Dusty

Members
  • Content count

    325
  • Joined

  • Last visited


Posts posted by Dusty


  1. Regarding springs,my choice would be acme aero springs but my budget (read wife) says no way. I am experimenting with eurethane pucks with some success. 2 kg weight saving,no chance of bottoming out and a degree of rebound damping.some more hard testing is required but results are favourable.


  2. The lower radiator pressure was for the early 582's with the non ceramic seal for the water/ rotary seal. Later (blue top) or modified greys are ok with higher pressure.

    2 people like this

  3. Shifting the wheels forward can delay the lifting if the tail with the resultant longer take off roll. Nosing over is a skill related problem in a kitfox.


  4. I've posted most of the results of how a kitfox compares to other aircraft. The 701s are all flown by previous competition winners. 

    The airfield is 100ft above sea level. Due to a miscalculation I still had 60 litres of fuel on board.


  5. NGK DCPR8E    

     

    got this off of rotaxowner.com   

    that's the ULS plug. I assumed the 2 strokes would have a totally different heat range. I can't find the reference on that site . I will have another look tomorrow


  6. Does anyone have a NGK or Bosch reference number for the 582 mod 17 plugs .Rotax p/n 297656. These are like the 912 type with small thread and double electrodes. These plugs are like trying to find a one ended stick!!


  7. Here is my first attempt at a stol competition. I've now got the bug. Kitfox JFA starts about 1.40

    This class was the tightest and I still got 4th among the 701's

    It's interesting to see how all the different aircraft perform and people were surprised how an 80hp heavy kitfox can perform 

    I can post the results in metres if anyone is interested

     

    5 people like this

  8. Mine was originally riveted with washers on the capstrips. I epoxied a spruce strip to the back of the capstrip for a good bite for stainless screws. The screen replacement will be easier next time. Don't be tempted to try 1.5 mm lexan as the flexing above 90 kts is a bit disconcerting!


  9. I had a facet 4 psi on my 582.It was plumbed in line before the pulse pump and gave no trouble. Use a genuine facet not a copy  I used a knockoff on my 912, this one failed internally after a very short time. It was making the right noises but not pumping.


  10. I think I'd replace the carb boots and belt and all exterior rubber you can find, throw a gasket kit into the carburetors, and remove the exhaust and look in the ports for cylinder damage. If you can still see nice crosshatch in the cylinders, I'd fire it up and see how it runs. if it runs great, I'd drive it for another 150 hours before taking it apart. None of the stuff you will buy to get the engine up and running will be a waste because you will still use it all even if you find a problem along the way and do have to rebuild it.

    Just another angle to consider. That engine does not have a rotary valve or rotary valve seals, and it is HIGHLY unlikely that there is anything wrong with the crank seals regardless of how old they are.

     

    As above but add a regular huff puff bearing test and regular check of your gearbox oil level as "A" &"B" boxes can have their oil sucked into the engine with little warning if the crank seals are suspect

    1 person likes this

  11. Black max do a very nice two lever stick mount master cylinder that would eliminate the poor geometry problems of early avid fox toe brakes. I installed a Black max setup on my Drifter and was impressed with the quality of the components .


  12. You may need to upgrade your starter. I my be wrong but check the cam timing as an 80 and a 100 may have different timing. Also an 80 is around 81 hp where a 100 is 97 hp without the air box which won't fit a 4. The gains may be negligible ? I looked in depth at the same issue when my early 80 hp became due for replacement, I can't comment on high DA ,but under 3000ft a 4 is a rocket with an 80!. A zipper kit was on the cards once the warranty had run but looking at how well the 80 goes I am going to leave well enough alone! At the recent national STOL comps I was out performing most of the 180 hp Cubs on takeoff!


  13. I fly with a factory kitfox belly pod that is modified for clearance around the cabane gear. There is no noticeable difference in flight charactoristics with or without it other than an earlier softening of the elevator effectiveness in the flare(vg's cured this). Radiator position is an issue as I moved mine forward to get out of the dead air in front of the pod. The cabane gear is a bit more draggy than the std gear as there was a difference with or without the pod on this setup. 

    1 person likes this

  14. Thought the OP might like to read an old Sport Aviation article about Jim Younkin's Piper Pacer. He took a 160 hp Pacer, which from Piper is about a 130 mph airplane and with aerodynamic cleanup got 155 mph out of it using the same engine.  The stock pacer was probably cleaner than the average Kitfox in terms of what could be improved since it would have already had some fairings on things that aren't normally faired on Kitfoxes. I'm hoping the article might give some ideas. I have always admired this airplane and saw it a few times at Airventure. Anyway, here is the article.

     

     

    1989_03_02.pdf

    great article but I don't get the mystery ship logo thing? I can't find anything on the interweb either. Am I missing something?


  15. I had never considered running without a vent line but the self venting theory makes a lot of sense. The only real advantage of a vent line is (with a see through line) is to see when the wing tanks are empty and landing should be a priority:o


  16. Don't use the single ring Pistons! They make it very hard to do a huff puff test and also don't have the side port. Despite the instructions stating the port isn't necessary, it IS needed. The top bearing will start to fail in less than 200 hours.

    they can supply 2 ring Pistons  which are very good quality,but make sure you use the genuine rotax cageless bearing and pin.

    cheers

    Dusty

    1 person likes this

  17. The ideal 670 won't have a rubber plug at the top of the flywheel housing but will look like a 582 with a bump either side by the case joint