Activity Stream

Activity Stream



  1. Av8r_Sed added a post in a topic Cabin Heat   

    From what I've heard, it's not impossible to get carb ice in the Bings on a 582, but it apparently isn't a common occurrence.  I believe in Canada a carb heat system is still required on 582 installations.
    • 0


  2. tbucket added a post in a topic KITFOX RIBS   

    thanks Ed for the reply I was looking at the price for aircraft spruce and wicks I was hopeing that there were a cheaper route than ordering from either place I have done the calculating of the 2 wings and come up with 245 feet of capstrip you had mention about cutting your own.... would you cut from 1/8 plywood and if so what kind. I don t have a problem doing this if it would be cheaper and just as good as the capstrip
    thanks Bob
    • 0


  3. akflyer added a post in a topic Ultimate oops   

    That will bring a tear to your eye... I dont know if I could live with myself if I did something like that!
     

    • 0


  4. akflyer added a post in a topic Cabin Heat   

    if you have in cowl radiators use the scoop behind a radiator to "preheat" the air, then use a heat muff for the best heat.  I dont know of any 582 that has had carb heat issues.  Not sure if its because they draw the air from inside the cowling that is already pretty warm or not, but carb heat is not needed on them.
     

    • 0


  5. allonsye added a topic in Avid Model C   

    Cabin Heat
    What the preferred method of cabin heat on the Avids? Radiator or exhaust muff. I have none and I'm seriously thinking of adding mod as I work on my FWF project.
     
    Now that I think of it, why dosen't the R-582 utilize carb heat - why does it not need it?
    • 26 replies
    • 8,257 views


  6. EDMO added a post in a topic Ultimate oops   

    If they are like the ones I had on my garage, they only stop the door when something is blocking the beam on the floor - and until the tail hit the floor, there was nothing to stop it? Bet this will cost a lot more than my bird!
    EDMO
    • 0


  7. horsepower added a post in a topic Ultimate oops   

    That might have been a good time to have one of those OSHA approved garage door sensors that wont allow the door to come down when there is something in the way.Poor Bastard............Randy
    • 0


  8. EDMO added a post in a topic AK 670 Powered Kitfox on Barnstormers   

    After thinking for a while - which is difficult at my age - I believe the newer operating limitations allow you to make a logbook entry for a major change, but you may have to put it back into Phase I for at least 5 hours.I'm sure someone knows about this.
    EDMO
    • 0


  9. EDMO added a post in a topic KITFOX RIBS   

    Bob, I got them from Spruce - 1/8 x 1 inch @ .55 a foot - I wanted 38 inches, and the order-taker said if I ordered it that was it would cost me another foot for the 2 inches over 3 feet - but she modified my order to the total number of feet I needed to save me money, and said they would cut it at 38 inches each piece. I think Wicks wanted .85 per foot? I could have cut them out of plywood cheaper, but trying to get this bird done and just went with the easiest.EDMO
    If you are planning to modify your undercamber ribs, then I need to say that I am using the full capstrips on the ribs that don't support the "flaps/ailerons", and on the supporting ribs I am not cutting the web, so I don't weaken the support, but using capstrips back to the spar, and adding aluminum angles on each side of web from there back to the trailing edge.
    I will post some photos when I get the first rib done.
    ED
    • 0


  10. tbucket added a post in a topic KITFOX RIBS   

    Ed where did you order your capstrips and if you don t mind me asking what did it cost you?
    thanks Bob
    • 0


  11. EDMO added a post in a topic Ultimate oops   

    Cant think of a good comment on this crunchy - But I think I hear my teeth gritting - They are in a cup of water in the bathroom!
    EDMO
    • 1


  12. EDMO added a post in a topic 100LL   

    I wonder what kind of dye they put into gas to color it - We used to have colored gas on the farm, and for planes too - That would show a leak real fast - it showed up on our carbs too, so the govment could tell if you were using farm gas on highway vehicles and not paying the road tax.EDMO
    • 0


  13. C5Engineer added a topic in Close Call's and dumb stunts   

    Ultimate oops
    Came across this in the Oops folder on SC.org today. I can't even fathom standing there BSing with a buddy about how awesome of flight you just had as you hit the button on the hangar door. About the time your bragging about your sweet landing you hear a the sound of sheet metal crushing. By the time you get done running around in circles trying to figure out WTF is going on your plane is totalled.
     

    • 7 replies
    • 6,669 views


  14. Mendlerr added a post in a topic 100LL   

    Good to know. If I can't fly my friends pa-28-180 today then I'm going to drain my tanks. I'll give it a test
    • 0


  15. C5Engineer added a topic in Avidfoxflyers General Hangar   

    Did Mikuni go to a new style pump?
    CPS sells the rebuild kits for the round dual outlet pump but I don't see the round one available as new anymore. I've rebuilt mine once before and the difference between a new one and a rebuild kit isn't much so I was just going to replace the whole thing this time. This is what they show for a dual outlet one now.
     

     
    Lockwood shows yet another one that is also different from what I'm currently running
     
    http://www.lockwood.aero/p-2068-dual-fuel-pump-replaces-994-485-nd-please-note-this-fuel-pump-does-not-have-the-same-bent-fittings-so-please-make-sure-to-route-your-lines-prop.aspx
     
    Are these a new style or am I just way behind the times? I am replacing my entire fuel system this year so it's not a big deal to replumb just curious if these are any better or if I should just rebuild my other pump again. The CPS tech article on fuel delivery suggests you rebuild them every two years or 300 hours. Might be something to add to your to-do list if you haven't done it in a while. $15 and 15 minutes is about all it takes.
    • 0 replies
    • 749 views


  16. Av8r3400 added a post in a topic 100LL   

    The best/cheapest tester for the presence of ethanol contamination in your fuel is plain food coloring.
     
    Take your sample of fuel, add a couple drops of your favorite color and if it colors the fuel, ethanol contamination is present.  If it sinks to the bottom forming a little colored droplet, you have clean fuel.
    • 1


  17. EDMO added a post in a topic AK 670 Powered Kitfox on Barnstormers   

    Please don't quote this to the FAA or your IA: Experimentals don't come under the same rules as certified - A certified would probably require you to buy an STC, or if in Alaska, and NOT in Missouri, you might get a field approval for a certified mod. AND, it would require a form 337 signed by an IA and approved by the FAA.
    The best rule I have ever heard is: "It never happened if you don't report it". !!!!
    You will need to do new W&B for your bird, but you can do that anytime you want to without any major changes - You don't need an IA at all - Just an A&P for conditional inspections every 12 months. And, you can remove wings, repair fabric, other maintenance, repair, rebuild, recover...etc.
    ED
    • 0


  18. EDMO added a post in a topic Gas tank   

    Thanks Chris,
    I believe Hysol 9430 is the gray stuff sold by Spruce - I had thought about trying it, since it is about $60 a quart kit, instead of the 9460 that Kitfox sells for $100 a pop, which I have just ordered AGAIN to remodel my wing ribs and do other things. Guess I could have used T-88 since my ribs are glued with that, but needed "Other things" glued too.
    None of us are "nose wheel experts" - Those guys work for Boeing and other big companies - we just "Xperiment" and hope for the best!
    EDMO
    • 0


  19. Guest added a post in a topic Gas tank   

    I re-read my post and it was confusing. What I meant to say is that you wil be fine with any coating I tested with Avgas or autogas without alcohol and with marvel mystery oil additive if you like that particular additive.
     
    I did notice some discoloration of the Buna N rubber compound with regular auto gas and in the seafoam additive, but no loss of integerity of the coating.
     
    The Buna N rubber was definitely the nicest coating to apply and use, but it deterioriated quickly in ethanol, so I ruled it out in case I accidently put ethanol in without knowing it.
     
    The epoxy's I tested and the polysulfide sealer were impervious to the alcohol, but in my case the fiberglass wasn't.
     
    The structural epoxy I tested was Hysol 9430 I think. It is a clear two part. Got it from aircraft spruce, but couldn't find it on the site just now. I could have the number wrong I'm not at home where I can look.
     
    Hope that is more clear. It's always harder to write something down so it makes sense than to just talk about it!  
     
    not a nose gear expert, but have some experience with various nosewheel configurations.
    • 0


  20. akflyer added a post in a topic KITFOX RIBS   

    I would take one of the ribs and piece it back together, or remove a good rib and use it for a pattern.  I dont know of anyone locally I could get a good pattern from to send to you, all the guys I know here have the STOL ribs.
     

    • 0


  21. EDMO added a post in a topic KITFOX RIBS   

    You might get more responses if you start a new topic here and label it "Avid Ribs" - Think the Avids outnumber the Kitfoxes on here.EDMO
    • 0


  22. Mendlerr added a post in a topic 100LL   

    yup that works very well.  tested the fuel we put into Roy's Mini-Max (check the vid posted on this forum).
     
    the calibrated gauges are nice so you know how bad a particular gas company is bending you over.
    • 0


  23. Deejayel added a post in a topic 100LL   

    For ethanol testing, use an olive jar, ketchup jar etc... Mark a line about 1" from the bottom, fill to that line with water, and then fill to the top with the gas you are testing. Shake and let it settle....

    Ethanol mixes with water and you will notice your "water level" has risen. If it is e-free, the water level will stay the same.

    Or just get some cake food coloring and drip a few drops in the test bottle. The color will mix with ethanol laced gas not with pure gas.
    • 0


  24. Mendlerr added a post in a topic 100LL   

    I will ask Charlie, one of our local CubCrafter owners (we have 3 now, all matching).  He bought a calibrated gauge, he uses it everytime he fills up.  It tells him exactly how much ethanol and water is in the fuel and it only take a couple of minutes.  I doubt it cost much.
     
    Here we go $.6.50 + Shipping
     
    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/fb/fueltesters/gasoholTester.php
     
    I was going to take Charlies ethanol tester and take my fuel sampler and transfer the marks over with a sharpie.  Problem solved for me.  The calibration should remain the same considering they are both the same size tester..  I have the ASA sampler tube
    • 0


  25. EDMO added a post in a topic 100LL   

    Guess it would be wise for all of us to buy and carry an alcohol/water tester - Where? Spruce? What kind is best?
    EDMO
    • 0