I have my welder set at 35 amps, usually go full pedal until I get a nice puddle established and get moving then I back off and just try to maintain a weld puddle that wets into the two parts I’m welding. I don’t know if that’s right or not it’s just what works for me. I’m using a 1/16 tungsten because I read somewhere that’s what I should use, but in all honesty I like the 3/32 better.
I would say good prep, clean your metal up and make sure your joints are tight with minimal gap. A welding table that you can set up on and get comfortable and some spare tungsten. I really enjoy tig welding, it’s kinda peaceful until you dip your tungsten for the hundredth time and throw your torch across the shop. Don’t do that by the way because it breaks the back cap and it’s back to the welding supply store .
Thanks for doing that Jim, are the flapperon rods the same length left and right? I imagine it will be evident when I get to that point but I’m just curious. No need to make a special trip to the garage
OK that makes sense, I think that would be a good alternative if you didn't want to weld on a fuselage. Would it be possible for you to measure and list the control rod lengths? It can be a bit confusing to figure out what goes were when your building old kits that the labels have fallen off of. To add to the confusion I have a model IV kit and a model III and a model III to IV conversion kit. Maybe it could even be posted in the files and forms section. Have a good day!
Thanks for the replies, So it sounds like I was letting my ocd take over. This is my first build and I am trying to avoid doing anything that would result in a poor flying aircraft. TJay that is pretty much what the KitFox manual says to do, nlappos that is exactly what i was saying and your math is correct that's what i'm seeing. I was really nervous about drilling the holes in my spars because I know how much work and expense goes into getting the wings to this point. I feel better now Thanks guys!
Well that really sucks! I was hoping to log on and read your first flight report. I feel for you that can be really frustrating. Will it idle long enough that you can turn the fuel valve off and let it run out of fuel? If it smooths out for a few seconds before it dies that tells you conclusively that your dealing with a rich condition vs a electrical one. Just a thought that’s easy to try.
Hi Jim I’m glad to hear that helped, as far as why it helps I have no idea. I have wondered the same thing and would by interested to know why. A interesting side note is that I have the same bouncy vacuum gauge on the left carb on our engine, not nearly as much on the right. As far as the worn valve guide theory goes our engine only had 40 hours on it when we bought it and had the rough idle issue so I kind of doubt it but I guess anything is possible. We have just under 90 hours on it now and it’s running great.