IFMT

The DC 3 does in fact turn with the wind. Here is a link about it: http://explorenorth.com/library/aviation/cf-cpy.html

Cheers B

You guys are talking about my home town!  Ed, I'll take your suggestion to the mayor. Next time we're getting drunk that is.

You have to like a girl with no tattoos!

Isn't the Magnum 1750 gross. My buddy just sold his and it went down south. Much bigger airplane than a mark 4.

Magnum wing is longer. Many run the 150 horse O-320.

I'm starting to think my skid ball is causing some of my grief. The skid ball seems to always be off to the left when parked on the ground. I noticed when taxiing the other evening that if I straighten the ball while still on the ground it puts me into a gentle left turn. Going to check it by levelling the wings at the tips. I've got a cheap laser level that i'm going to set up and take a reference at the outside flaperon hinge. The way I have always levelled the plane for adjustments has been across the bottom of the door opening. This might be the root of my weird left turns, fuel emptying from the right tank first and who know what else. Don't get me wrong. The plane doesn't look bent but I'm starting to wonder if there is some subtle twist. Cheers B

I am sorry as well for lostman. I am curious if anything has been released about the cause of the engine out. B

I know everybody with a Matco won't go back to Maule. Right? I went out tonight and did some high speed taxi practice on a friends pasture strip. Pretty rough. I run the maule with the lock/release cam removed. That helped a lot when things are not going straight. Anybody notice huge handling improvement going to the Matco? I'm carrying extra weight for my soob up front. Had to really get beefy with the springs to take the lickin. Double spring, extra heavy duty.

The spring is nothing to special. A piece of old trailer spring cut to the right length. Use the hole where the center bolt went through. A good bit and slow drilling speed will drill through spring steel. Use a grinder to shape the sides where it fits into the saddle. Probably take an hour for everything if you have a basic workshop. B

I used the concentrated heat of a plastic welder to soften the glue. Works not bad. Very much like a small concentrated heat gun.

Here are some pics of the seat truss mod on my Mark IV.

Here are some pics of my muffler. It's only about 2 feet long. Didn't have a tape. I guess it's a mini swiss muffler. Not real quiet but it does sound good!

Best value for your money is the aero classic 21 * 8*6 from desser. You will need tubes as well. They sit 2 inches higher than the ones you've got. Should help your angle of attack for take off as well. B

I took a quick look at the ridge runner specs. Very light empty and gross. I wonder if the gear would stand up to the heavier avid? I' pretty sure the airdale set truss is made of 5/8 tubing top, bottom and ladder supports. 

I did the plywood glue in when I first put the wide gear on. I cant say that I pancaked it but the plywood will give way a little at a time. The seat truss mod is WAY stronger than the original. At the stage you're at with no fabric to cut off I wouldn't fool around. I think the whole thing cost me about $1200 without fabric. The truss is cheap. The tig welding up here where I'm at was $100 an hour. Make no mistake...it takes skill to put the new piece in right. The cost of peace of mind. Maybe you are skilled yourself or specialized welding is more affordable where you are at. I'll get some pics of that as well when I get to the plane. B

I'll measure it up and get some close pictures for you.

I haven't bid on any aircraft stuff...not that I remember anyway. I bought the spinner from UHS in ontario. Around $200 for the kit if I remember. The plane came with the warp prop but I had to replace the blades after a bungee got cut by the safety cable. The rad is directly out of a VW rabbit. Cools it fine, even on long full power climbcout on hot day. I scavenge heat up through an inspection type hole in the floor. Not that great when it's real cold though. The thermostat doesn't let enough heat back. Thinking about redirecting the muff for the carb heat through a switchable door. The muffler is a custom built "swiss" made of stainless steel. Just google "swiss muffler" and you will get some views. I'm Bernard. But I'm not french so it's pronounced Bernerd. Cheers. B

Here are the rest of the redrive pics Ed. I hope you enjoy because that was one painful pain in the ass!

Okay, I have figured out a way to up load. Email the photo to myself, then import a scaled version back into my photos and then it will upload. Weird!

I'm still trying to figure out why I can't post a pic. Computer settings?

I am having trouble posting any pictures. Will try to figure it out later. Any ideas. I'm using a mac with the latest updates. 

I do have the Dave Johnson redrive. He didn't personally build this engine as I know the fellow who had the plane 0 timed it with the help of a local "professional". Pretty sure though that Mr. Johnson certainly masterminded much of what was done. I'll take some pics when I get near the plane and post for your perusal. I am currently using a 3 blade warp drive cut back to 68 inches from 70. Warp drive told me to set the prop to 8.5 degrees. I have yet to try this. I am slowly getting it together to build the 100 horse version but you know how it is. Time is precious. Sounds like you're not a fan of the "home made" diy dual ignition. I was going to follow the plans posted by Paul messenger(hope I got that right) about ea81 dual pickup distributer conversion. I was able to buy a dizzy already set up from a ch601.

I don't have anything fancy. Just a 2 barrel off of a 318 dodge. Works well though. My engine is set up very professionally by the guy who finished the plane. It has a carb heat system although I have never noticed any carb ice. Still has the stock heated intake manual. If you use a carb adapter plate make sure the bolts inside the adapter are not to long. I discovered mine were just a touch long when it developed a tiny coolant leak between the adapter and intake. I have thought about converting to a 582 but a total conversion would be $$$ and I'm not sure about the overall performance gains. 65hp versus the 80ish I have now. I'm not 100% sure about the cam I am running but I think it is stock. Emailed the guy who built it but he hasn't got back to me. With the 1.84 reduction it pulls about 4300 static with 8.25 degrees of pitch. To busy to rip everything apart so she has to stay the way it is for now.

The distributer I have is hal effect (no points) nippon denso. Single coil. I've got top line 8mm plug wires. Never misses a beat. I guess there are not many soob guys on this sight.

I thought I better start a new thread Ed. What specifically would be considered proper ignition maintenance on the soob ea81 with the nippon denso electronic distributer? Buy new every ? many hours. They are about $500 if I remember right. I bought all the stuff to do the dual LS 1 coil conversion with a dual pickup distributer but just haven't got around to it. Going to change my belt right away as well as it has been a few years. B