wypaul

I have the vent up through the right butt rib which is also my fuel gauge.  I tried several arrangements for the proper bend and direction of the tube to make this work.  The first was a "candy cane" shaped tube pointing to the wingtip which was fun to watch as it vented fuel as I flew along.    Next a ram tube to match the shape of the vent in the fuel tank lid, this worked but pushed the fuel down in the tube so that the gauge still would not function while in flight.  Finally I angled the vent at about 30 degrees off centerline and now I have a vent and a functional inflight fuel gauge.  The down side is that it only reads right at 5000 RPM (912) but by playing with the angle it can be set for any RPM.  I am still looking for a vent arrangement that will work for any RPM.

 

My vent is about 8" above the wing. 

 

If anyone has used this vent arrangement as a fuel gauge and found a tube arrangement that works throughout the RPM range I would like to hear what you have.

 

I will get some pictures when I get to the hanger if anyone is interested.

My MK IV has the radiator below the oil pump and it works very well.  Here are some pages out the  manual .  I guess I did not take many pictures at that stage of the build.

http://youtu.be/j9qPswXct1Y

Thanks for a look into your world.  Wow, with all that space seems like they could have slipped your Avid in there so you could play in your downtime.

I remember my CFI drilling me on almost every take-off, push the nose down and  land straight ahead if you are below 500 AGL with a power failure.  The accelerated stall caused by the turn is a unforgiving killer.

Larry here is what happens with the same video for me.

Ok, it worked this time, first time that I know of and I have done it the same each time,

I built the cowl for my Q-2 using a Kevlar sandwich that you are suggesting Ed.  The one bad thing about Kevlar is that if you try to sand into it you get the "Kevlar fuzzies" which are hard to deal with.  The fibers stand up and resist being tamed again without covering them with a buildup of glass or micro.  This probably is not an issue for a tank where cosmetics is not that important.  Oh and it does take special shears to cut Kevlar.  All that said I am happy with the cowl but there was a few times I questioned my choice of the Kevlar sandwich when making changes to the cowl.

Sounds like that should work well, let us know how it goes.

I looked at vinyl ester resin for coating the inside of my tanks before I built my wings but did not find any info about how good of a bond could be made between vinyl and the polyester.  Do you have some info about that?  I decided to use phenol novolac epoxy to coat the inside of the tanks because I was able to find plenty on information on that.  It would be good to know about vinyl ester resin

 

For the new tank are you planning to glue it to the spar like the original tanks?  If so I don't think you need to worry about removing the bracing.

 

For the new tank I would suggest using a couple of coats of neat VER after the layup to be sure that you don't end up with pin holes leaks, I fought those on my Q-2 tanks, and of course remember to test it before installing.

 

Maybe Ed would know about bonding VER to Polyester???

You are going to need those bush wheels with the size of the boulder field you are in

I will try this again.  Do you know this guy, there is a picture of you and your plane at Mile High on one of his videos if I am not mistaken Joey.

 

http://youtu.be/GBpP_of0ARc

 

Edit: Well crap, I just don't get Joey.  I think that I followed your directions and this is where I end up.  Oh well.

The "insert media" button is not available for me, seems like the rest of the buttons are there.  Any thoughts as to why that is the case?

I have tried to figure out the embedding videos from YouTube but I do not seem to have the Icon mentioned in the thread about this.

I feel for you man, good news is that it's repairable and you are OK.

Ok, there must be supin in that yeller paint.  Here is another one.

 

 

 

Yes the GU canard did not like the rain but the problem is solved with VG's.  I flew mine without them for the first couple of years and you could feel the moisture even before you would see with about 10 lbs of extra pull on the stick.  I never had to try and land it in the rain but you would need to be hot at around 100mph to keep the canard flying.  Not much rain to worry about in WY so I got away without the VG's for that long.

I haven't been flying the Q-2 much since I started building the Avid but it does handle 45 kt winds that we get here in the winter.  It is also nice for traveling any kind of distance in a hurry with the 150 kt cruise.

Sign my Avid off to Phase II this week.  I spend the work days in the oil field delivering pipe so guess where I spent three hours flying today, yep flying over the patch.   Well it hard not to with a big part of Wyoming producing oil and more to come.
 
Here is a picture of the two planes I've built so far, thinkin about what to build next.

This is way to funny, probably worth getting fired for.

http://www.deadline.com/2013/07/fox-affiliate-ktvu-apologizes-for-racist-asiana-airlines-pilot-prank/#utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter

Larry I guess I didn't take any photos but what I did was to install a 1/16" plate of 4130 at each end of the seat truss (about 4 x 6") and a small triangular piece of 4130 over the small triangular section of the floor area just ahead of the front gear leg attachment point. Also filled the first two triangular areas at each end of the seat truss and the mentioned small triangle with 1/4" plywood. Total weight of about 1.5-2.0 pounds. My guess is that with the bush gear and the beefing it still weighs about 15 lbs less than the Grove gear.

I am down to under 10 hours left in Phase I. Ventured out over the mountains today for a couple of hours early this morning.

 

How are the TW repairs coming on your plane. 

Joey, do you have some pictures of your gear on the plane after they failed?  I've dropped mine in since the fuselage being beefed up without any problems.  There is no evidence of the springs bottoming out but maybe I will build a tattle-tale to see what the max movement is on a bounced landing.

Nothing special but they do have to be the right height and width to meet the FAA requirements.

I had a friend do mine but any local sign shop can make them for you.

 I think I might have flown with this guy once.

Thanks, sounds like a good method.