wypaul

No Avid/VW experience but flew behind a Rev master 2100 in my Q2 for a few years. HEAVY,HEAVY AND HEAVY.  WHEN I removed the engine from the plane it weighted 200 lbs without oil not so great for 65 hp. Hapi had issues also.  I would not waste much time messing with that engine and just put the Rotax back on it but that’s just me.  I’m guessing the w/b will give you enough info to make your choice. Seems like there is always a bit of a market for those old VW engines. 

I installed a set of those on my friends Rans S7 and they are working as advertised.  I would use them on my plane if I needed new ignition. It does take a bit of time and hoop jumping to get them but well worth the money one saves.

Kind of quiet around here this is from a couple of years ago, headed back to Wyoming from Idaho. 

A double rod door latch that catches both front and rear of the door, super Cub style.

Good to know,

My first Walmart one is still doing fine, 300+ hrs.  Wow almost doubled in price in two years. 

Wow Larry with all the electronics in these modern vehicles that must have been a major ordeal.  Glad you were able to get it back home!

I’ve been running 1/4” on my avid for the last 10 yrs feeding 100 hp. Engine without issues.  I would suggest tapping a third hole in the top of the header for the fuel return if you are planning on a 912 Rotax, not sure if a return is also mandatory on other Rotax engines to help reduce vapor lock

UPI also sells three speed switch but they are NOT COMPATIBLE with the fan, use a good toggle switch.  To build the air box fiber glass works great. Cut a piece of foam insulation (1 1/2”) thick to fit the top, duct tape over it tapei the sides of the heater core and then fiberglass over it. I use epoxy resin but polyester will work ok.  Bidirectional cloth works best. Once the air box is complete remove the foam and tape, cut the fan opening and bolt the fan to the box.  A diode across the leads of the fan was necessary with my installation due to a large back emf spike when the fan starts.

Mounted mine under the panel with an aluminum deflector to direct the heat off my shins.  Sorry I don’t have any pictures of the build or installation.  I tried some computer fan but not enough air flow.  The above fan has plenty of flow.  No valve is necessary on th water lines.

https://www.universalpartsinc.com/shopping/productdetails.aspx?i=1064994&c=12484

https://www.universalpartsinc.com/shopping/productdetails.aspx?i=751353&c=10556

here are the things I used for my Avid with a 912, should work with the 582 also but no firsthand knowledge.  The radiator core is from NAPA.

Another picture. Almost ready for paint which happen this morning.

Well after ten years and several mods to my current panel it is time for a replacement.  I design new panel (with my current layout and had a friend cut one out of aluminum which worked out great for the layout but didn’t have te finished look like the original.  So after removing the old butchered panel I ended up making a foam plug to layup the new one. (Picture included). 
The panel is complete, cutouts made and in primer nut no pxs today, tomorrow I’ll shoot the Concept paint if all goes well and pictures to follow.

I have the old panel out and can make a paper tracing if anyone needs to build a new panel for themselves. I did think about making a mold so others could be made but decided to take the one off approach. Looks like I’ll have about ten hours in it from start to finish not counting removal and installation. 

Have you checked the Service Bulletin on the GSC prop?

https://www.gsc-systems.com/ppg-propellers-technical-information/

The problem is Rotax changed the mount points on the newer engines gearbox. I had the same issue when I upgraded to a new 912ULS.  I simply enlarged the holes so that they would fit.  600 hours no issues. On my friends new engine we egged the holes as described and then welded the hole to make it round this was about a year before I did mine.  Get a burr in a dye grinder grind the hole oval so you can bolt it up and go fly or fill the rear part of the hole by welding if it makes you fell better.

Not with 2stroke but I like using it on my 912 ULS WITH after market EFI.  It works great with mixture control, I look at it and not the EGT except to trim the cylinders.  Not to sure how much value it would have over EGT without mixture.

Nice!

http://www.airheart-brakes.com/

Yes wing tanks both wings.

Those are ones built for the Back Country Super Cub.  The ones I use for my Avid are made of wood and use four inch cargo straps for slings, sorry I don’t have any pictures of mine but pretty easy to build. Made them to come apart for easy storage.

Simple enough to remove the wings and put them in a rack.  That is the way I would do it anyway.

Iridium plugs.

Are you still using 105 lacquer thinner for poly reducer?  I have been doing that for a while after reading you post about it with good results.

I guess I’m set for poly tone a friend gave me several gallons of products some unopened. Cub Yellow will be my color of choice it appears if I repaint my plane. 

Glad to see someone do that T J nice work.  I bought the trim to try that for my gear legs but never carried thru.  Ended up just glueing an 2 1/4” X 1/4” strip on edge on the trailing edge of my gear leg, covered while covering the gear leg.  It of course ends up just a taper with the blunt 1/4” trailing edge.  This is the lazy man’s solution but I did pickup a few miles per hour in the gear leg cover.

Great job T J and the videos really make great tutorials!