nlappos

An ammeter is really just a voltmeter that reads the voltage drop across a known resistance (the shunt), following OHM's Law (V=IR). The shunt is generally inside any analog meter case, but external to any digital device. If you have an analog gauge, the resistance across the poles if there is no shunt would be a few hundred ohms for the windings of the galvanometer.

gregpro50,

Yes, I made the harness myself with parts bought online, used pinouts I found on the web. I bought connectors on Ebay (dsub breakout connector) (http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/z9UAAOSwiCRUiyno/s-l1600.jpg) and just gave it a try. The antenna was a simple dipole that cost $22 on ebay, and its coax was $12. I had the tray with the xpdr, and just epoxied it to the supports behind the panel above the throttle, and tie-wrapped the unit to it behind the panel.

Here is a current ebay listing for a transponder and encoder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bendix-transponder-with-a-Narco-AR-850-encoder-/331698223323?hash=item4d3ac138db:g:SBsAAOSwI-BWN7Vz&vxp=mtr

The samsung works great, a little dim in bright sunlight, but still readable.

I solved this problem with my Avid flyer with an Ebay buying spree. I bought an Edo Aire RT 777 transponder for less than 200, and a simple encoder for 50. I found  great shop in NJ who checked it out for 125 and I have a full mode C system for 400!

I use Avemco and get a pretty good rate on my avid flyer.. For $300,000 liability and $15,000 hull about thousand dollars a year. The policy required me to get a tail wheel familiarization with an IP familiar with the type, or with the builder. I have about 7500 flight hours which probably helped keep my rate down.

Joey's fantastic videos helped me decide to buy an Avid Flyer, Thanks Joey!

Joey,

The poor guy sounds like a newguy on an errand from the senior NCO. Are you sure you didn't send him on the quest?

I have 50 feet of shoreline that he might need, or at least 2 buckets of steam!

Nick

For the record, the Avid Flyer Mk IV that I shielded has a Rotax 582 blue head with Ducatti ignition, and the coils and wires were completely open prior. The EMI hash was a complex noise, not just a snapping but a white noise characteristic that was obviusly RPM sensitive. In addition to complete interference with VHF radio transmit, the noise was also bombing my intercom, forcing it to break squelch and provide continuous noise in cruise.

After the fix, all is nearly quiet as can be, and the Yaesu hand held  VHF has about 30 NM range.

The coils were wide open. In the Rotax factory shielding kit that doesnt seem to be available any more, the coils and wires are also put in a faraday cage. I seriously dubt that the noise was spark plug snap alone. Here are a few shots of the simple copper wrapping that I did to the coils. I made sure the copper was in intimate contact with the cil mounts and the plug wires that had been wrapped, so resistance between all the shielding was a fraction of an Ohm, and so too was it all to aircraft ground.

Good info all, thanks.

  My Avid MKIV had really noisy radio transmission when the engine was running, not readable by ground stations with lots of buzzing and hash. My sidetone was the same. Engine off, the transmit was ok. I had a Yaesu 450 hand held, as well as an Icom A24. I used an installed VHF antenna on the turtledeck, as well as the short rubber antennas with the same transmit. Reception was excellent, when squelch was set pretty high, but transmit was a mess.

I noticed the noise tracked engine power/rpm, and reasoned it was magneto/ignition electro-magnetic interference (EMI).  A few good web sites discussed shielding the plugs and coils, so I installed some copper/tin braided shielding on the spark plug wires (see the pic). I used the stuff that Aircraft Spruce sells, and found the widest stuff 5/8" was able to be stretched over the plug caps, and the narrower ignition shielding stuff  went over the plug wires nicely, when started with a pencil to open it up. I pulled the wires out of the Ducatti coils, which took some effort (and some courage), and then reinserted the wire so it was pierced by the central barb that is in the receptacle. A spot of crazy glue on reassembly helped retain the wire.

I also wrapped the coils themselves in copper mesh, and tie wrapped it into place. The spark plug wire shielding is in contact with the copper mesh, and all are grounded to the engine/airframe, as checked with my ohm-meter.

I'll post some more photos of the coils as wrapped in a day or so.

The radios are now dead quiet, and transmit nicely. I used my Yeasu to talk to a tower 30 NM away, through my big airframe antenna. I hadn't expected such success, frankly!

Copper mesh:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KKUZ6PY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Shielding:  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/copperbraid.php?clickkey=378115

Shielding:  http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/shieldbraid.php?clickkey=378115

You are right, ED. But even his 102" legal width has walls that are only 2" thick, so his internal width is 98", and so is the door. This is better than the typical trailer which is 96" wide. All this is against the 93-94" that is our folded width.

Regarding the 108" wide load, if you use the trailer as a hangar at the airport, and only move it seasonally, the wide load transport hassle might be worth it. Here in CT, hangar space is rare and expensive, but tiedowns are easy to get, and some airports will allow the trailer to be on the tiedown spot. At Meridan airport the tiedowns allow the trailer and cost less than $100 per month.

This has been on Barnstormers for a week or so, this guy gets it. The interior is wide enough for wings folded (102") and an optional extra width (108") is available. I don't know the guy, but it seems in line with prices for the typical enclosed trailer.

NEW 24’x102"x7’ Starting at $6,395

Mark Sorenson,

678-463-5944, captainsorenson@hotmail.com

www.customaircrafttrailers.com

Here is his brochure:

http://www.barnstormers.com/classified_files/5/9/3/9/8/9/593989-2015CustomAircraftTrailersf.pdf

Now that's funny!! Thanks!

Avid Flyer Mk IV serial number 1174, with very light equipment, 14 gal wing tank, and 582 Rotax, 1150 MGW, 543 Empty Weight.

High Country,

Sorry, but the planning was as spotty as the pilot, I knew where I was landing during the flare! ;-)

TJay,

I found the water temp ran warm in climbs especially at 100+ degrees in California. In cruise, it ran 140 to 150 steadily. I think the nose scoops could be opened up a bit, they are aligned with the upper 2/3 of the radiators, and left the lower 1/3 blanked. I bet the temps would be very nice if the scoops were extended a bit, but I operate in Connecticut, so around here the stock config could be quite satisfactory.

Paul S,

Casper is one great town! We spent the weekend with my step-daughter and had a blast. I wish we'd gotten to meet.

Nick

I bought a nice Avid Flyer Mk IV from Jim Peet of Valley Springs, CA, and worked with Joey to get it ready for the trip from CA to Connecticut. The Facebook album tells the story, here is an open link for all, you don't have to be a Facebook member to view it, they say. Let me know if it doesn't work for you.

You Avid pilots are really on to something, that airplane is a pure joy to fly!

Route of flight. O88, O02, 26U, KMAN, KBYI, U56. KBPI, KRKS, KCPR, KCDR, KBUB, KPMV, KICL, KEOK, KDNV, KMNN, KGQQ, 4G4, KSEG, KMMK
2516 Nautical Miles, 2895 statute miles, and about 40 flight hours.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10204506616008187.1073741829.1316312324&type=1&l=ed9d700cb5

I have a Mark IV, and added a tank in the baggage compartment. The concept would be the same in any model, just finding an acceptable place (behind the seats, to the sides, would work. I plumbed it into the main tank, to avoid contaminating the fuel lines with any bubbles. I transfered fuel after the main tank was down below half, so the normal vents cleaned up the transferred air. Here is the tank and pump:

Congrats, Joey!  I can imagine how many technical details you have to be familiar with - nice going!

Nick

Great info, thanks guys.

Has anyone installed a large ferry tank behind the seat on their Avid/Kitfox? I am thinking of one plumbed exactly like the small header tank, but perhaps as large as 10 to 13 gallons, depending on tank shape and available space back there. Learning from one who has done it already would be a real help. Thanks!

My apologies, I found a great thread that answered this in detail, and the owner responded in detail, so disregard. I'd delete the question if I could figure out how!

I am looking at an amateur built Avid Bandit built in '95 that had "every update to make it a heavy hauler" added during build, like 7/8" struts and HH spars. Would that allow it to have a 1200 lb MGW, which is what it is stated as having?  Thanks!

OK, you folks beat me into submission. The Government should keep control of the internet. And that's such a good idea, let's agree the Government should take the telephone system under control, and away from all those pesky private companies. And cable TV, too. And how about the power companies? yep, you convinced me. Thanks, I feel re-born!

Wouldnt it be something if anyone who criticized the move knew anything except what Rush Limbaugh told them to think? I am amazed that adults who have bumper stickers trying to keep Government out of their lives now mess their pants because Government is trying to get out of part of their lives. Make up your freeking minds - if you have freeking minds.

Now ask yourself- who "controls" the internet? Do you know? Who will in the future? While your conservative republicans try to make net neutrality go away, so you can watch big business take over, you bitch about a private commission giving out URLs. Yep, backs up what I've known about conservatives - too much time above 10,000 feet without oxygen.