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I have been through several sets of caps. When I first got this plane, they guy that had been flying it for 250 hrs before me never saw the service bulletin from Avid and never did the mod to put the goose neck vent lines in the gas caps. When I was rebuilding the plane, I did the mod using structural adhesive per the S.B. Since that time, I ahve built 3 different sets of caps using various epoxy's and glues found at auto parts stores for fixing gas tanks etc. None have lasted very long and in short order, they allow the fuel to seep inbetween the aliminum tube and the cap and it vents out across the top of the wing until the fuel level gets below the tubing. Last week when I took off with full tanks, I watched the fuel trailing off the wing for an hour until I burned / leaked enough fuel out of the left tank to get it below the level of the cap sticking into the tank.
So.... What caps are you guys using, and are you using the goose neck vent tube? What are you using to glue the tubes into the cap? Are you having any issue with fuel leaking out with full tanks?
70% of the time I dont have full tanks for the shorter local flights. But when I head up to the lodge I top off so I can get there and back and play around a bit while I am there.
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My cowl blanket also overlaps. I use 1/2" weatherstripping between the cowl and windshield. Isn't perfect but pretty good.
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My flying Kitfox has an "envelope" style firewall insulation cover. The top of it overlaps the edge of the firewall and forms a baffle that keeps the two ares (mostly) sealed from one another.
I have not decided exactly how I will do my project plane. I am contemplating the use of a strip of flexible silicone engine baffling from Spruce or similar source.
The silicone would be my choice - some older planes I have flown had felt there - others had the cowl riveted or screwed tightly to the firewall. Some booby in the FAA decided that since the Ercoupe aluminum cowl overlapped the firewall that a piece of stainless the shape of the rear of the cowling had to be put on the top rear of the firewall - under the aluminum skin of the fuselage - lots of pains that caused for the ones who didnt get it originally.
ED in MO
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Does any know if rotax has recommended using any other type of case seal since the original recommendation of Loctite 574 when sealing the two crank case halves together.
What types have any of you used without any failer of the seal.
Thanks for your input.
I use the permatex moto seal. That is what the local sled shops use for the engine build too. Have not had an issue with it failing... ever.
http://www.debrix.com/Permatex-Moto-Seal-1-Grey-Sealant-p/103-711-mw.htm
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My flying Kitfox has an "envelope" style firewall insulation cover. The top of it overlaps the edge of the firewall and forms a baffle that keeps the two ares (mostly) sealed from one another.
I have not decided exactly how I will do my project plane. I am contemplating the use of a strip of flexible silicone engine baffling from Spruce or similar source.
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Does any know if rotax has recommended using any other type of case seal since the original recommendation of Loctite 574 when sealing the two crank case halves together.
What types have any of you used without any failer of the seal.
Thanks for your input.
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Whats everyone using to seal the gap between the cowl and firewall? I'm undecided on which route to take.
Pics are always a plus
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Any Idea What kind of cost we are talking? This is pretty cool but I want an IFA prop first.
You know at this point I do not have a clue. I would call Airdale as Brett may have the original mold. If he does not have the mold then I can go to CAC Plastics and lay out a proposal for him to make a mold with a minium number of orders. I think the original cost of the pod was 350 to 500.
So, I think our first stop may be Airdale and then pursue having a form made in Alaska.
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Folding is not a real priority. I'll make longer prop rods for the tail. Yes it will be wider than 8', but, not a priority.
Wait until you see what I'm planning for the tail...
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Make sure that dorsal doesnt interfere with flaperon counterbalance weights when folding wings.
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Today's progress: Made a plate to mount the comm and GPS antennas, added a dorsal fin to get rid of the ugly flat-top look of the rear empinage, added two tubes that will be under the horizontal stabilizer as a place to run the fabric to, instead of ugly sheet metal covers.
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Any Idea What kind of cost we are talking? This is pretty cool but I want an IFA prop first.
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Ed, I would say they its more like the cross bar on an "A" rather than an "H" but hey whos to judge. Anyways i've had the same thought as i currently have the small 3/4" lift struts and was thinking of going with two separate ones and add the heim rod ends on both sides rather than just one. I saw these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kitfox-Aircraft-Strut-Set-/121021750195?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&nma=true&si=KnKIwhytIX9zuYZ%2BGt2Ltxemi5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc on ebay a while back and think something like this may be nice. any thoughts?
-Robert-
I didnt go to look at your reference yet - my puter is about as fast as a snail today - But, Yes, I want to make mine 7/8 with .058 or .065 wall connected to a short stub of the old 3/4 fitting at the fuselage, and insert another short tube inside of the old tube at fuselage fitting before welding the new ones on, and use rod ends at wing connects - best rod end I can find in Spruce is 3/8 threads and 5/16 hole ($17 each) - that should work - believe this is BIGGER than what was tested by Kitfox for about a 15G proof test, except they kept the 1/4 inch bolt, which bent. The rod end broke at 15G.
I can re-use my wood fairing strips on the new struts with a little sanding and epoxy.
The strut fitting at wing is too wide for rod end - so adding washers as spacers should work with the 5/16 bolt.
Dont really think the cross piece is necessary unless some engineering type person tells me why.
Thanks,
ED
get the Aurora rod end equivalent to the Heim - Lots cheaper.
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Ed, I would say they its more like the cross bar on an "A" rather than an "H" but hey whos to judge. Anyways i've had the same thought as i currently have the small 3/4" lift struts and was thinking of going with two separate ones and add the heim rod ends on both sides rather than just one. I saw these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kitfox-Aircraft-Strut-Set-/121021750195?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&nma=true&si=KnKIwhytIX9zuYZ%2BGt2Ltxemi5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc on ebay a while back and think something like this may be nice. any thoughts?
-Robert-
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hmmmm.. only if you want to be able to bolt them onto the wing.... :lol:/>/> which tube are you referring to Ed ??
:BC:/>/>
Sorry for not being clear - the early struts had a cross tube connecting the two strut tubes at the wing end of the struts - like the center bar in an "H". Some later model struts I saw were just two seperate tubes without this connecting tube - so, is it really needed, and why?
I'm not talking about the jury struts.
The Pipers have two independent struts, and no connecting tube.
ED in MO
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That looks like a great design. How much does it weigh?
With the hardware and cargo pod on a bath scale it looks to be 18 pounds.
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I had lots of those to tell, but want some of what I put on here to be believable. Will let you hold the title - FOR NOW ! Ever hear about the 2 guys who painted the Apache N-numbers with gray, washable paint and flew it under the Gateway Arch in St. Louis just as it was finished - They are still being hunted !
/>/>/>/>Hmm - when was I doing my commercial twin engine training - Hmm
ED
There are some stories I dont tell on here... they are only for sitting around the campfire when no cameras are rolling
My title was bestowed on me on the Matronics list by Mr. Jetpilot during a heated battle of the wits (he lost) and it led to us both being banned for a bit of time.. I about drove the poor mods crazy over there cause it only takes a couple minutes to make a new email and get back on through a proxy server and drive them crazy trying to figure out who I really was today
I guess I had way too much time on my hands at work -
Nice to see some movement on this one again! Looks like we are going to be spending some time on Akflyerbobs Mod III when I get back to try and get that one ready for the air so he can send it down river and move the Mod IV back in the garage and get it done... Maybe after that I can get him fired up on the Catalina again... Hint hint Mr. Bob, the Catalina needs to fly this summer
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170B is a sweet bird. A buddy had one with 180 HP and CS prop and that bird was a real sweetheart to fly! Cruised fast and would JUMP off the ground and climb like I would have never believed!! Congrats on the TD endorsement. 90% of my primary training was TD in the PA-12, 180 or scout that the local flying club had and I hated every flight after that in a 152 or 172 cause it made me feel lazy and not "in control" cause the damn thing stays straight on it own
The 108 flys very solid too, but I cant get over the tail on those darn things
To me they are like a Zenith 701 or the likes.. those planes dont fly, they are so damn ugly the earth repels them! 
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hmmmm.. only if you want to be able to bolt them onto the wing....
which tube are you referring to Ed ?? -
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As of today here she is, mounted in the rotator over at Dave's airplane factory. Let the games begin: Chop - Cut - Rebuild!
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Okay, kids. We're back at it again.
Here's my plane in the new Jig that we helped Brett build this past Saturday.
(Apologies in advance for the crappy cell phone photos.)
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So I went out last week and got my tailwheel endorsement in a 1955 Cessna 170B. It was great! what a very docile aircraft to fly. we spent two days 4.6 hrs TT and made landings at four airports in winds up to 15 KTS. it was a great time. Now if the weather would cooperate I have a flight up north to coeur d'Alene planed to pick up a Stinson 108-3 for a friend who just bought it and bring it back down here to southern Idaho. I will put up some pics of the flight once we get back. It will be the furthest north I've flown yet over some amazing country I'm looking forward to it.
-Robert-
congrats Robert - welcome to the TD club. I had mine about 100 years ago, along with my Motorcycle endorsment, but lost logbook in house fire in 1976 and never needed to get the TD or MC back again.
Good Flying,
ED in MO
P.S. If you need to get the Stinson off quickly, just get some speed up and grab the handle and pull flaps and it will jump off.
New Years at the Lodge
in Local Fly in's
akflyer
Posted
Just letting the locals know... We are going to be doing it up right at the Lodge this Newyears. Got a Pacer load or two of fireworks and it will be a great show. The company cant be beat and its a great place to hang out and enjoy a few beverages, catch some Pike, or base out of for flights to Denali or through rainy pass etc. I am planning on hanging out for 5 or 6 days there and enjoying any kind of flying we can do.
As of this time, there is only a few inches of snow on the runway. The "runway" is on the lake and Dan keeps it packed and groomed. It is around 1500' long and is marked with Spruce bows or black garbage bags on sticks so you can see it really well. As of now, landing there on wheels is not an issue but I always prefer ski's as there are other places we like to fly out to and land at.
For anyone who has never been there before, it is located on upper fish lake off the Yetna River about 10 miles below Skwentna. It is without a doubt my favorite place on earth. The view and the hosts cant be beat. http://www.alaskafishcreeklodge.com/
GPS N 61.57.602 W 150.57.839
Let me know if you are intersted as we have worked out a great rate for the lodge, based on a few factors ( we are flying in all the food etc so they wont have any real expense other than buring the wood and propane and diesel in the generator) but I need to have a pretty accurate head count to make sure we dont run out of anyting, especially adult beverages on newyears eve!