WARP DRIVE PROP INFO NEEDED

[EDMO 1078]

I got my used WD 3 blade SAE-2 triangle-shaped hub today - No instructions except 120 torque written on side of it. This is not the Rotax pattern.

This looks like it was made to go on 6 bosses, but my drive adapter is flat, except for center boss - just tapped for 3/8 (I think) bolts -

Can anyone tell me the correct way to mount this, or where can I get the bosses / spacers to fit it? Would the inserts for wood props work?

Anyone have a copy of factory instructions they could copy for me?

Thanks,

ED in MO

P.S. My Reductions EA-81 was bought from a guy in Canada who had a WD prop on it - but he kept the prop.

ED

Edited 15 Dec 2012 by Ed In Missouri

[SuberAvid 617]

Hi Ed,

I am not sure if I picture what you are describing with yours but it should be the same as mine even though I am using the SAE1 bolt pattern. I have a prop extension that goes between the redrive and the triangle aluminum prop hub. There is a male and female side to the prop extension in the center but the prop extension just reflects the drive flange so it should not matter is you use an extension or not. The prop hub should fit over the male shoulder in the center of the drive to keep it centered. Mine uses the 3/8 prop bolts as well. Mine has no drive lug sleves on the bolts, it just bolts directly onto the drive or onto the prop extension. The 3/8" bolts are torqued to 360 in-lbs. The 1/4" clamp bolts are only needed on the outside edge of the hub when you have the 3/8" drive bolts. I don't remember offhand what the torque is for the 1/4" bolts but it is a lot less. I can send you a copy of my instructions but you will probbly need to get the WD protractor to set your prop so if you order one it will come with the instructions. If you already have the protractor but not the instructions just let me know and I will copy a set for you. Yours might be different than mine and may be set up for the drive lugs on the bolts. If there are no drive sleeves on your redrive then you may be able to cut down some drive sleeves and insert them in your hub just to fill the gap and bolt it on. I would call WD and ask them about it though. The other option would be to call WD and trade your hub in on one without the drive sleeve setup. WD is very good about trading in and rebuilding their props. Both Jack and I have done it with used props we bought and they are very reasonable and nice to deal with.

Randy

[EDMO 1078]

Hi Ed,

I am not sure if I picture what you are describing with yours but it should be the same as mine even though I am using the SAE1 bolt pattern. I have a prop extension that goes between the redrive and the triangle aluminum prop hub. There is a male and female side to the prop extension in the center but the prop extension just reflects the drive flange so it should not matter is you use an extension or not. The prop hub should fit over the male shoulder in the center of the drive to keep it centered. Mine uses the 3/8 prop bolts as well. Mine has no drive lug sleves on the bolts, it just bolts directly onto the drive or onto the prop extension. The 3/8" bolts are torqued to 360 in-lbs. The 1/4" clamp bolts are only needed on the outside edge of the hub when you have the 3/8" drive bolts. I don't remember offhand what the torque is for the 1/4" bolts but it is a lot less. I can send you a copy of my instructions but you will probbly need to get the WD protractor to set your prop so if you order one it will come with the instructions. If you already have the protractor but not the instructions just let me know and I will copy a set for you. Yours might be different than mine and may be set up for the drive lugs on the bolts. If there are no drive sleeves on your redrive then you may be able to cut down some drive sleeves and insert them in your hub just to fill the gap and bolt it on. I would call WD and ask them about it though. The other option would be to call WD and trade your hub in on one without the drive sleeve setup. WD is very good about trading in and rebuilding their props. Both Jack and I have done it with used props we bought and they are very reasonable and nice to deal with.

Randy

Thanks for the info Randy,

I am bidding on a WD protractor right now. Question: Your hub does not have the 5/8 diameter x 7/8 deep counterbores on the side that mounts to your engine? Maybe they make them with and without?

If they only come with counterbores, then I will get bushings from WD or have them made locally - If WD says I can trade for one without them, I will try that. The one I have came off of a Lycoming which has the drive bosses.

I will let you know in the future if I need any instructions copied.

ED in MO

[EDMO 1078]

Somebody ran the bid up on the protractor higher than you can buy a new one. I am going to call WD and see what I need to do, and will buy some new blocks, bolts, and protractor while at it. I wont need the blades for a while, unless I can buy some used ones at a discount.

Thanks again for the info Randy - I will post the info I get on this.

ED in MO

P.S. We never know who we may rub shoulders with - I used to work with the brother of the guy who owns WD props while I was supervisor with the Coast Guard - small world, sometimes. He gave me a WD T-shirt and cap.

Edited 16 Dec 2012 by Ed In Missouri

[1avidflyer 1983]

I've used the WD protractor, but if you want to get real accurate setting your prop, build a device that holds a lazer tight to the blade. The lazer can shine halfway accross the hangar. Mark that spot on the wall and then set the other 2 blades to the same spot. The one I built has a stop at the end of the blade and 2 on the top. 3 screws screwed in just the right amount touch the flat side of the blade. It ends up at the exact same place on each blade because of this and so it will shine the lazer very accuratly. I just looked in my pictures and I didn't find any pics of mine. If I'm able to, I'll try to get some tomorrow so you can see what I'm talking about. Take care, Jim Chuk

Somebody ran the bid up on the protractor higher than you can buy a new one. I am going to call WD and see what I need to do, and will buy some new blocks, bolts, and protractor while at it. I wont need the blades for a while, unless I can buy some used ones at a discount.

Thanks again for the info Randy - I will post the info I get on this.

ED in MO

P.S. We never know who we may rub shoulders with - I used to work with the brother of the guy who owns WD props while I was supervisor with the Coast Guard - small world, sometimes. He gave me a WD T-shirt and cap.

[EDMO 1078]

I've used the WD protractor, but if you want to get real accurate setting your prop, build a device that holds a lazer tight to the blade. The lazer can shine halfway accross the hangar. Mark that spot on the wall and then set the other 2 blades to the same spot. The one I built has a stop at the end of the blade and 2 on the top. 3 screws screwed in just the right amount touch the flat side of the blade. It ends up at the exact same place on each blade because of this and so it will shine the lazer very accuratly. I just looked in my pictures and I didn't find any pics of mine. If I'm able to, I'll try to get some tomorrow so you can see what I'm talking about. Take care, Jim Chuk

Sounds like a winning idea - Thanks,

ED in MO

[dholly 718]

I lent out my old protractor but just bought a digital angle gauge from Harbor Freight, I liked that you can zero it out against the prop plate. Anyone try this thing for setting blades?

[EDMO 1078]

I lent out my old protractor but just bought a digital angle gauge from Harbor Freight, I liked that you can zero it out against the prop plate. Anyone try this thing for setting blades?

Doug,

Ive had one of those for a long time - not set any blades with it, but it sure is handy for everything else you want to measure. I used mine to draw the prints of my nose gear parts and pivot angles.

ED in MO

Edited 17 Dec 2012 by Ed In Missouri

[1avidflyer 1983]

I was going to mention that you could use one of those to set the first blade if you had some idea where you should start, and then use the lazer to get the other blades to the exact same pitch as the first one. Got tired of typing in the other post though! Take care, Jim Chuk

Doug,

Ive had one of those for a long time - not set any blades with it, but it sure is handy for everything else you want to measure. I used mine to draw the prints of my nose gear parts and pivot angles.

ED in MO

[EDMO 1078]

I was going to mention that you could use one of those to set the first blade if you had some idea where you should start, and then use the lazer to get the other blades to the exact same pitch as the first one. Got tired of typing in the other post though! Take care, Jim Chuk

First, I need some blades - well, first, I need to finish my plane and then put blades on it.

Thanks, ED

[1avidflyer 1983]

Yesterday I mentioned that I would try to post some pictures of my lazer/prop setting tool, so here it is. Before I put the skis on the Avid today, I snapped a few pics of it. The nice thing about it is that it's so sensitive, you can watch the lazer beam move as you tighten the clamping bolts and tighten the oposite bolt to bring the pointer back on the mark. It's easy to get the lazer point within 1/8" at 20'. Being as how the blade is only about 4" wide at the point being measured, that is pretty accurate I think. Take care, Jim Chuk

First, I need some blades - well, first, I need to finish my plane and then put blades on it.

Thanks, ED

[EDMO 1078]

Yesterday I mentioned that I would try to post some pictures of my lazer/prop setting tool, so here it is. Before I put the skis on the Avid today, I snapped a few pics of it. The nice thing about it is that it's so sensitive, you can watch the lazer beam move as you tighten the clamping bolts and tighten the oposite bolt to bring the pointer back on the mark. It's easy to get the lazer point within 1/8" at 20'. Being as how the blade is only about 4" wide at the point being measured, that is pretty accurate I think. Take care, Jim Chuk

Looks like a real good idea - Do you put a mark on the lazer spot so you can repeat?

ED in MO

[1avidflyer 1983]

Sure, just set the first blade, mark where the lazer is pointing, and then get the other blade (or two) to hit the same mark. If you look at the third picture, below the lazer mark hitting the electrical tape, you see a couple of magic marker marks on the wood 2X4. Those were targets other times when I used this thing. One thing though is the plane can't move when you are doing this or ofcourse it wouldn't work. Pull a plug out of each cylinder and just turn the prop slowly and gently. Take care, Jim Chuk

Looks like a real good idea - Do you put a mark on the lazer spot so you can repeat?

ED in MO

[dholly 718]

One thing though is the plane can't move when you are doing this or ofcourse it wouldn't work. Pull a plug out of each cylinder and just turn the prop slowly and gently. Take care, Jim Chuk

Ahh, was wondering how you handled that. This issue was one of the reasons I went with the digital angle gauge, just zero to the prop plate after moving the next blade into position.

[EDMO 1078]

Ahh, was wondering how you handled that. This issue was one of the reasons I went with the digital angle gauge, just zero to the prop plate after moving the next blade into position.

Dont mean to bust your bubble )pun intended( but, arent you still using the bubble level to set your blade up for the lazer? could this affect accuracy?

Merry Christmas,

ED in MO

[1avidflyer 1983]

Ed, not sure if you were addressing this to me or Doug, but if it's me, then here goes. Suppose they tell you to set your prop to 10 degrees and see what it gives you for static RPM. Okey, so you set the first blade to that 10 degrees with the angle gauge or WD protractor or what ever else you can set the 10 degrees with. Then using the lazer tool, you adjust the other blade or 2 to match the first blade. Take care, Jim Chuk

Dont mean to bust your bubble )pun intended( but, arent you still using the bubble level to set your blade up for the lazer? could this affect accuracy?

Merry Christmas,

ED in MO

[EDMO 1078]

Ed, not sure if you were addressing this to me or Doug, but if it's me, then here goes. Suppose they tell you to set your prop to 10 degrees and see what it gives you for static RPM. Okey, so you set the first blade to that 10 degrees with the angle gauge or WD protractor or what ever else you can set the 10 degrees with. Then using the lazer tool, you adjust the other blade or 2 to match the first blade. Take care, Jim Chuk

Jim,

I wasnt referring to setting the blade angle - somehow you have to set the blade vertical each time before using the lazer, so was guessing that the only way to do that would be with the bubble level on the lazer - Am I correct on this? If so, then we are back to relying on a bubble level for setting, I guess?

ED in MO

[1avidflyer 1983]

Hi Ed, look at the last picture, it shows the prop and the lazer line on the wall. If you twist the blade, the lazer line will move sideways. If you rotate the prop, the lazer line will move up or down. After you mark the spot the lazer is hitting when it's on the first blade, the next blade will be at the same location if when the lazer tool is on it and the lazer light is hitting the target. (blade doesn't have to be level, you could have your mark on the ceiling if you wanted, as long as you hit the same mark with the next blade.) Hope that is clear. Thanks, Jim Chuk

Jim,

I wasnt referring to setting the blade angle - somehow you have to set the blade vertical each time before using the lazer, so was guessing that the only way to do that would be with the bubble level on the lazer - Am I correct on this? If so, then we are back to relying on a bubble level for setting, I guess?

ED in MO

Edited 20 Dec 2012 by Jim Chuk

[EDMO 1078]

Hi Ed, look at the last picture, it shows the prop and the lazer line on the wall. If you twist the blade, the lazer line will move sideways. If you rotate the prop, the lazer line will move up or down. After you mark the spot the lazer is hitting when it's on the first blade, the next blade will be at the same location if when the lazer tool is on it and the lazer light is hitting the target. (blade doesn't have to be level, you could have your mark on the ceiling if you wanted, as long as you hit the same mark with the next blade.) Hope that is clear. Thanks, Jim Chuk

"I can see clearly now", said the blind man to the deaf man! Just Kidding! I finally figured out what you are doing, and it sure looks like a winner. I have a lazer level too - will try it someday.

Thanks,

Merry Christmas,

ED in MO

Edited 20 Dec 2012 by Ed In Missouri