tcj

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Everything posted by tcj



  1. tcj added a post in a topic Counter balance weights   

    The Kitfox Model 1...at least the first ones...did not come with mass balance weights.  Here's the service bulletin about it.  The one on line does not open correctly...so I can read it anyhow.
    Service Bulletin 03.doc
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  2. tcj added a post in a topic Cable operated enrichers (choke) 582   

    On a cold engine mine usually takes a couple pumps until I feel a resistance on the push.  Thats when it is squirting the fuel into the intakes.  Then two or three  more pumps will do it.  On a warm engine I crank without priming and it usually starts right up.  If it cranks more than about 5 seconds without starting I give it one pump and it starts.
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  3. tcj added a post in a topic Cable operated enrichers (choke) 582   

    The enrichers work good for me until it gets cold...below about 30 F, then I have to crank for about 30 seconds to get it to start.  I added a primer and it starts in about 3 seconds of cranking or less in all temperatures.
     
    Also...about 20 years ago there was a guy on the old Kitfox email list that lived in White Horse.  The fuel pump went out on his 912 powered kitfox over the Saskatchewan Bush and he kept it running with the primer long enough to reach a clear spot to land.  Ever since I read his post about that I figured a primer was good insurance. 
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  4. tcj added a post in a topic P-38   

    More P-38 trivia than you probably care to know.  Here's the different stamps on my collection.
    US Shelby CORP
    US kay 1962
    US Speaker
     
    On the unopened packages
    J.W. Speaker Corp, Milwaukee 12 Wis.  1951 Pat. No. R. E. 22934
    Kay Tool & Die INC.  Union City Tenn.
    G. G. Green, Warren Pa, USA
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  5. tcj added a post in a topic Cable operated enrichers (choke) 582   

    Here's one that looks like it on Ebay.  May have to put longer cables on.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-7080290-Dual-Carb-Mikuni-Choke-Cable-/400789462330?vxp=mtr&hash=item5d50e9dd3a
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  6. tcj added a post in a topic Cable operated enrichers (choke) 582   

    This is what came with my Kitfox Classic 4 kit.  It came with two shorter cables attached.  Two longer cables were included with instructions to file the Carb end swedges down to the look and size of the shorter ones and use them to replace the short ones.  It looks like a snowmobile choke (enricher) lever to me.
     
    Kitfox part number is 49013 Choke Cable Assembly.  The longer cables are part numbers 47004 and 47018.

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  7. tcj added a post in a topic P-38   

    I was cleaning out the back porch of my Mother's house last year and ran across my old mess kit.  These would be from the 60s.  Thats the last time I ate a C-rat.

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  8. tcj added a post in a topic Lets talk elevator trim   

     
    I use flaperons for trim and it works beautifully.  Like I said in my post above, you need to rig the horizontal stabilizer so the plane flies hands off with just you and and a light fuel load on board.  This will move your CG to the most forward for any loading scenario.  This allows you to rig the horizontal stab so it flys hands off at this forward CG location.
     
    You then do not ever need nose up trim because anything else loaded in the plane moves the CG back and pitches the nose up.  The nut on the flap handle needs to be tight enough that the flap handle stays where it is put and does not need a notch system installed to hold it in place.  You need just a little bit... I need to pull the flap handle up about 1/2 inch to trim the nose down when I have a heavier load on board.  I do not notice any decrease in airspeed.
     
    The flaperons must be rigged correctly too.  When the flap handle is pulled up it causes the nose to pitch down.  If flaperons are rigged so the nose pitches up when the handle is full down they are not in the "Sweet spot" as some call it.
     
    Mine is a kitfox model 4 and I think the first model to have 3 different holes for the bolt on the front mount of the horizontal stab.  Evidently an Avid doesn't have room to do that so you probably can't make it so.
     
    There are all manner of trim systems to attach to the elevator.  I prefer my airplane to be basic and simple and would use the spring or bungee on the control system if I needed one.
     
    This is not intended to disagree with any other good advice from other Avid/Foxers.  Good luck, hope you are flying soon.
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  9. tcj added a post in a topic Back in the air   

    Ed, my kitfox paint is Polytone Nevada Silver over three Cross coats of polyspray on the top surfaces and two cross coats of poly spray on the bottom surfaces.  The Nevada Silver is much more shiny than Polyspray when you see the two side by side.
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  10. tcj added a post in a topic Lets talk elevator trim   

    You don't need elevator trim on an early kitfox.  Rig the horizontal stab so it flys level with just you and a light fuel load in the plane.  Anything else you put in the plane will move the CG rearward then you trim the nose down with the flaperons.  The plane was designed to trim with the flaperons.  You will never need nose up trim.  For landing approaches the stick force is very light to hold a slow approach speed and you can feel whats going on so know if you're getting near a stall.
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  11. tcj added a post in a topic Back in the air   

    It was a complete plane Kitfox package from the old Skystar for $14995 when they reintroduced the model 4 as the Classic 4. The 503 does fine.  The plane weighs 573 empty.  You do need to know how to fly, not just push in the throttle and hang on.  With me and 9 gallons of gas it weighs 800.  It will climb at 800 feet per minute on a cool day here at 1800 feet elevation and cruise at 85 mph at 6000 RPM.  With a 200 pound passenger the takeoff roll doubles or triples and the climb is about 500 feet/min.  I don't take fat boys...or girls...on hot days.
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  12. tcj added a post in a topic Back in the air   

    Yes, The prop was pitched for 6150 before the rebuild but I didn't mark it or remember the degrees.  I thought it was 12 so thats where I set it this time but had to decrease it to 11 for 6150 this time.
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  13. tcj added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Back in the air
    It has been 5 months since I have been in the air.  Two days ago I went down to yakima and took a flight review in a 1940 J3-Cub and yesterday finished the condition inspection.
     
    I started working on my condition inspection last October.  Yesterday I tied my tail to the trailer and ran the overhauled 503 through the Rotax break-in procedure.  At the point where you give it the first full throttle blast...for 10 seconds about half way through the procedure...if the RPMs are not in the specified range you have to stop and re-pitch the prop.  They were 100 RPM too low.  I reduced the angle on the blades 1 degree which raised the RPMs 150.  I finished the break-in run then flew around the valley for an hour.  Good to be back in the air with condition inspection and flight review both done and the beginning of the flying season.


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  14. tcj added a post in a topic Avid model D window install problems?   

    My Classic 4 manual is vague about this.  Here's how I did it.
     
    First Install the Cowl to fit around the engine, prop flange centered and proper clearance between prop and front of cowl, horizontal seam between top and bottom cowl level and proper height, etc. etc.
     
    Second,  Trim the top sides and back of the windshield to fit. Leave the front, the left, and the right of the lexan sheet oversize.  With the cowl off, rivet or use screws and nuts to attach the top of the windshield to the butt ribs.  Pull the front of the windshield down and bend the left and right sides back and clamp them to left and right door frames.  Put the cowl back on.  With a helper, loosen the clamps, push the bottom front of the windshield forward to fit tight up against the curve of the top cowl.  Tighten the clamps to hold it in this position.  Drill through the left and right sides of the windshield and door frames and secure with screws and nuts.
     
    Third, Trim the glare shield to fit around the fuselage windshield tubing and for any peitot/static line or other access.  Position the glare shield to fit inside the curve in the bottom of the windshield with room for screws to stick through the bottom under the lip of the cowl.  Remove the cowl and drill through the bottom front of the windshield and glare shield for screws and nuts.
     



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  15. tcj added a post in a topic Oil injection tank location   

    This tank is off a 1996 Ski Doo Scandic.  I think it holds 2.5 Qts.  I installed it with the outlet level with the pump inlet in 3 point attitude.  When I switched to the 22" King Fox tires the outlet is now about an inch lower than the pump inlet in 3 point.  There is room to move it higher on the fire Wall but I decided there isn't much to gain as the oil left in the tank if near empty is only what's in the sump at the bottom of the tank.
     
    With your big tires and monster gear you may have to sacrifice a few ounces in the bottom of the tank to "Unusable" oil.


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  16. tcj added a post in a topic Angle of incidence KitFox IV horizontal tail   

    I was working on my plane today and noticed the wing spar to fuselage attach bolts stick down past the bottom profile of the wing.  These make an easy place to put my smart level to measure the incidence of the spars at the root end.  I put the level on them and it measured 0.2 degrees down.  I think it is no coincidence this is the same angle of incidence I measured on the bottom of the wing.
     
    These measurements probably have some margin of error.  Probably a couple tenths of a degree.  It has me thinking the incidence of the wing may be zero.
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  17. tcj added a post in a topic Angle of incidence KitFox IV horizontal tail   

    Ed, I can't check the incidence of the spars with the fabric on.  I checked it on the number 2 rib from trailing edge to the low point the level touches a few inches behind the front spar...this looks to be the thickest part of the wing too.  I got 0.2 degrees down. (minus 0.2 degrees).  This wing is nearly flat on bottom, just about 1/4 inch under camber.
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  18. tcj added a post in a topic Motor Mount   

    You have to make the tips.  Here's a short how to video.
    http://eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=16346696001
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  19. tcj added a post in a topic A few more pictures for you guys   

    With the 503 hot air exit hole in the top of my cowl I can see the engine move.  At cruse the top of the air duct moves (leans) about 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the right.
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  20. tcj added a post in a topic Angle of incidence KitFox IV horizontal tail   

    I made those measurements kind of in a hurry last night.  I leveled the plane carefully and took them again this morning.  I edited my post above with the new readings.  It doesn't change the outcome really as they are small differences and the stab is adjustable.  The new readings for my plane are the top hole gives 1.5 degrees down and the middle hole gives 2.8 degrees down.
     
    For what its worth my model 4 has a relatively forward CG.  I also have a nose tank and don't often put fuel in the wing tank so that makes the loaded CG usually about 12.25 inches.  You might consider the probable CG your plane will have and build accordingly.  Some Model 4s have as much as 3 to 3.5 degrees down incidence on the horizontal.  In any case drilling the top hole as high as possible gives you the option for a more rearward CG.
     
    I looked in the book also to refresh my memory.  The book says drill the top hole as high as possible and space the other two holes 1/4 inch apart.  I can't remember why I spaced mine 7/16 apart but anyhow you can see the results.
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  21. tcj added a post in a topic Angle of incidence KitFox IV horizontal tail   

    The Kitfox Model 4 horizontal stab is adjustable with 3 holes on the front mount.  I drilled the top hole with the front of the stab as high as it can go.  That made the  hole 1/4 inch below the bottom of the vertical fin. The other two holes are 7/16 inch center to center from the hole above them.
     
    The manual says most fly best in the top hole.  I made the first flight with the stab in the top hole.  It took one finger slight back pressure to fly level in the top hole.  I moved it down to the middle hole and it took very slight forward pressure for level flight.  I left it there as the design is to trim with flaperons.  Everything you load in the plane moves the CG back And flaperons trim the nose down.
     
    I calibrated my smart level for zero degrees on the cabin floor which is the leveling point for the Kitfoxes.  The middle hole is 2.8 degrees down.  Top hole is 1.5 degrees down.  I can't check the bottom hole but suspect the same increase in down incidence.


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  22. tcj added a post in a topic A few more pictures for you guys   

    You shouldn't have any nose heavy problem with the engine that close to the firewall.  Heres a picture of a Model IV for comparison.

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  23. tcj added a post in a topic What do you think?   

    Bandit, do you have an Arctic Sparrow or a HAC mixture adjustment.  I have an Arctic Sparrow.  I don't often need to adjust it.  When the outside temperature gets warm I get the thump in the rudder pedals.  One turn in the lean direction stops it.  I had the thump on my first test flight and thought there was someone back there hitting the trailing edge of the rudder with a hammer every few seconds.  it took me a couple flights to figure it out.
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  24. tcj added a post in a topic Name this mystery Avid Flyer part.....   

    A camera mount?
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  25. tcj added a post in a topic Moved the plane today   

    Some perspective.  Little Tahoma, that little peak you have seen on the side of rainier, at 11,138 feet elevation is the third highest peak in Washington and just 111 feet lower than Mount Hood 11,249 feet.. 

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