tx_swordguy

ok just heard back concerning the serial number on engine as being 22A60. He also double checked the airframe logs as being 1150. he claims 500hrs so the engine (He thinks its original) sounds like it must have been at least good enough to make it that far. I am guessing that due to it being built about 2003 it must have an upgraded wing but I will get some measurements.
 

Ok guys I live in north texas at about 800' want to fly off 1100' grass strip. I weigh about 190. summer temps get right about 100. He originally told me empty was 690 with a gross of 1150 so I questioned him on the empty weight and he looked at the books showing something of 525ish I don't remember exactly but it was closer to what I expected. I hope he was correct in the 1150 because that would be a really good payload. Just looking for an education on the Jabiru and what to look for in terms of maintenance or reliability. Also how would it compare to the 582? Thanks Mark

Boat , how do you like your jabiru? I am going to look at an avid with  a jabiru could use some education about it
 

I use one on a 582 mounted on a gyro and it does smooth it up some. I wouldn't go so far as to say it is a night and day difference but is does "feel" a little smoother.
Mark

C5 are you flying solo most of the time? Obviously you fly in some high DA areas and the 582 appears to get you anywhere you want to go. I am looking at avid /kitfox and fly closer to 800 msl airport altitudes but in the hot Texas air. Was hoping to get something that can handle a 1000' strip with the wife. Fully loaded would mean about 360+ of pilot and passenger plus whatever fuel it could handle. 582 up for that? Obviously more power would be better, but just weighing my options and whether it is mandatory I go with a bigger engine.

I could not find it listed in the FAA data base. I assume it has not been registered in many years and therefore the lack of a reg # in the data base. Does it have an airworthiness cert ? and what kind of engine. Seems like I remember seeing that one on barnstormers a while back but maybe a different bird. Have you flown/run it?
 

According to Rotax Rick the HACman will not work on the 670 due to the rave valves. I am assuming it also not work on the 618 but do not know for sure. It is supposed to work well on the 582 and 503 engines. Obviously the higher you fly the more effective it is. 

"the read I'm getting from the 2-stroke collective is there shouldn't be any vibration at all felt." Not quite. At idle a two stroke (at least 503,582) will rattle and shake like a pissed off snake! my experience above about 3K it should smooth out and you should not really notice vibration (from the engine) between 3-6.5K rpm . When you cut the throttle back to 5200 does it drop from cruise all the way down to 5200 and then you feel the bumps? or is there a gradual decline in rpm and as you are trying to reach 5200 you feel a bump? I am thinking if you drop your rpms all the way down to 5200 and then you feel a bump it would be more gb (poss the unloading of the prop allowing some slack in the gb), if you are gradually dropping it to 5200 and you feel a bump on the way down to 5200 it would be more engine (poss carb) related. As for the added oil Rick is against the injection-period. My Rick 582 has about 30 hrs and is premix (he wanted me to run 40-1) I did that for the first 10+ and slowly started backing it off to 50-1. He is just overly concerned with getting lube throughout the engine. I have about 15 hrs now running 50-1 and have no issues (this is on a gyro). My suggestion would be to get some time on it and go back to injection only- as long as you feel it is oiling like it should.
 

is this a new engine to the plane/you? or is this a new occurance to an old engine combination? It sounds more GB related to me, but I have no experience with the c box.  If it was a b I would say first thing check the  gear lube level and add some lucas oil stabilizer. It seemed to really tame noise in the gb on my gyro . Unless the bump you feel in the seat is from an rpm change in the engine, I don't think you would feel or hear the carb slide hitting the stops. If it was a warp drive prop I would say check the prop balance but again I have no experience on your prop

I am still taking tailwheel lessons and only have 100 hrs in gyros so I am in no way shape or form what I consider an experienced pilot. That said, as was stated earlier. If you are feeling that rushed do a go around. I know it is not the first thing to come to mind, but it should be. Just pick up the pattern again in the crosswind section

I'm going to be there from wed night on and hope to meet many of you there. I'm a gyro pilot looking to get into either a fox or avid and will probably be asking questions. I'm taking tailwheel lessons currently and I would love to get a look at the various foxes and avids and different mods. Looking forward to it especially since  it will be my first Oshkosh trip .
Mark Whiddon

I am planning on driving up and tent camping the last 1/2 of the week. I am a gyro sport pilot and interested in getting into a kitfox /avid in the near future. Trying to get lessons in a cub to get my FW tail dragger add on unfortunately the instructors plane is down for maint. I have never been to Osh and need some info on not only the drive in tent camping areas, but also where will all the kitfox/avids be parked so I could meet up and talk to you guys? I am looking forward to it!

I would HIGHLY suggest you look up engine rebuild or decarbon on rotax 503 or 582 (essentially the same general way of doing it, just on different engines). Lots of good info if you look. To reinstall the needle bearings you need to get some white engine assembly lube. It is a heavy grease to hold the needles and acts like a glue of sorts. I made an aluminum plug the size of the wrist pin but only long enough to support the needles and spacers. As the plug gets pushed out by the wrist pin the needles should stay in place. That way the needles have plenty of lube at start up and until you can get some two stroke mix down into the wrist pin area. Make sure you count the number of needles (31 if I am not mistaken) a mistake here will trash an engine quick. Just be careful and go slow and you should be fine.
Mark
ps best info on 582 I have found. http://www.aerofixaviation.co.uk/rotax-582-strip-service-rebuild.shtml    

if it is not too much trouble to pull the whole motor out you can flip it upside down on a work bench. then when you push the wrist pin out the needles fall into the upside down piston. Its a little more work but better than the possibility of dropping one into the open engine. I have also done it with taped plastic over the open engine casing and hope I don't lose any needles. I was MUCH less nervous doing it with the engine upside down though.
Mark