Avid Bart

I just sent a couple $$. Thanks for keeping the forum going and fighting off the Russian hackers!

Thanks for posting the news, TJay. Ed's posts were always interesting. I wish I could have met him in person. He will be missed on the forum.

I'm planning on flying my Avid in from MN this year.

There is a set of Aeroset 1100's on Marketplace in Northern MN that someone has for sale. They are mounted on a Kitfox.

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/684970306304588/

Nice work, TJay!

How did you determine each weight should be 600 grams? 

That's not bad at all considering the time savings. Your wings are turning out very nice.

Thanks for the video, TJay. Nice work!

I'm curious what it cost to have the parts cut out.

It is not a Solidworks format. The scans were done on an industrial 3D measurement system and the 3D format is not open and usable in other software. The best I can do is the bitmap images that I posted above.

It should be possible to import the bmp images into Solidworks and draw the parts. I have done this many times in Autocad.

Unfortunately I do not. The 3D image is not an open format that can be used for 3D printing. 

What plane do you need measurements for? I have an Avid C and Mk4 that I can measure.

Here are some images of the speed and undercambered ribs that I scanned in 3D and then converted to bitmap images. These images are very accurate with no distortion and could be used to make patterns. You will just need to have them printed at a scale where the spar center to center measurement is 27.5"

Speed_Rib.zip

Undercambered_Rib.zip

Nice job on the video! Which airfoil are you using?

Jim, thanks for the offer. I was able to get the measurements I need. Looks like about 5.5" was cut out of my pipe.

Yep! I want to see Yee Haw 6 (or is it 7?) vs Lil Cub! 

Lenny, I think you are comparing apples and oranges here. You are right that these guys are not bush pilots flying bush planes and I don't think that is what Yamma-Fox meant by calling them the best STOL guys. Maybe it would be more accurate to call them great STOL Competition guys. They are very entertaining to watch and are drawing large crowds at Oshkosh and STOL competitions around the country and this is helping draw a younger audience into an aging and dying industry. Some of those kids might even become real bush pilots some day.

I have an exhaust for a 582 that someone shortened and brazed to make it fit with an incorrect Y-pipe. I have it cut back apart, but now need to figure out how long of a piece to weld in the middle. I can get it close by extending the taper with a couple straight edges, but a measurement would be nice for a sanity check. Does anyone have an exhaust handy to get a picture of the pipe with a tape measure in front? I'm interested in the measurement from the end of the socket to the centerline of the pipe where it enters the muffler.

Thanks,

Brett

I would like to go but it's a 1hr 45min drive for me. It was in Milaca last time which is a little closer to home.

It should be a fun event to watch. Steve Henry and his plane are very impressive.

Coclimber, are planning on an autopilot using the Pixhawk?

I will be using large RC servos controlling trim tabs on the elevator, rudder, and flaperons on my build. The plan is to eventually have a three axis autopilot but I'm not sure what direction I want to go for control. Something like a pixhawk would work well but I don't think you can connect a local display to the pixhawk board for control. I don't like the idea of connecting over an RF link.

The warmest I saw today was -3 just north of Minneapolis. It's supposed to be in the high 30s on Monday. I've had enough of winter for this year and am ready for spring.

The Avid I am working in now is my first plane I have covered and I am just finishing the wings now. I am using the 3M 30NF glue which is the same as what is used in stewart systems. You'll need a gallon of glue. The nice thing with this glue is there is no smell and I am able to work on my wings in a finished area of my house.

I found the stewart systems videos on YouTube to be very helpful. I binge watched the videos one night and had and had an easy time getting started on the wings. 

I found this video to be the most helpful learning the modified seine knot for rib stitching.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6Y-oU1ikcAA

I will be using latex paint like what 109JB mentioned. Malcolm does a great job explaining the process on his website and YouTube videos.

It sure is nice having this forum and YouTube for projects like this. It's one thing to read the manual to figure out how to get the job done but much easier to watch an expert do the job and give pointers and tips along the way.

They look nice! Did you get the short ribs too?

Thanks for the pictures, Brett. I'm working as fast as I can to get my Avid finished. It will be done before next winter and I have a set of Lotus floats for some winter fun. I'm looking forward to meeting up with you guys!

-Brett

Looks fine to me. The attachment in the cad drawing would produce a positive camber twisting force as weight is applied to the gear.

His bungee tube attachment is in line with the center of the axle and also gussets the front and rear gear leg tubes to the axle like other cabane gear I have seen for Kitfoxes and Avids.

Sorry, I should have updated the thread. I was not able to find anyone that would sell a small quantity of the polyurethane TPU film. I ended up buying the 0.3mm thick TPU film on Aliexpress for a fairly reasonable cost. Sourcing the tetrahydrofuran solvent to make the glue was the next problem. I think the solvent was $30 and shipping another $30 or $40 from a lab chemical supply house.

The Full Lotus manual recommends dissolving small pieces of the TPU film in the solvent to make a thick glue. This can be used to seal up pinhole leaks or as a glue to attach patches over larger tears and holes. I got all of the blown out bladders repaired and now just need to locate a couple pinhole leaks in some other bladders. They will be an easy fix once I find them.

Here are a couple pictures comparing model C and Mk 4 control surfaces.