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Got the runs...

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Posted (edited)

First off, i've changed my name to AlmostAirworthy because its taken me almost 3 months to get around to fixing my broken wing, replacing two ribs and finally recovering it.

Last night I decided to follow the Stits manual and spray on a coat of poly brush over top of whats already been brushed on to get that smooth finish and look. Well that was a bad idea. My lovely new HVLP turbine unit works great. The problem is that i'm not a painter and probably should stick to roller coating things. I ended up putting on way too much and it ran like a gut shot coyote. I tried to fix what i could with some reducer and a brush then ended up wiping with reducer and a rag and touching up with a brush. I got so fed up as it dried i decided to leave it until tonight and then mess with it some more.

My question to everyone who uses the poly system is whether or not i should have just brushed on a top coat of poly brush then went on to the poly spray? Any suggestions or tip would be much appreciated.

I need to get this wing done and back on the plane before it starts getting really cold outside and the wife demands her space in the garage back.

Darcy

Edited by AlmostAirworthy

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Well, if you have the latest manual with all the cartoons and avoid Airport Leroy's advice, then you are on the right track.For me the secret to spray;ing these coatings right was proper thinning of the coating for the prevailing air temp and doing the spraying in as low a humidity as pracitcal.With any of these poly fiber coatings, that first lite mist spray coat is the key to get subsiquent coats to stick and not run.Spray the first mist/presticker coat so that it is there but doesn't shine up.the time to spray next /final coat is very dependent on air temp.Manual says 15 min., this summerI was spraying at 7 to 10 min between mist/full coats, temps in mid 70's.Second coat I'd just spray on enough polybrush to get the shine showing.Any more you risk the runs again.Practice gun distance and rate of travel on some cardboard to get a handle on what your equipment is doing.Done right the final paint coat will feel just like glass.

Hang in there with it, follow the manual, it'll work.

Mike in Sask

First off, i've changed my name to AlmostAirworthy because its taken me almost 3 months to get around to fixing my broken wing, replacing two ribs and finally recovering it.

Last night I decided to follow the Stits manual and spray on a coat of poly brush over top of whats already been brushed on to get that smooth finish and look. Well that was a bad idea. My lovely new HVLP turbine unit works great. The problem is that i'm not a painter and probably should stick to roller coating things. I ended up putting on way too much and it ran like a gut shot coyote. I tried to fix what i could with some reducer and a brush then ended up wiping with reducer and a rag and touching up with a brush. I got so fed up as it dried i decided to leave it until tonight and then mess with it some more.

My question to everyone who uses the poly system is whether or not i should have just brushed on a top coat of poly brush then went on to the poly spray? Any suggestions or tip would be much appreciated.

I need to get this wing done and back on the plane before it starts getting really cold outside and the wife demands her space in the garage back.

Darcy

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Posted

Adjusting the gun is another thing that new painters have problems with, reduce the amount of spray until a 2 count pull of the trigger doesn't run, just stand up some scrap cardboardboard and spray, between that and proper thining you should get it in no time. as long as you have the proper number of coats on I would wait until you have polyspray on before attempting to sand out the runs.

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I found when I was shooting with the turbine, I had to change the needle and play with the stop on the trigger. I also never shot with the air valve cranked wide open as it would dry too quick and not flow good. I would run the air open about 2/3 of the way, then play with the trigger stop so I could put a full squeeze on the trigger and get the spray I wanted. After that it is just keeping the gun square and getting your travel speed right. I made a paint booth in the garage with tarps. I found that shooting the cardboard, the paper would soak up alot of the spray. I started using the plastic walls on the paint booth to get the spray pattern I wanted and things went very smooth after that! Stick with it and get the gun set and it will lay down a beautiful paint job!

:BC:

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Thanks guys.

So after some discussion with a friend who sprays poly brush, spray and tone regularly, i found the biggest mistake i was making was not changing from the stock needle to a small one. I was blasting WAY more material at the wing than i needed to. Which was obvious by the runs. I managed to dress out the smaller runs with a brush before it dried and used some reducer on a rag to clean up the rest. After an hour of that i was back in the game. I brushed on a couple coats where i rubbed with reducer to make sure the weave was filled. Then i resprayed a couple coats on the wings with the first coat being a fine mist as per the manual and your suggestions. Worked like magic. I've been using the plastic on the paint booth walls as a test spot. I'm no painter and never will be but I am really happy with the progress. I sprayed the Poly-spray on with a fine cross coat first and then when it was ready did the other two cross coats and it looked great. I sprayed the ploy tone on the one side of the wing with the same patience and care with really good results. I can't wait to get home tonight and start on the other side. I'll post some pics of the whole process minus the runs :) once i finish.

I did build a nice little paint booth in the garage with some scrap lumber and a couple rolls of plastic from the local hardware store. Worked great!

Thanks for the advice on this. As much as i hate painting, i resolved to forcing myself to learn to do this and do it right so next time it won't be so intimidating.

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