nlappos

I thought I'd prepare this just to help explain the LSA rules to someone. I edited it to reflect what was posted (Thanks, Guys!)
 Maybe its right now. There seems to be one reason for getting an Exp-LSA Type certificate. The owner can get training to inspect it.
 
Nick

I sprang less than $10 and bought a cheap tachometer/Hourmeter on Ebay (see this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-Tach-Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Gauge-For-2-Stroke-4-stroke-Gas-Engines-/331223584733?hash=item4d1e76cfdd:g:~awAAOxyi-ZTadfo&vxp=mtr)
I bought it and installed it on my Rotax 582, alongside my Tiny Tach. The cheaper knockoff behaves very well, has the same update timing, and is exactly as accurate as the Tiny Tach. The basic workmanship and appearance of this tach is the same as the Tiny Tach, as well. Note that the below version from the same company even has a replaceable battery:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Engine-Tach-Tachometer-Hour-Meter-for-Motorcycle-Choppers-ATV-Spark-Plug-/151776852704?hash=item23569afae0:g:9GkAAOSw~gRVzUd7&vxp=mtr

I contacted a Philippines model company (see David Alejandro on Face Book https://www.facebook.com/woodenaircraft?fref=ts) to make a custom wood model of my Avid, and they are getting ready to ship. Here is a photo of the model and the airplane side by side for comparison. I'll let you know what the in-person examination looks like. They used photos, and did a custom paint job, charging $139 incl shipping.

I am thinking that an extra belly radiator might be necessary to get my water temp back down to redline on hot days. With outside temps above 85 degrees, the minimum water temp in normal cruise is 170 to 175 degrees, and it gets to 180++ in climb.
I wonder if I could hang a belly radiator at the bottom of the firewall, using a quality motorcycle aluminum radiator. Lots of expertise here, I invite your criticisms and comments. BTW, I have flushed the system, checked the thermostat, blocked the sides of the nose radiators to guide the air into the rads, but I get the same ultra warm H2O anyway. 
Below is a pic of one possible motorcycle radiator, is this a bad idea?
Thanks
Nick

I removed my little Maule 6" hard rubber tail wheel and put on a new Matco single arm pneumatic wheel (WHLT-8). The basic wheel swap was easy, one bolt, but while at it I cleaned up the whole tail wheel area:
1) I removed the Matco 45 degree wings and put on some 25 degree ones to match the Avid's rudder rigging. Had I left the 45 degree ones on, the wheel would never unlock, yielding wider turns,and crappy manual ground handling because the wheel would not swivel fully.
2) Re-bent the spring to angle the wheel down a bit. The spring had flattened enough to make the wheel pivot axis point forward, perhaps 20 degrees off the vertical, thus making the wheel lift the whole tail when it pivoted. A local car spring shop (search Automobile Suspension, leaf spring) did it while I waited for $20. Now the wheel is almost purely vertical. I bet they could have made a new one easily, too.
3) Extended the steering arms at the bottom of the rudder using a flat bar of 1" x1/8" aluminum. This extended the horn about 1.5" per side and made the steering more powerful and kept the geometry of the springs square. I bolted the flat to through old holes.
4) Rigged the springs using some threaded quick links which are much easier to use than the previous spring clips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9FAPYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)  I used #35 sash chain which has a working strength of 106 lbs, and which can be easily opened and built up to desired lengths.
Taxi and flight tests showed great improvement in handling, the basic lock in the trail position is stiffer and steering commands are much crisper (I bet the increased steering arm was as much responsible as the wheel). Landings track straighter now, the wheel is locked more tightly in the trail position. The big spring on the right is a bear to deflect now, but tells me positively that I am getting right wheel deflection. Another positive note: the tail wheel no longer acts like a phonograph needle for all the bumps and cracks in the tarmac, taxiing is quieter.
I got some tail wheel shimmy, so I tightened up everything after the flight (found the spring to fuselage bolt had lost torque, allowing the spring to rotate enough to be the cause).