Activity Stream

1. You adjust during flight testing to correct heavy wing issues

2. I don't understand the riveting idea. How do you rivet a bushing to the end of an elongated (squashed) tube? If you build a jig you can make two complete struts exactly the same, making your dihedral equal.

Jigs cost money - rivets are cheap - Docs wont let me weld anymore - dont plan on squashing 7/8 inch tube - just insert the threaded end into it and rivet, or put a screw into it to hold it - could do same with wraparound end like early KF too.

ED

P.S. My airframe / wings, etc, were not welded in a jig like the factory built - Could be that one strut has to be a different length to get the same dihedral / warp.

I took a few pictures today of the gas caps on my MK IV, and also some on a C model that I picked up as a project. They are different, MK IV are metal, C model are plastic and have threads to screw them in. Which style do you have Leni? Take care, Jim Chuk

Dont see how these can interchange - the metal ones have ears like the Kitfoxes, and I buy them at Auto stores.

They are also like the $130 Piper caps that I buy for about $10 and put my own tubes on them.

ED in MO

I took a few pictures today of the gas caps on my MK IV, and also some on a C model that I picked up as a project. They are different, MK IV are metal, C model are plastic and have threads to screw them in. Which style do you have Leni? Take care, Jim Chuk

If anyone has a picture of the Avid metal cap, please post it up and I will see if I can find a replacement cap at the local parts house.

:BC:/>

There is an Attitude, T&B, Pitch & roll indicator on Ebay for about 20 more hours - the bids have gone ridiculous - I may have an inside track for more of these at about $21 (?) each - NO Electric - NOt IFR - No Venturi - used on RVs - Stick on top of IP - Anyone interested, let me know and I will see how many I can get - I make nothing on this - you deal with seller, not me. Real cute - had one mounted in my IP on KF2.

ED in MO

Can do that, but how do I know the trailing edge is close enough to (what?) to adjust?

Actually, instead of a jig, I am going to set dihedral and rivet the ends of the struts and take it to welder.

Ed

1. You adjust during flight testing to correct heavy wing issues

2. I don't understand the riveting idea. How do you rivet a bushing to the end of an elongated (squashed) tube? If you build a jig you can make two complete struts exactly the same, making your dihedral equal.

For the dihedral, set your wing tips on stands to the desired set and measure the length struts you need, then build a jig so that the bushings on the ends are exactly the same distance between, boom, you're there.

Adjusters belong on the rear in order to adjust the trailing edge to keep the dihedral (looking) symmetrical.

Can do that, but how do I know the trailing edge is close enough to (what?) to adjust?

Actually, instead of a jig, I am going to set dihedral and rivet the ends of the struts and take it to welder.

Ed

For the dihedral, set your wing tips on stands to the desired set and measure the length struts you need, then build a jig so that the bushings on the ends are exactly the same distance between, boom, you're there.

Adjusters belong on the rear in order to adjust the trailing edge to keep the dihedral (looking) symmetrical.

Good points Ed on the dihedral. I was thinking more in terms of adjusting the washout to fly hands off, not being far enough out to affect overall dihedral.

:BC:/>/>/>/>

Was thinking I could probably get within 1/4 inch or so, and dont think that would be noticed much on either - but very costly to redo without adjustment ends - so want all opinions before I cut and weld.

I've got elevator tabs for trim.

Thanks,

ED in MO

Another question: With the 1 3/4 washout on the old wing - Kitfox says to set the spars for 1 degree dihedral (thats about 13/16 block on end of 48 inch level) and (I have to check book) I believe, make the washout same on both wings - looks like there should be more precise figures on that?

ED

Good points Ed on the dihedral. I was thinking more in terms of adjusting the washout to fly hands off, not being far enough out to affect overall dihedral.

you can adjust the wing line up / pin install with the rear adjuster. The biggest thing is will it fly level hands off. I would much rather tweak the trailing edge instead of the leading edge, although right now, I would love to be able to pull some of the washout out of my wings.

You dont see trim tabs on the leading edge of anything.. Just my .02 and that aint worth much :lol:/>/>

:BC:/>/>

So what happens if I weld solid on the front and my dihedral is off on one wing? Fly with one wing low? Fly with stick off center? make adjustments to aileron controls instead of correcting dihedral at the strut?

Not trying to be sarcastic - real serious questions about this.

My wings arent finished, and I'm already wishing I had built them without that much washout.

ED in MO

you can adjust the wing line up / pin install with the rear adjuster. The biggest thing is will it fly level hands off. I would much rather tweak the trailing edge instead of the leading edge, although right now, I would love to be able to pull some of the washout out of my wings.

You dont see trim tabs on the leading edge of anything.. Just my .02 and that aint worth much

Yes I am on Ski's now. The plan is for me to be there the 28th till the 2nd or 3rd depending on weather. Not sure on who else will show up at our little corner of paradise.

How did you like the adjustors on the rear, I was thinking about doing them on each front strut attach point than you could tip the leading edge up or down as necessary. on one of my wings i currently have to pick up slightly on it to slip it into place to install the pin and thought that by having the adjustment in the front i could adjust this out of it.

-Robert-

I am inclined to agree with you - but still thinking about 4 - believe the greatest load is on the rear?

ED in MO

We used adjusters on the rear strut arms on the hybrid we built. I have the oem Kitfox struts for my project.

How did you like the adjustors on the rear, I was thinking about doing them on each front strut attach point than you could tip the leading edge up or down as necessary. on one of my wings i currently have to pick up slightly on it to slip it into place to install the pin and thought that by having the adjustment in the front i could adjust this out of it.

-Robert-

Looks like a very nice build if you're in the market for a Magnum.

Google N712GW, it's on Barnstormers and Controllers.com right now.

Contact Gary Mullen, Greenville NC, tel. 850-261-4322

We used adjusters on the rear strut arms on the hybrid we built. I have the oem Kitfox struts for my project.

Leni,

I plan to switch to skis before then so I can land wherever we decide to go. You are on skis now right? I will try to make it out there on the 28th if you are going to be there then. Will probably come backon the 29th and be back out there on the 30th through the 1st (if the weather cooperates).

Bob and Dave, are you guys going to make it?

I hope we get some good weather too; the wind here in Palmer have been pretty crazy 50's + and non-stop this winter. It finally got calm and clear yesterday so since I still have a caribou tag for unit 13 near Eureka I flew up there to look for some bou. Even in the "calm" winds I was doing 75 mph going up and 115mph coming back. Had a great 4 hour flight and was tempted to make the circuit around and down the Big Su since I was about to the Big Su just south of Lake Loise. But I had to go to the bathroom so bad and I am still on wheels so had to fly back to Eureka and land on the strip there that was packed snow. It was a beautiful, clear, -14 day up there though. Now I just have to get back up ther with the snow machine to get a bou.

Nice shot Randy!

The runway at the lodge is packed too so you can land there with wheels no problem. We landed the pacer there a few times in the last couple weeks. Not sure how much snow they got out of this last system so you may want to call ahead and see what Dan says on landing there with wheels now.

Hope to see you up there at newyears!

If I were building my own lift struts:

1. I would make them out of streamlined tubing and be able to forgo any farings
2. I would use only two threaded adjustments instead of the Kitfox design four - Avid only used one (Remember they are the weak link in the system)

Early Foxes only had one also - Now, if you want only two - which two?

And, if I remember the testing right, the rod end failed at 15G - and, I believe that rod end was smaller thread than I am planning.

I'm not stressed for 15G. Well, maybe I was with 2nd wife????/> "Thank God and Greyhound, she's Gone!" That was a great song by Roy Clark!

ED in MO

Ed, I would say they its more like the cross bar on an "A" rather than an "H" but hey whos to judge. Anyways i've had the same thought as i currently have the small 3/4" lift struts and was thinking of going with two separate ones and add the heim rod ends on both sides rather than just one. I saw these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kitfox-Aircraft-Strut-Set-/121021750195?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&nma=true&si=KnKIwhytIX9zuYZ%2BGt2Ltxemi5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc on ebay a while back and think something like this may be nice. any thoughts?

-Robert-

I finally got puter running better and looked at the reference you gave. I saw these before they sold - think they are stabilizer struts instead of wing struts from the price and looks of ends. Cheap price - rod ends would cost that much alone. I tried to bid on them, but "Flying Fish" has me blocked, since I got pissed off when he sold me a voltmeter with a cracked housing and I gave him some bad feedback.

ED in MO

Here are a few pics of my first MK IV right after I got it. What in particular were you wanting to see? I can get some of my latest MK IV later if you want. Take care, Jim Chuk

Thanks Jim,

Your installation looks like mine should be. I will look at all of the pictures I can.

Thanks,

Mark

I am using a radiator cap off a snowmachine now (13 pound cap) and the thermostat came from NAPA. Are the cheek radiators the one that mounts to front of the engine / gear box like the MK IV or are they the ones that mount in the side of the cowling? If they are the cowling mounted ones, I would SERIOUSLY think about going to the belly radiator and tossing the others out the window (from about 15,000')

I will look on the laptop when I get up to the room in a bit and see if I have any pics of the install on mine.

I bet Randy (suberavid has some good shots of the engine on his MK IV which should be about the same as yours.

:BC:/>

Yes, my radiators look like they mount just like Jim's do, on each side of the gear box. I like looking at all of the pictures I can, makes it much easier for me.

If I were building my own lift struts:

1. I would make them out of streamlined tubing and be able to forgo any farings
2. I would use only two threaded adjustments instead of the Kitfox design four - Avid only used one (Remember they are the weak link in the system)

Your idea of locating the pitot tube inside the wing to strut attachment, to protect it, is a golden idea.

I already have the wood fairings and the streamlined tubing costs a lot more than round, and weighs more too.

I actually have an old set of J3 struts, but they are way too heavy.

I am afraid that I might need an adjustment of the dihedral after welding - really would like only 2 rod ends, and guess if my adjustment was off, then I could cut the end and put a rod end on it.

Thanks,

I cant take credit for moving the pitot - that idea was given to me by someone on here.

ED

If I were building my own lift struts:

1. I would make them out of streamlined tubing and be able to forgo any farings
2. I would use only two threaded adjustments instead of the Kitfox design four - Avid only used one (Remember they are the weak link in the system)

Your idea of locating the pitot tube inside the wing to strut attachment, to protect it, is a golden idea.

sounds good Ed, keep us all posted on your progress as I may borrow your idea once I get that far

-Robert-

Something you might consider too - I am moving the pitot tube to the rib next inboard to the strut fitting - already broke 2 of them - going to wait until ready to cover to put another one on.

I have to move it forward anyway since I extended the leading edges 4 inches.

ED in MO

My plan - unless someone has a better idea, is to make the lower fittings, buy 6 tubes, make 4 threaded inserts for the rod ends (3/8-24 x 5/16 hole), call my flying buddy for help, set up my fuselage and attach wings with pvc pipe supports under them, set the dihedral and warp, and measure and cut the tubes to fit, then pin them together and take to welder, since I dont weld anymore. Then hope I did it right!

If I had not raised my cabin crossover attach tubes 6 inches, then I could just use the old struts as a pattern, but now mine have to be longer and the angle changed slightly.

ED