Yamma-Fox

That might be a better way.   But FWIW, the way pictured above has been done in numerous conversions (including two widely followed Yellow Highlanders) with no reports of problems.

Yep been there too.  Part of this game we play.  No fun when it is "our turn at bat" and we strike out.... but the good part is that everyone else on your team understands and is there to pat you on the back.

I'm no expert either, but if i were noticing some loss of roll authority near stall speed I'd try it.
The peel and stick ones should be pretty easy to take back off if you don't like it.

That's right Buddy!
We all have you in mind and prayer!
You were the first to welcome me when I started in here... you stuck with me even when I became a traitor and switched away from "The Sooby", and then again as I became the self righteous know-it-all egomaniac that everyone now just rolls their eyes at!
If you stick with me after all that then you're a hell of a guy!
Get off that mind numbing juice quick so we can have ya back! 

Brett

For anyone who might be following, I did an update 2 posts up on the c box that had a problem.
And here's a pic of what was meant by "improperly assembled".  Absolutely amazing that the gears and gearbox held up to 140 hp for 200+ hours with the gears barely even meshing like that!!
 

Teal contacted me today with a report that a pinion shaft bearing began to fail on a (appox 200 hr) Skytrax RX-1 running an RK-400 centrifugal clutch.  
This event is noteable because it is very similar to one other case where the same problem was encountered  (also a Skytrax RX-1 w/ RK400, but with approx 110 hrs).
Other noteable facts include:  
-  Both failures suffered NO powerloss.  The bearing began to give out but the rigidity of the RK-400 clutch (mounted on the PTO) helped keep the clutch drum and pinion shaft centered and the gears remained "meshed" and running.  It appears likely that at least one of these two gearboxes ran for a number of hours in the partially failed bearing condition.
The problem (in both cases) was detected during a subsequent preflight by noting some side to side play in the clutch drum.
-  Also noteable is that there are many other setups nearly identical to this one (centrifugal clutch with similar hrs of use) which have had NO problems, and also there have been no reported problems while running the rubber flex drive ("hardy disc").
******UPDATE****
Analysis is back from the Rotax service center on these two gearboxes.  It was determined that the latest gearbox was assembled incorrectly during a gear set change (see pic 2 posts down), and that both gearboxes had the pinion bolt come loose during operation.  (that bolt in the center of the pinion shaft, bolt head located in gearbox, going out through to the coupling that connects to the clutch drum / hary disk)
When that bolt came loose, the pinion shaft  apparently "rode up" the gear teeth and rammed against the outer pinion bearing (in outer case), loading it axially which in time caused the bearing to fail.  Also the gear wear pattern on the second (improperly assembled) gearbox had the large gear scraping the case cover and the pinion bearing race.  Wear marks showed that the two gears in that one only had about 50% tooth alignment.
So it looks like the problems here have been isolated to improper assembly and also more noteably from the pinion bolt coming loose, so a couple unofficial recommendations are suggested from the shop to users of the c gearbox:
The pinion shaft bolt should be cleaned thoroughly and red loctite used during final assembly. (torque is 212 in-lbs)
When you have the gearbox apart to that point, the axial clearance of the pinion shaft should be checked.  This clearance is critical to bearing life and gear engagement.  In the post below I'll reference the service manual excerpt on how to make this check.
Additionally anyone running the Rotax gearbox can also make an easy preflight check to determine that the pinion bearings are in good condition.  This is a simple procedure where you reach in the access / cooling hole and physically push on the drum / hardy disk.  There should be no detectable side to side movement.
 

Good point on running 100LL with a full synthetic like Mobil 1.

I'll put my bid in for Mobil 1 0-w40
After better than a million trouble free miles, changing every 15,000 in family subaru cars, Im a believer.
 
Nice looking plane!
 

Big project there bud!   You've come to the right place here, and will get some really good advice from the experts on these planes (not me!  LoL).  These guys can help steer you through the rebuild process with some invaluable input!
To the group, Ian is a regular contributor over in the Yamaha Aircraft Conversions Facebook group, and is working on a professional grade wire loom mod for the Yamaha Apex motors.
He is the kinda guy that gets stuff done.
Welcome Ian,  
Anatoli (Brett)
 

Yoy guys are doin good.  My girls concluded that I am not cool when they were about 7....
but it's not 'cause they have an attitude...  mama says it's just that they have good intuition.

You guys got a screen filter to recommend?
(id rather have a clear plastic case and not glass or metal)

I agree Leni, but like I've said before, I just want a VPP that goes to reverse so I can show off and back up on the water!  

Reference post above,  here is the axial clearance measurent screenshot from the manual, along with a description of how I found to do it in an easier way:
For anyone who wonders the procedure for checking Rotax C pinion shaft axial clearance, here is a copy, but I found it easier to simply add a number of shims (I put in like 4), install and torque pinion bolt, then set the case cover down (without gasket).  The proper gap IS the .4mm gasket, so I measured the case cover gap without the gasket and removed a number of shims that measured the same (or slightly more) than the gap.  
Then I double checked my measurement by doing it the way described in the manual.  For my box I had a .44mm clearance with zero shims. 
I also think it is important, during reassembly,  to triple check that you don't have too many shims in by checking that the case cover actually still will contact (without the gasket) the case.  This ensures that you didn't add too many shims and have a binding problem when you bolt the cover on.
I'll re-check that at about 30 hours after break-in and predict that I may need to add one shim at that time.

 
 
Dang Fred... guess us guys over on this side of the "pond" haven't evolved into that "Star Trek" level of maintenance practice yet!!   
 
I need you to bring some of that kinda magic over to help with my motor change!!

Just an update here on feedback from people who have bought direct from Nick in Romania (see early posts in this topic for order process):
Everyone I have talked with has had a good experience and a prop shipped promptly.  The only small complaint I've heard is that, rarely, Nick can be a little slow on returning emails.
Today a friend called and told me that there was a slight defect (delamination) on the trailing edge of one of his blades. He had a buddy who spoke Russian and they called Nick up to ask how to repair that, but Nick told him that he would ship him 3 new blades that very day... and only asked that my friend ("Yooper Ed" here in the forum) send his three blades back to Nick.
Pretty dang good customer service report there!
I remember I was a little hesitant to send a money order blindly overseas, but so far it has worked out well for everyone.

Thanks guys.  Will do.

If I did the cutout up top, here is the my leading plan of attack

20 miles.....
I might even have a chance of getting in that strip and not going off the end.

Thanks for the pics and ideas.
Yeah I was thinking about maybe cutting down a plastic bin  (tote) or something for my top cowl mold....   but not quite... there's gotta be something better...
Mayne a faux hood scoop for a car...

Wish I could send you my top cowl half!
I need to do a cutout and "bubble" to allow more room for my new motor, but haven't figured out how to tackle the glass work yet.

On the oil temp discussion,  i bet it also would make a huge difference where you measured it right?
In the tank or coming out the bottom must be a lot cooler than if you were taking it off a tapped sensor in the oil cooler bolt or at the oil test port above the #1 exhaust port. 

Sorry.. forgot who I was talking to (someome already running a yamaha!)
I plan to run full synthetic Mobil 1 0w40 which can tolerate higher temps and avoid thermal breakdown of the oil.  I wouldn't flinch at running 257F
 

UPDATE:    SOLD.