Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. John_L_Seagull added a post in a topic MANUVERING SPEEDS   

    Twin Soob's....cool

    I'm the same,keep a stable approach speed
    then flare is all out the window
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  2. EDMO added a post in a topic MANUVERING SPEEDS   

    Figured it was something like that. Will remark mine if I put twin Soobs on it! Been too long since I flew twins.
    For the single-engine, the red line should still be at stall speed, I think. I never look at it when landing - from flare to touchdown, too busy trying to fly - or not fly!!!
    Ed in MO
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  3. 4aplat added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   


    I broke my first Jabiru when I was a "beginner pilot"

    during my flight lessons with my instructor he always chuted off the engine one, two three times or more in half an hour so I lurn how to land anywhere.......... except the threes

    I did a lot of work on my jab and I know it will broke in the sky (but I don't know when !!!)

    So I always fly with what we call "une vache" (a field of cow) under the plane

    as you could see, It's not a matter of rotax !
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  4. C5Engineer added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   

    People keep saying that. This place is NOTHING compared to the crap we fly over up in Idaho. Maintain your equipment and have faith in your machine. What's the point of flying if all you do is worry about your engine quitting??? I fly for the rush, the freedom, and enjoyment and it's a risk I understand and accept. I don't consider flying across the flatlands at 5000ft from A to B flying it's more like driving. Do you kiss the hood of your car everyday before you drive it?? Driving down the freeway has about 100x better odds for something bad to happen to you than flying does especially in California. I am not trying to sound cocky or anything I am just tired of the 582 bashing all the time.
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  5. 4aplat added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   


    I'm sorry but I don't understand ...........
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  6. dholly added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   

    Hey 4aplat...

    So is that a dig on 2-strokes or Rotax engines in general?


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  7. dholly added a post in a topic Cowl / Firewall questions   

    Hmm... Larry, now that I think about it a little bit, I'm sure you're correct. I admit to only trying it on my model 3 which had a panel tank with fuel filler through the upper cowl. I can see how the lack thereof on the model 4's would require significantly less finagling. I will give it try, thanks!
    Still a fan of oil doors though!
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  8. dholly added a post in a topic AeroShell Sport Plus 4   

    Thanks Paul!

    $87.25 + $24.50 UPS shipping to upstate NY for me.
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  9. dholly added a post in a topic Leaky quick drain   

    Yes, by all means, check the O-rings first. I've had to rebuild mine. Use only Buna-N (Nitrile) or Hydrogenated Nitril (HNBR) ethanol-proof O-rings if you use auto gas. If you use auto gas and have a gascolator in your fuel circuit, ACS sells an ethanol proof gasket and mesh screen set you would also be wise to use.

    NEVER, EVER use Teflon tape in a fuel or hydraulic circuit. Screwing a fitting tight will often cause small shreds of tape to separate and find their way into the circuit with disastrous results, ie. think clogged carb jet on take off.

    I have used Permatex 9AR Tack 'n Seal with excellent results. Ethanol proof, recommended by Kitfox Aircraft and available cheap at automotive supply stores.

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  10. BryceKat added a post in a topic Leaky quick drain   

    Are you sure it's the threads? Might just need a new o ring (I think a #40) for it. If not,howabout some teflon tape? Bryce
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  11. egp8111 added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Leaky quick drain
    My quick drain leaks around where it is screwed into the fiberglass wing tank The treads in the tank are pretty stripped. Anyone have a good suggestion ? I'm tempted to epoxy it in Thanks Eg
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    • 509 views


  12. egp8111 added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Leaky quick drain
    My quick drain leaks around where it is screwed into the fiberglass wing tank The treads in the tank are pretty stripped. Anyone have a good suggestion ? I'm tempted to epoxy it in Thanks Eg
    • 6 replies
    • 906 views


  13. John_L_Seagull added a post in a topic MANUVERING SPEEDS   

    Multi-engine aircraft , have two additional airspeed markings
    (except really large aircraft)

    A red line near the lower limit of the airspeed range indicates minimum controllable airspeed, Vmc
    This is the lowest speed at which the airplane is controllable when one engine is inoperative and the other engine is operating at full power

    A blue line on the airspeed indicator marks best single-engine rate of climb airspeed Vyse
    This speed delivers the best rate of climb with one engine inoperative.

    ps:
    Airspeed indicators on large aircraft, like the Boeing 737-400
    don't have these markings because the speeds they represent vary considerably depending on aircraft weight, power settings, and other factors
    Pilots calculate these speeds before each takeoff and use markers called "bugs" on the airspeed indicator as reminders of those speeds under current conditions.
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  14. EDMO added a post in a topic MANUVERING SPEEDS   


    I had to take a second look at that too Doug.
    The Red line at the lower airspeed is in the wrong place. It should be below the green arc, and should indicate the stall speed. Some pilots put a short yellow arc between the red line and the lower end of the green arc to represent a safety factor before sure flying speed is reached, or to indicate being close to stall speed espedially when winds are gusty.
    The BLUE LINE - I never heard of it and dont have a clue, unless it could have something to do with one engine operation on a twin,
    But really dont think that is the answer. Got to dig out my AMT books again!!!
    Ed in MO
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  15. 4aplat added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   


    I really love the flight, but I wonder if you light a candle for St Rotax before starting the engine
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  16. wypaul added a post in a topic AeroShell Sport Plus 4   

    I just ordered in a case from the local oil distributor for $103.00 and it saves on the shipping cost. I did find it for about $87 + shipping here

    airplaneoil.com

    it ended up at around $108 to my door from them.

    Paul S Wyoming
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  17. High Country added a post in a topic Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer   

    I just made notches where they seemed to be good. I don't have wings yet but did get an e-mail from Brett today saying my new spars and ribs are going to ship tomorrow, Yea!!!

    -Robert
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  18. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic Cowl / Firewall questions   

    Doug - You can remove just the upper (back) cowl without removing the top of the ring on a 4-piece Kitfox cowl.
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  19. dholly added a post in a topic Short video ridgerunning my Avid   

    Looks like a heck of a lot of fun to me, two thumbs up!
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  20. dholly added a post in a topic Cowl / Firewall questions   



    - My Avid Mk-IV cowl was 2-pc, upper and lower.
    - My KF III and KF IV-1200 cowls are 4-pc, upper and lower main body plus upper and lower ring cowl.
    - My Aerotrek cowl is 2-pc, upper and lower plus fixed boot cowl.

    - Mk-IV cowl easy on/off, great access to back of panel.
    - KF cowls are P.I.T.A., ie. you must remove front ring cowl pcs before you can remove the main pcs. My KF III cowl had an oil check door, my IV-1200 does not (yet). For now, I must remove both top cowl pcs just to check oil level.
    - Aerotrek boot cowl is a single fixed piece that includes top and both sides. Zero easy access behind the panel, seems like the stupidest thing ever to me.

    - My Avid+ will have a 3-pc cowl set, one single lower cowl that extends to the door posts and a 2-pc top cowl, large main top plus small removable top boot cover for access to back of panel. Easier to do this now than trying to work up under the panel on your back in a cramped cabin. The small top boot also allows for better rain protection for your instruments when you top cowl is removed and may allow for a more effective or permanent weather-tight seal between windscreen and cowl. When it rained, my feet got wet in my KF III, lol.

    [edit] I thought the B and C models both used the vertical split cowl?? Don't think you can fit the two internal radiators under that cowl, that's one reason the Mk-IV cowl was redesigned with front air openings. I know a few who fitted Mk-IV cowls to their C models to use the internal radiators and are happy with the result. No cooling issues whatsoever. Personally, I'm not a fan of the external radiators aesthetically but sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. External mounting is easy and very flexible re: forward/backward positioning. I have attached some instructions from my KF manual for positioning with a scoop, might be helpful.
    Radiator 001.pdf
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  21. dholly added a post in a topic Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer   

    Robert-

    Looks good, glad someone is making progress! So did you put a digital bubble on the flaperons for any particular flaps extended %'s, or just kinda eyeball the detents? BTW, instructions how to resize your pics can be found in THIS THREAD
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  22. High Country added a post in a topic Converting original flapperon mixer to cable operated mixer   

    couple pics of the flap detente it will be bolted using the original flap mounting location and have two brackets riveted to it on the right side
    It was close area to work with so when i welded on the handle i angled it to the left you can see a small relief cut near where the handle is welded onto the rest of the unit to keep it from rubbing until it is far enough away to just pass by.

    [Edit] re-sized pics


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  23. High Country added a post in a topic Cowl / Firewall questions   


    I think I would like to go with the belly radiator but was wondering what is the best set up. seems like its pretty tight space either way I go. I was hoping go see some pics of both and see what you guys think is best. what is the measurement from the bottom of the opening on the front (below the prop) down the seam to where it ends. I'm planning on cutting out a big chunk of the bottom to pull the exhaust forward and need to know how far to cut to. some pics of this area would be great especially if the exhaust and belly radiator are installed. I believe this is the same set up that Joey has.

    -Robert-
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  24. C5Engineer added a topic in Avid fox flyers pics and vids   

    Short video ridgerunning my Avid
    Threw this together today..it's kinda cheezy but thought you guys might enjoy.


    • 11 replies
    • 3,248 views


  25. efil 01 added a post in a topic Cowl / Firewall questions   

    hi robert,

    what type of radiator do you want to use?
    my plane is exactly the same as your and is in the same step of building process.
    i keep original C cowl, better look for me and is more aerodynamic than MK4 cowl; then i go for belly mont of radiator.
    about leg room, you will note by sitting in the plane on tubes that you can have plenty of leg room if you modify a bit the seat.
    sorry i don't have pics of my mod and i'm not working on the plane those days; and my plane is 40km from home


    manu.
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