settle about 5/8" when the weight of the plane was on it but seemed somewhat stiff.

Paul 

That a look at CPS

http://www.cps-parts.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=142

Chris,

I will be the first to admit that I am new to the business of carb balancing so my views are open to change as I learn more about this. What the CarbMate indicated after balancing the carbs with the neutralizer spring in place is the balance remained in balance through the range of throttle movement with slight flicker to the right at one point. My guess is that the balance tube will handle that slight change. When I get a chance I will check with the Mate hooked to the primer lines and the balance tube in place to see what happens. One other note is that the spring does not neutralize the throttle springs totally but does reduce the pull substantially. The carbs will still go to full if one of the throttle cables going to the carbs fails. Will check to see what happens if the cable to the splitter fails by disconnecting it.

Paul

Good point on the full throttle AV8, saw your post after I posted above.

If you look at the picture that I posted of the cabane failure you can see that the cross tube failed and deflected downward.  I think the simple added tube may have stopped the fuselage damage but without actual testing there is not a way to tell.  One thing for sure the cabane, which is a truss, would be stronger.  I am sure that infilling the seat truss would have been more important is limiting the damage to my fuselage and that is in the works.

Paul

I have added the neutralizer spring to mine and would be interested in why you think that this is a bad idea.  My setup allows the carb springs to still maintain slight pull.  By the way AV8r3400 I didn't catch your first name.

I don't think that the engine would run good with 2 cylinders on one side doing the work.  My thought is to do what several others have done and buy the pricey split cable that ACS sells.  Others might sell this as well.

http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/search/search.php

I have the Jabiru 3300 on my Q-2 and the spring was removed so it works as a push/pull setup.  The throttle throw is very short and the movement of the throttle is short also, about an inch or so.  This could be increased but haven't seen a need to do so.  It now has over 600 hours and works great.  It has the standard friction aircraft cable.

Dang, I talked myself into ordering one today.

Doug I don't know why the Rotax and Jabiru are setup that way.  At least with the Jabiru it is a single carb so it won't shake the engine off the front of the airplane.  I wonder if Bing may require it or maybe the lawyers had a hand in it as was mentioned already.

Paul

Jim I see what you are talking about. Maybe a plate coming down from the seat truss that could bolt to the cross member on the cabane. I am going to do some infilling of the seat truss and also in the small triangle on the bottom just ahead of the gear attachment point where mine bent and kinked.

Have you purchased springs for your gear yet? If so did you get the springs that were mentioned in the Yahoo Group file from McMaster-Carr. My gear came with a stronger yellow spring(Die springs are color coded) and I am thinking that it may be a little to much spring. I did find the red spring at a better price here:

http://www.springsfast.com/part_detail_die.php?part=3193

Also I talked to Mark at Highwing LLC about the added king post in the cabane that we have been talking about. He is going to talk to Lowell, his partner but thought that it would be a good idea.

I think that Joey remove his bush gear but I am not sure. Maybe he would comment about his experience.

We have hijacked this thread, maybe we need to start another thread so the subject can be search easier.

I think that you will like it Randy.

I will take the release off of the tailwheel before I try this again. My first thought was to convert to the tri gear but don't really want to do that.

David I looked at the video of the Grove gear test and I am considering that route. What does it take to use the Matco wheels and brakes or are different wheels required for the swap?

I hate to give up on the spring gear but I really have all the experience I want repairing the fuselage. I will be doing some reinforcement of the fuselage while I have the fabric off for repairs.

I have some photos of KF brake setup with the MC mounted to the floor and different pedals. I would like to see what is working for others so I am not spending time reinventing.

I haven't quite figured out this new format and have trouble figuring out where to make the attachments yet so I will try this again.

Ok I have some more photos of the damage to the fuselage.

I wish I knew for sure but from what I know is that on landing as the plane was slowing down and then the ground loop.  I did bounce the plane a little on touch down so the question is was the gear damaged in the bounce or in the ground loop.  My thinking at this time is that the tailwheel released and caused the ground loops but I really have no idea.  I set the bakes so they were very hard to reach this time so I am fairly certain that I did not get on the brakes.

I have 800 hours in a Q-2 TD which is pretty twitchy on the runway, with no ground loops so I am baffled with the problems that the Avid is presenting.

Jim, that is correct.  In addition the bottom longeron was bent ahead of the gear attachment fitting.  Also as I mentioned the top member of the cabane cross member buckled.  I am not sure if this happen in the ground loop or if it happened in a slight bounced land.  The good news is that it stayed on its gear due to the wider stance and did not get the wing.  I am 2 for 2 on the ground loops/ fuselage damage and now thinking about the tri gear.  I will do some fuselage beefing this time to take care of the weak points in the gear and the fuselage.  I have a picture of the damage to the gear now and is attached.  The other pictures will follow. 

I think that the spring on the gear is to strong for the weight of the plane.  This is the gear sold by Highwing LLC but I think that the Airdale gear uses the same spring.

As you can see the cross member could benefit IMHO from a brace going from the top center to the center of the vee and also a heavier top tube making this a much stronger truss.

I was just talking to an engineer geek buddy of mine and he is going to run a stress analysis on the gear and fuse components for me to see if we can come up with solution. If anyone is close to their airplanes and can get some measurements for me today that would be awesome!

I need the lengths on the gear legs and on all of the components. So the width of the fuse at the gear attach points, the gear leg length, the length of the cabane struts for the vee and the strut coming off the gear leg.

It would be helpful to know the length of the slot in the strut for total travel allowed to so we can run the numbers on the spring compression and the loads put on it.

I think I have a VERY easy solution for the fuselage buckling depending on where the fuse is buckling at...

Any details you guys can give on the failures would be very helpful for me to give this guy so we can come up with a real solution to the gear issues, and not just use a TLAR shade tree solution.... No disrespect to the guys that have built their own on the TLAR principle, that is what he experimental world is all about! I am just trying to get a solution to a problem so we dont bend any more birds from a faulty design

Leni, I have the new spring gear and the bent fuselage.  I was wondering if you have any progress on your idea for a fix.  I have the fabric pulled away and can get a good picture of the damages tomorrow.  I had hoped that the cabine vee would help carry the load but the side to side bar, top of the vee buckled allowing the side of the lower fuselage tube to buckle inward.

Paul

Just completed carb sync on my 912 again this time with the CarbMate.  Last time I built a manometer and spent a couple of unpleasant hours getting it sync-ed .  This time spent about 15 min and it was a breeze.  If you go this route save your money and don't bother with the Rotax hose kit that they sell for about $60.  You can adapt your own with a couple pieces of hose you have at your shop.

Paul

Looking forward to your performance results. 912 comes in almost 100 pounds lighter. Is your engine the 80 horse version?

Yes, 80 HP 912. We will start having calmer day here before long and I can get back to the phase 1 flight tests.

I'm still curious what a mark IV with the 912 empty weight is. Is it 50 lbs lighter than a sube? is it 100 lbs lighter? And how does this translate into performance? Anybody out there reading this actually flying one? Cheers gents.Ben

My MKIV with the 912A weighs 616 empty. I only have 1/2 hr on it so far so no number to report at this time.

Paul

Hi all, A while back, I ran accross a Kitfox 1 kit that had very little done on it. I ended up bringing it home today, I don't intend to build it at this time, more likly going to roll it over and hopefully come out just a bit ahead on the deal. Not sure what will be best, part it out or keep it togeather. So far, it seems I'm missing the doors, and the elevator push-pull tube. The guy is going to look for them, so maybe they will still turn up. Anyway, that's the story for today. Here are a few pics. Got quite a few boxes of small parts, didn't put them on the floor with the big stuff for the pics, but it seems like most if not all of that stuff is there. Take care, Jim Chuk

PS last 2 pics of the wheel hubs and brakes. Never saw brakes like this before, anyone familar with them?

Jim the brakes are Airheart brakes. I have them on my Q-2 and they work well if mounted so they float properly.

Here is a link to their website:

http://www.airheart-brakes.com/

Paul Spackman

Boone, NC. The aircraft is in Wyoming. It seems like a solid aircraft, hopefully I will get to drive out there in 2 weeks or so. Any purchasing advice? Any particular things to inspect and look for?

I live in Casper, WY and would be happy to look at it with you if I am free to do so. Let me know when you plan on being there and I will see what I can do.

Paul

Correction on name of show: It is "Wild West Alaska". I saw the ad again last night.

Jim West designed the "Co-Pilot" as a Marlin 336 Takedown model, with the pistol-grip stock, and the big "John Wayne" Lever so you could work the action with heavy gloves on. Corbon made a real hot "bear-killer" cartridge for us and tested the barrels with it. There are many options available for this gun.

I made the prototype of the "Ghost-ring" rear sight for them, and there are internal action improvements too.

Mine is a little different - It is the G-model with a ported barrel, and satin stainless plating. I sent the stock model to Fagen in Missouri and they made the Green-Brown Laminated stock blank for me.

ED in MO

Interesting Ed I worked with this guy(Jim West) back in the early 80's here in Wyoming at a rathole drilling outfit.

The only thing I have heard positive reports on is CASWELL - Not used it yet, but motorcycle buddy has.

$40 per tank, I think.

ED in MO

I used the Caswell sealer and would recommend it. I have not used fuel with alcohol but this stuff will stand up. The mix is critical so get one kit per tank. I used one kit for two tanks but the mix was a little off and it took several days to setup. I do have a ongoing test with 1 1/2 years of the epoxy soaking in Gasohol and it is holding up.

Here is a link:

http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

Paul S

Does anyone know where I can get the engine mount rubber isolators for the AVID. The ones I have say "LORD" on them with the number 70 and the number 11 91.

Thanks

Here is a place to look, hope it helps.

http://www.ultralightnews.ca/enginemounts_uslk/

Paul

Anyone else having problems with the forum. Looks like some form of attack.

So if I buy a larger spring for a cub, lets say a three leaf, are the leaf supposed to be welded together. I think they come loose. I would only use two. The single bolt sticking out of the bottom of the frame is only long enough for one spring and the groove that it lays in is only 1.25.

I have been trying to get a hold of Brett but he will not answer the phone or return my emails.

Thanks

I have been trying to get a hold of Brett myself to place an order for the Bush Gear, gave up and ordered them from Highwing LLC.

I put an inspection ring in when I covered the fuselage. You can add one now and touch up the paint or another option is removing the horizontal stab. and fishing in a new longer bolt.

Paul