IFMT

Do go away just yet. Where do I find info on sube ea81 failures. I'm flying one with no problems but I'd like to know potential problems. Thanks.

10 mm from spruce is garbage. Go with the 1/2 inch aircraft grade. 8 wraps even spacing on wide gear. Can't remember the total length eye to eye but 110 inches comes to mind. To tight and you bend stuff, To loose and the suspension sags. Check old posts on here as this has been hashed out before.  Use a set of spark plug boot pliers to pull on the cord. Cheers. B

Thanks for letting everyone know. I often refer to this wealth of info to get a better grasp on what is going on. Really good info for anyone who flies. Cheers.

726#. Soob ea 81, airdale wide gear. 20 pounds ballast at the tail. Mark4 HH.

...get my gun, tripped over a ....

Get a small hand pump oil can. Fit a 1/8 clear line to it and the bleeder down below at the caliper. Open bleed screw at the master(pedal). Pump the fluid up from the bottom to the master cylinder. Type F auto trans fluid has been used if you don't have aviation hydraulic. J 13 I think. Never use brake fluid.

I agree with Ed. The court house just scares me anyway. I didn't read the story but if the guy who screwed up had any balls he would just come clean. Now having ground looped once myself I can say fixing that wing is doable. Just a real big pain in the ass(checkbook). Gentlemen.

Call the cattleman's association!

Who the @#$% has time to be on 20 forums? Cheers. 

You made me laugh...thanks!

I might accept steel gussets if it's done right. The change up truss from airdale is way beefier than the original. I would have to measure it again. More bracing as well. Cost around 200-250 for the piece. Getting it tig welded in was the big expense.

Always due the seat truss upgrade if you change the gear. Wide gear exerts a greater moment arm and thus your seat will get way lower with a little harder than greased landing. Just get the heavy tubing change up. Plywood glued in isn't worth the effort. Do it before the fabric. 

That looks like standard Avid gear. I put the wide gear on and it helps. Bigger help in keeping it straight is lock your tailwheel pin! Check airdales old site,http://www.airdale.com/widegear.htm

Dholly said it eloquently . Everyone is accepting to much s#@T. Make it cheaper. Regulate me to death. Give me a job and over pay me. Wait a minute! You owe me! The modern world is real weird. I do buy some limited items from spruce. Be sure you know what you are ordering. I bought some "3/8" bungee and it was not at all what I expected. Not life altering but still a waste. Old time value has been replaced with crap. B

Thanks for the interest Ed. The ea71 is the 1600cc. The only dimension I can find through internet part searching is the bore at 92 mm. Same as ea81. 1600cc has shorter stroke. I know the simple answer is to take the .040 off the heads but then I have to make another manifold. I saw that RAM sells manifold adapters. I want to keep my 2 barrel carb set up as I already have it as it works. I do have carb heat but with the stock manifold I can't say I've ever needed it. Another thing with the carb heat and the stock manifold is that I can't tell any difference with it on or off. Not like an aviation engine where the RPM drops with carb heat applied. Might help the HP with dense cold air. What is the size of the 'bigger' valves. The engine I want to rebuild will need a complete going through. I see it was opened up before and whoever did this was sloppy. Pistons switched left and right and wrong washers under nuts on heads. I'm a licensed heady duty mechanic. I know that doesn't mean much but I do understand attention to detail and building this things absolutely right. I'm going to order a set of the 71 pistons and try it. Where is the extra groove on the cam. This engine is hydraulic lifter.  Cheers.

The kitfox 3 leaf is 1 1/4 wide versus the 1 1/2 avid. You will need to bend a shim to wrap around the kitfox spring to make it work. The geometry will be off on the avid so your wheel will not track neutral. I bought one and tried it but I wasn't satisfied with the result. Went down to the local machine shop and got a heavy duty one bent. Used the old avid single spring as a backer for it. I have a lot of extra weight on the tail to counter my soob engine. Have not had trouble since.

Same bore. Wrist pin position is different. I don't have an ea71 piston to compare. Hoping somebody has actually done it. Talked to Delta cam to get the 250 cam grind and the tech said I could shave .020 on the heads and the intake would still fit. Just thinking if the piston switch works it may be a better way to go.

Any of you soob guys know anything about ea71 pistons in ea81 to up compression? I read that this will work and no shaving the heads. The intake manifold will still fit right. Finally getting around to refreshing a spare ea81 I have. Thanks.

 Thanks Leni. I know I'm not the only one who's checks this site every morning for the latest. Cheers

I have a MKIV mount for a 582.

Good day Bandit. How much $$$ for your 582 mount? Thanks

Be sure to tie it down by the mains and tailwheel only. Be thorough and tie the main wheels together to prevent spreading. What ever you do...do not put a strap over the fuselage to tie it down. This will be a sure way to bend it down. Seen it done twice. Think about cushions where the flaperons are against the tail and make some boards with foam to keep the rudder straight. Good luck. B

Sounds a little like the Yukon right next door. We just have a whole lot more useless government and greens along with the natives who don't want to see anyone do anything. Welfare at it's finest!

Hello Ed. Disconnect the hot lead onto the alternator. If it still goes dead it's not the problem. Simple test. Check the glove box light to make sure it's out. Get that battery tested. You never know. Cheers B

Burn It! 

Good day Herman. I had the same problem. Hard landing and the gear bottomed. What happened is the safety cable actually cut the bungee off as it was over the bungee. I ended up with one gear with the bungee cut and the next bounce or bump caused the safety to break. Had to replace the blades on the prop and bent the seat truss down but got lucky otherwise. Bought the heavy duty seat truss from Brett and got it tig welded in. Not to bad a job but still takes time. This time around I used heavier cable  and put it under the bungee and looped through where the support strut comes up on the gear leg. This way there is no chance the bungee can get cut off under the safety cable. You don't need double bungee. You need the right size bungee of the right grade with enough wraps for your gear. I have the Airdale wide gear with the reinforced truss and a heavy sube on the front. There is not enough room to put double bungees in anyway. The plane should sit just nice with the right amount of wraps at full gross. Don't over tighten the bungees as this leads to no suspension and over stressing everything. Let the plane down to point where you still have adequate prop clearance  with the tail up. This will determine the right maximum safety cable length. I hope this isn't to confusing. I'll try to get a pic when I go and sweep the snow off today. Thanks Bernard (pronounced Bernerd, I'm not french. lol)

Thats cool! It looks like your rad is quite a ways back. I have a dave johnson reduction on my soob and the rad is in front of the main gear. Had to add 20+ pounds to the tail to get it in cg. My empty weight is 726. I need 500 feet to get off the ground with full fuel. What is your empty weight? I'm wondering if moving the rad back would be worth the effort. Thanks