Yamma-Fox

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Posts posted by Yamma-Fox


  1. Sounds like you are well within the the envelope there.  But one lesson I learned along the way was that I had a bad habit of using a little skidding turn (extra rudder kicked into the turn) to get lined up when I would be overshooting final.

    I learned that was a bad technique because I was essentially dumping lift off that inside wing and setting myself up for a "flip on your back" stall if I would've gotten too slow at any point in the skid. Really what I was doing was what your instuctor did to force a plane into a demonstrated spin...  stall and kick hard inside rudder.

    Inverted Concepts had a great vid demonstrating it but I can't find it right now.


  2. I think it is possible that even a medium  sized grain of sand in between those gearbox gears could produce that which you describe.  Something so small that when you backed it up it went in with the oil and you'd likely not detect it when you opened it back up.

    I really don't know, just tossing out ideas here but if it were something in the engine I think it would've have felt a little less "metal to metal" since you'd be working through the hardy disk rubber when you pulled the prop... it would have had a little give I'd think.

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  3. Thanks for the #s guys.   Shows I'm getting ripped off with Gallagher!

    $630/yr for storage only ($30k value - non motion while I repower)  :wacko::blink:

    Time to shop around!!

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  4. Turf science is complicated for sure and I bet the plan really would be different for different environmental locations / soil types.

    I would look up whoever does a good job taking care of a golf course / ball field / public park nearby for some good advice.

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  5. Personally I would go the route of big fat tires with low PSI.

    Might not be the idea that you're looking for here, but if you take it far enough you could (impractically) operate off a tilled field.

     

    P.S.  I'm jealous of your private Airfield!


  6. Vance ya did good on that $550 mount!

    Heres CPS at $995 and it looks like just for the frame and no hardware.

    Oh and for sure if you can build it yourself then that's pretty much always the way to go.  For me I'd weigh how long (reaaally long) it takes me against just going out and doing my day job and paying someone who is better at it   ;)

     

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  7. Willam is extremely reasonable.   He said it will be right about $1000, which is about what you would pay for a 912 mount for kitfox.

    He is also planning to offer headers, oil tank, coolant tank, and throttle reverser for the Avid.

    Next he hopes to make up KF fwf parts.


  8. FYI:

    Over in the Yamaha Aircraft Conversions Facebook group we have William Langford who is making  an Avid Mk 4 engine mount jig for the Apex engine.  He is also planning to offer headers, oil tank, coolant tank, and throttle reverser for the Avid which would take about 75% of the work out of a conversion.

    The RX-1 also fits in the mount but it has a prop location that is about 2.5" lower than the apex.

    The mount weighs 7.28 lbs.

    Williams contact number is 701-651-0122

    Williams brother Barak is the fabricator, his number is  520 235 9072

     

     

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    2 people like this

  9. Natural progression in redneck way of thought:

    Polar Bear Challenge... CHECK, Next?

    Tide Pod Challlenge.....  CHECK, Next?

    Challenger Challenge....  CHHHEEEcck,(gulp), "Naw I wasn't scared, wanna go for a ride?"


  10. Yep the 300 HP testbed is great to do some overload testing!  I really like the idea of that.  Assuming it does well there it would give some real comfort zone for running in that 180-220 HP range.

    And for reference, the 300 is on OEM bore (998cc) and the stock crank as well.  The OEM crank is even used in the 600 HP Apex drag racing sleds.


  11. ^^  Hope you are right!  What you say makes sense.

    But I wouldn't entirely blame EP for seeking a premium for the big power they are offering in the EPeX.  220 - 300HP at a smidge less than 200 lbs total installed weight is pretty unheard of and probably worth a few bucks to the kind of people who really want that much power.

    In terms of $/HP I think they would have grounds to look for a bigger margin.


  12. Yeah well that was a long time ago...   I'm getting WAY better now.  

    ;)

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  13. Prelim guestimates on the EP Apex "EPeX" are outta my budget! 

    An internally beefed up EPeX set up with big boost and HP will likely go north of $30k I'd bet.  But it'd be worth every penny if you wanted big power  because they basically do a major overhaul with top of the line internals and then their turbo and ecu is built to (experimental) aviation standards (as opposed to snowmo turbos) with built in protections to save the motor and get you home in case of detected detonation - overboost - overtemp (egt) - ect.

    But really, wouldn't even $35k for say a 250 HP zero-timed Apex look pretty good next to an even more expensive 142 HP 915?

    All that said, "MOST" people converting the apex are happy with the 150 stock NA motor.  Those doing that get everything done for under $10k in most cases:

    $2500-3000 for a motor with all acessories from Jim Hensel (our top rated engine supplier) or DIY buying a used sled and canabalizing it.  (Shop a 2006-2010 Apex)  Contact Jim Hensel:  +16073298676

    $3500 for the Skytrax adapter-gearbox.  Contact Teal Jenkins   +16237340185

    $500 for the wire harness conversion (developed by Steve Henry and built by Ian Bange) Contact Ian Bange via Facebook: Precision Aviation Products (see pic below)

    $1000 in incidentals

    $1500 for a custom fit header (if not DIY).  Contact GP Headers:  https://www.gpheaders.com/products/custom-headers/

    $900 for a Luga prop.

     

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    1 person likes this