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another kitfox 1 question

9 posts in this topic

Posted

So I have seen a few other kitfoxes with aluminum pieces riveted on the top of the front and rear spar upper carry through tubes, Now on the newer ones I don't see that anymore, I have all the aluminum pieces and rivets and I'm sure I could figure out how to do it , but is it necessary and does it do much

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Posted (edited)

TJay,

Those parts are for attaching the windscreen and skylight, and to make a slot for the turtledeck to slide into - some planes have one-piece WS and SL, but I think that is a bad idea - some have had problems with the WS cracking and have had to replace it - no need to have to pay for a larger lexan by having the SL as a part of the WS. I would have to look at my KF1 manual, but there are different ways to do this - I can look at my KF4 manual if you need other ideas. I like my SL to be a dark tint. I use a light bronze for other windows and TD.

EDMO

You may rivet the aluminum to the crosstubes, but I think it is better to bolt the WS and SL with rubber or plastic washers under the bolt heads instead of rivets which can cause cracking. This is more work, but could prevent replacing parts later on.

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

I would sure like to see some directions on how it all works. there is nothing in my build manual about this or turtle deck building

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Posted (edited)

post-399-0-41916000-1420811958_thumb.jpg

I will look at my Kitfox 4 and Avid Magnum manuals and see what I can post on here for you.

EDMO

Here is a page from the Kitfox 1 manual - you should have it and some other pages - look at page number. My other manuals are not as clear, but I could make a drawing if you really need it.

I would make it a 2-piece assembly, and make the front attachment like the rear, without the spacer, and cover with aluminum strip - you may want to put some sealer on the front joint - make sure it is compatable with lexan and Plexiglas. You may want to make the front angle wider so you can bolt both the WS and SL separately to it.

If you don't have the drawing and directions for fitting the WS to the door frame, I can post it when you need it.

The SL should be wider to overlap the wing joint - you need to clear the spot where the pin goes into the spar.

Ed

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

Thanks Ed I dont have any of those pages it really helps

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Posted

I will post some more for you later today or tonight.

EdMO

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Posted (edited)

post-399-0-55155000-1420842514_thumb.jpgpost-399-0-05902300-1420842548_thumb.jpgpost-399-0-27339900-1420842579_thumb.jpg

TJay,

       Here are 3 pages of Skylight info from the Avid Magnum manual.

The (CF) Cover and Finish section in the KF1 manual is about 20 pages - If you will PM me your address, I will copy them and mail them to you at no charge - this is easier as I share this computer with a college student - sometimes I get very little access.

     I can also copy the drawing of the bottom plate for the Rotax engine and send it - if you need it.

I don't like either the Avid or Kitfox turtledeck with the hinge in it that always leaks - The KF One-piece Lexan is a good one, but you have to bend the Lexan - Probably better is to make sides and top separate and join them with aluminum angles.

     Search Turtledeck or "Raising the Skylight" posts on here and you may get some ideas.

Do you have the drawing of the center support for the Skylight, or any other pages you need - Let me know and I will include it in the mailing.

     Hope this helps - 3 attachments added,

EdMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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Posted

I had nothing but trouble with my WS. I made it into a 3 piece WS. Been using it for a couple years now and no stress cracks yet. The old one piece WS only lasted a few months before cracking.

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Posted (edited)

I had nothing but trouble with my WS. I made it into a 3 piece WS. Been using it for a couple years now and no stress cracks yet. The old one piece WS only lasted a few months before cracking.

I know how you made yours - Seeing the Cub on the front of SA this month got me to wondering about adding the corner angles and making mine like that, but moving the angles forward and more up to crossover tube.

EdMO

Edited by Ed In Missouri

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