wolves200

Hey High country;

that´s a real good looking plane good job! I guess you are going to make a cover for the bungees? I believe it will be coated with 2 stroke oil as soon as you start flying regularly... Also the original Avid cowling looks very nice without that side radiator.

Regards

Dimi3

I contacted him and offer 50$ right away, he accepted to send it to Sweden but denied to stop the auction...

Regards

Dimi3

Thanks for the answer guys , but how can you wrap the cable around the two leads? I mean that cable is very small... are you connecting an extra cable to the original red cable??

can anybody take a close pic if possible to the installation?

I brought the wraps very close together and it got better, I mean, now shows 1200RPM while the 2 last digits are very active around 50rpm swing.

Regards

Dimi3

Hello Guys:

I just finished up installing a Tiny Tach on my avid, and the manual recomends 3 to 4 wraps around the #1 ignition cable; however, I ran a test, without prop inside of my garage, just to test it, and is giving me readings of 1400 up to 1900 rpm at idle, judging by the engine sound, there is no changes, I try 2 and even 1 and is not stable, I even tried it without wraps, and even though is more stable is still jumping.

any of you have a good advise of how, or what am I doing wrong? or this supposed to be like that??

Regards

Dimi3

Having problems to understand or master your computer these days???

it´s a shame he doesn´t offer international shippingI would love to buy them from him right away ---

Regards

Dimi3

Well those are interesting pictures Doug, what´s that? eurofox? aerotrek? I thought, making the ribs on aluminium and riveting them to the spar was more easy than glue and plywood, but then again, the AVID/FK wings are one of the most easy to build wings ever.

Regards

Dimi3

I tried to make my own cowling now 3 times, and I´m never satisfied with the results, perhaps I sucks at it, I found easier to make it from blue foam, but I can´t get a accurate way of having a perfect flat or curved surface, I use like planks with sand paper glued on it, and all different tools, same results.

I guess I have to be more patient!!

any tips from the experienced member are highly appreciated...

Regards

Dimi3

Hey ED; post them please! not that I need them now, but is never wrong to see building methods, jigs, fixtures, etc, etc, so we can go back and look whenever is need it...

post them all, All of them!

would be nice to see your progress of the whole project...

Regards

Dimi3

I take off from a very short grass strip, I used them alot, mine are set 15 deg. either full or none for take off and landing...

I start the take off roll with no flaps, lift the tail wheel as soon as possible, when I reach 35kt  pull full flap and back the stick a little. Rest is history!

for landing, I come with full until I´m about to touch the ground, then I retract them fully to reduce ground effect and I will stop very fast.

like Leny and Jeoy said, without flaps, is like having a muscle car on bicycle wheels!!

Regards

Dimi3

Hey ED;

hmmm.... well that´s stupid really!!! no shipping to the US, I guess it´s about right for distribution or something, mine are also from Crazed pilot website, one of the first models, now he has different models, this ones failed after very little hours of operation, they light constantly, but not as strobes, I checked the LED controller and there was poorly done, I try to fix them but it´s really cheap to spend time on them.

Regards

Dimi3

Hey ED; I saw this on Ebay,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Car-Truck-LED-Eagle-Eye-Emergency-Warning-Flash-Strobe-Lights-Lamp-Bulbs-White-/161296307734?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258e025616&vxp=mtr

I currently have the square bulky on the sides windows behind the pax and pilot and I would like to replace them with this ones, not that I Want to fly in pitch dark and hoping this is the solution, but just to make myself visible in high traffic areas, should be easy to install and doesn´t cost much.....

Regards

Dimi3

Congrats! sounds like FUN!!!

quick question here Marv: are you using a spinner? if you do, fly without it, and check back with the temps!! let me explain a little, I saw a guy airflow analysis, and he had more or less same cooling setup as you; there was a flow caused by the spinner and it acted as screen preventing the air flowing into the vents, pretty much like yours...I can see you are routing one of the hoses very close to the "Y" exhaust, you know that particular piece is extremely hot.

this is a very high end  performance engine, I strongly suggest go by the belly installation, save head aches and very flexible with radiators shapes.. meaning less money,  you can basically use whatever radiator you can find. 

hope this helps; very nice installation by the way!

Regards

Dimi3

well, was not 850 but close!

quote from the mail

":..he normal list price per unit is USD $799 + packaging/shipping to your door is USD $85 = USD $884, however, for a limited time, pricing has been discounted to USD $749 per unit (plus shipping)..."

I was about to ask the same, what is the difference between 2 carbs and 1, I know  we loose little bit of power but how much? and is it really worth the trouble of having 2 carbs?---, sync, and way too many other things to look for when you have 2 instead of one???

could be good idea perhaps running 1 unit instead? any thoughts?

Aeroinjector doesn´t work on 2 strokes, as far as I can read on the website.

Regards

Dimi3

Hey Willis; nice to have somebody to talk to objectively, I mean I spoke with a sales man, but you know how it is, there is never anything wrong with it.- I think ED hit the nail on the head, cost is 850$ per unit plus shipping and of course here plus 25%VAT, and I need 2 units, don´t know about that, I will have to sell the whole airplane to buy those 2 things; don´t know I guess I´m mister cheepo here.

I believe there was a problematic start of this type of carbs like the POSA carb, and also there is a good working unit way too expensive Alisson, and there is a cheaper version but I haven´t heard anything to 2 strokes, Arovee....

nevertheless, the carb looks very simple and it appears that there is nothing really to go wrong there, installation should be pretty much straight forward.

Regards

Dimi3

you want the long story or the short story?? --- look at the amount of the mechanical parts in comparison to the bings, fuel mixture is done in a different way can be adjusted in flight with little installation, primer system built in---

there is a fair amount of accidents reported by the float arm on the bings and on, and on and on.... this is basically a crude injection system. NO need to be on top them all the time....

there is list of advantages... if they work as they advertise, hence the question

Regards

Dimi3

Hello Guys;

any of you heard of this throttle body injectors for 2 strokes, there is on e new product from Rotec, same aussy company that makes the radial engine, they have a 582 fitted with a TBI, 

if you heard or know more about this please let me know, I´m seriously considering to replace the Bing for this type.

http://www.rotecaerosport.com/faqs/tbi-rotax/

Regards

Dimi3

I have been running with a 532 for more than 40 hours and I can´t complain about the engine, I had problems with the ignition but was solved thanks to a gentleman here, I Was flying last summer together with a friend  and his avid 582, and we were both about the same in every possible way, his fuel consumption was better than mine, but I Think it was because I didn´t calibrate my carb as good as his.

downside ---is a OLD engine regardless of how new in the box you get it.

pros--- cheapper than a rotax 582 in cost and maintenance as well...

I bought a second 532, because it was cheap and I can now have to running engines.

Regards

Dimi3

GEZZZ!!! that island is Heligoland, north Germany, is located 225 Miles south West of my location, RNWY 21 is only 420 meters long(1360ft), NOW what the flying FU£$ is he doing taking sun bath at the threshold of a runway?? not enough sand in that beach??

I fly same plane as this and I wouldn´t land in 420m RNWY at any given time, even with head winds...

I LOVE MY AVID FLYER!!!!

Regards

Dimi3

that´s a Beautiful--cough---cough--- Avid Flyer!! 

why would you go with bigger tires? just for the look or are you afraid you won´t have anything else to build??? still good job with the plane, I´m impressed, good that you choose to wait for a year!! this cowling doesn´t look as bad as long as you remove that cheek on the right hand (harrier air intake) side of it look good, Joey is still flying with same cowling, very distinctive of avid, unfortunately mine came with a "modified stone heavy cowling"

Regards

Dimi3

WOW! man looking very good!!!

hahaha; this is funny!

Guys;

after talking to an Airforce Helicopter Mechanic, which is actually opening a airplane factory, he pointed me the following.

in regards to 4 strokes. (which is the reason why I said in my first post, "then again my engine is a 2 stroke...")

he wrapped the exhaust pipes of his Rotax 912 with the bandage and it worked fine, until they hit 50 hours, and notice cracks all over the Rotax exhaust pipes. Wrapping the pipes will get temperatures really high ALL THE TIME, different from racing cars and other vehicles, this engine operates in constant RPM. meaning there is not enough time to the metal to cool down and so it becomes red glowing. the original material cannot withstand the extreme heat.

his solution was, welding a metal plate onto the pipe with a gap of about 5mm letting the air flow through and preventing burn the cowling, much like a MC to prevent burning your leg,

however this does not solve high temps inside the engine compartment, so they changed the original pipes to STAINLESS STEEL pipes and open bigger vents under the cowling.

so at the end wrapping is not the answer either, i´ve been running my engine for 40+ after the wrap, and see no cracks, BUT THEN AGAIN is a 2 STOKE ENGINE!!!

Rotorway building manual clearly says, should be wrapped to lower the temp and painted with high temp paint to prevent any drop of oil becoming flame inside of the cowling.

I`m just sharing my experience here with you guys, if anyone has a better solution, by all means, share it with US, PLEASE...

so far, the wrap worked for me but I don´t want to burn my engine either!

Regards

Dimi3

This are some of the OLD installation photos I had on hand, the electrics were VERY wrong, and the radiator as well was very badly installed... instead of bolting the radiator on a frame to the engine, I decided it to let it "float" on a small compartment on the front of the cowl, works quite well, but in HOT summer is not that effective, I will go for a belly radiator; far easier.

I will post more pics later.

Regards

Dimi3