flywise
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Posts posted by flywise
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**RUMOR CONTROL**
Trent and Hals engines were **NOT** Edge Performance kits. They were/are both Zipper Kits designed and produced by Hal.
Trent's engine failed due to case fretting and closing of the main bearing clearance.
Hals engine failed at the wrist pin due to running in excess of 120 hp through a first generation STOCK 80 hp crank and rod assembly. The first gen cranks had inferior design bearings at the wrist and rod.
I have over 400 hours on my Zipper with no problems. I know of several with over 1000 hours on them now. This is Rotax engineers throwing the aftermarket under the bus.
Thank you Avr8r3400 for shedding light, my bad as I thought they had the edge performance kit fitted vs the zipper big bore. Also after some research it seems the big bore kit fitted to the accident aircraft is an old/outdated version. Edge performance have changed the shape of their pistons a few years ago..
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Yes, the detailed investigation is very nice. BUT look at all the regulations and now he's in legal trouble for violations. I'm thankful for more freedom - and yes I know there are risks and responsibilities that go with that freedom.
Why not the detailed investigation to help others but without the overregulation....now that would be smart!!
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Here a little video showcasing the Catalina performance. The runway is 3600ft long and the catalina takes about 150ft. At the end of the runway I am at about 1200ft altitude when taking off at the half runway mark (1800 ft distance travelled).....do you think this is too much fun?
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It would be good if the FAA or the Canadian TC did an as good job as the Norwegian civil aviation authority.....
It seems that in the US and Canada if you have an incident (like an engine failure) without any dead people they don't do any meaningful research and don't establish an in depth report for us.....a shame
my 1/2 cent
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Hey Guys,
just came across this very detailed Norvegian (in english) accident report involving a rotax 912 fitted with the edge performance big bore kit. Among other things, It seems clear that the small piston skirt on the big bore kit is problematic and induces a connecting rod failure on the original 912 connecting rods according to the rotax engineers.
Also I remembered Trent palmer having a rod failure...even Hall had a rod failure going to Oshkosh .....all running the edge performance kit.
I have not read anything about this issue and am wondering if I am the only one who did not know about this.
Let me know your thoughts....
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Well so much for almost ready, guess sometimes they never get done, always some new goodies to put on. Hahahaaaaa
first Kitfox with retractable landing gear....wow looks gooood
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I believe this is designed to use electric propulsion hence the small/tight fit cowl.
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How about my engine mount, crazy complex
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On my Catalina I see about 37 Mph stall....which means that at 37 Mph head on steady wind I will land with zero ground speed (cool thing to do), anything above, you're in a bad spot as you will go backwards on touch down. I believe your avid is safe sitting on the ground at any wind velocity below your stall speed. It will produce maximum lift with winds coming head on. When the wind is coming sideways, it will always try to weathervane into the wind.
If you tie it down obviously the wind can be higher and you're still safe.
This is what I think from what I have experienced.....but have been wrong before..
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Hey Willy,
It is quite tricky to set the blade angles the same on both blades on the NRprop....here is why: the reference for setting the blade angles is the top surface of your half-hub using the simple angle tool to measure... and the problem I found is that if your two hub halves are not EXACTLY torqued to be parallel then your blades have quite a big difference in angles (I found up to 1,5deg). Make sure the gap on your hub halves is the same all way round (use a feeler gauge or vernier calliper). Last and not least after everything is torqued down make sure your prop tips are tracking within 1/16 th inch for best result.
Hope that helps, regards, Laurent
Ps you can use an electronic inclinometer to set the blades more precisely ...make sure you measure angles with propeller hub in the same spot/location to prevent different/wrong readings
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Hey Chris,
welcome to the avid 'water bird' club. Your Catalina seems to be a nice build. I have a few items I have questions about....
First I noticed that you have two lower struts on each side of the horizontal stab....originally and per plan there is only one on each side. The Catalina is very long and each ounce is bad when installed in the very back. The Catalina is tail heavy....
I saw there are cover plates between the horizontal and vertical stab, can you tel us how these are installed. I'd like to install some on mine too.
I would like to know your empty weight and empty C of G please.
Do not hesitate to contact me if I can be of any assistance to get you in the air.
Flywise
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One more thought.....happened to me, Check your PTT switch. I had a bad quality PTT switch and that gave me a very LONG troubleshooting to find out that stupid 5$ switch was bad!!!
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Did you check your antennae ground plane ? It should be quite big, roughly 22inch radius (or ~24x24 in square) Last and not least, check you have a good quality coax cable and the connectors are good . Disconnect both ends of coax cable and make sure there is no continuity between the pin in the middle and the metal shielding. Then measure resistance of the center conductor---should be minimal. Then measure good continuity of metal shielding at the connectors/connector housing through to the other connector housing at the other end.
Also make sure your VHF coax cable is not routed close to your transponder cable....
These are just some more easy troubleshooting you can do....
P.s NEVER transmit without antennae connected to radio!!
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I flew the Magnum to a local towered airport a few days ago and when I reported 10 miles out the tower said that my transmission has a lot of static. The radio is a Icom IC-A210 dash mount unit and it has worked great until the last flight. When I went to leave I attempted to call on the ground freq and got another report of a lot of static in my transmission. I had an extra headset so I switched them out and the next headset had no side tone and I got no answer when I attempted to call the tower. I switched the second headset plugs to the co-pilot side of the intercom with no change. I switched back to my headset on the co-pilots side of the intercom and was able to make contact but they still reported a lot of static. I think by now they wanted me gone so they cleared me to depart via 4R to the West.
When I got home I started checking out the radio system. It has a Sigtronics intercom with a dual headset plug mounted way up under the dash and a remote volume and squelch controller on the instrument panel. the radio has a built in intercom which it not being used. There is one set of headphone jacks and a remote PTT button on the panel. When I plugged a set of headphones into the instrument panel jacks you can hear noise/interference in the headphones when you plug in the big plug but you can not hear any radio transmissions or side tones. The PTT works but I didn't try to transmit with it when I was having issues.
I have never played with an in dash radio system. I've always used a handheld system. I do not understand why someone would install a second intercom when the radio has its own and the panel was wired for it. I also hate the location of the remote intercom headphone jacks and would love to change that.
So I'm coming to you guys for advice on where to start. I'm not the best with this stuff but I have a installation guide downloaded and can figure out how to check the pin connections and such. I will post some pictures of the various parts of the system.
From experience, static most times comes from a bad ground. Check the radio grounds/radio rack grounded/headphone jack grounds/antennae ground and intercom system ground. Also try to ground all vhf related systems on one ground spot to prevent ground loops. I don't think your radio is toast.
Hope that gives you an idea where to start....
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Hey Guys,
here a great video of one avid owner who decided to go for many mods on his high camber stol wings.....airfoil shape/fuel tank/ailerons and flaps install/wingtip mod etc....
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Hey Turbo,
I'd like to ad that Dean designed the avids to be fitted with floats...and for a floatplane config (avids on floats/amphibian & Catalina) there is absolutely nothing better than a very high lift wing to get you off the water ..in a short distance ......avid has the water take off distance record...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjDSatUSoCY
On the other extreme...the worst floatplane ever....the cessna caravan on floats (not even amphibs) at 30 seconds still on the water making wind. I have a caravan driver friend who has experience and he said some water take offs can take forever/never happen . The Caravan was not destined to be on floats, the wing is optimized for good cruise and payload...not at all a low stall high lift wing...flaps and turbine don't help. Many fitted with floats have crashed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dDmUI2vEdM
There are so many tiny mountain lakes I can land on no other floatplane can (except the light Avids and similar of course)....
My 2 cents
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I have been through every part of these brakes and the right brake will still not release after some taxi testing. I have figured out a few things.
1. My father had re-welded the upper Master Cylinder attachment point and they are setting at different lengths and angles. I will correct this geometry.
2. I have been hooking the system up and then bleeding from the Calipers up to the firewall mounted reservoir. At some point during the bleeding one side or the other will pressurize and stop taking fluid before fluid reaches the reservoir. I have been bleeding both sides back and forth until fluid fills the reservoir. After the system is filled I adjust the peddle clevises for a firm peddle. Here is where the problem starts. After taxiing the plane the brakes get warm, The fluid expands and the brakes lock up because I have the peddles adjusted to tight to start which does not allow the fluid to return to the reservoir thus compounding the problem as the fluid gets warm and expands.
What's going wrong???? I have always had master cylinders with self contained reservoirs. You hook them up and pump fluid to them until it comes out he top. I believe I may be causing the problem by having the master cylinders hooked to the peddled during initial bleeding. If the peddles are depressing the master cylinder shafts even slightly this could be the reason why the system is pressurizing during bleeding. There is also a possibility that there is a restriction in the lines. I have a friend coming over to help me this week so hopefully we can get this taken care of once and for all.
I hate the seating in the Magnum. They installed aluminum pans and have cushions. What are you guys doing for seating. I see pictures and it looks like lost other planes have nice seats?
Is your remote firewall reservoir vented / plugged vent?? It needs a very small vent and sometimes it gets plugged with old dirty oil?
Just a thought....
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+on Jack's comments, I found the hard surface vs water landing most challenging in the beginning. I nearly ground looped a couple times.....found the best way out if this happens, hit full power (it will straighten the catalina instantly) and go again. From your point of 'nearly ground looping' to flying again is very quick (maybe a second or two).
My 2 cents
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When I was building mine, I was worried about the canopy brace (which you don't have to, it seems- you have gull wings), and moved my rudder pedals forward, which dropped my knees, and made more room for the stick. I'm 6', and 195, and I fit ok, but the passenger side seems to have less room.. and you can darn well forget the back. I fit the floor in the back, and then took it back out- easier to check for water, and after squeezing myself into the back, once, knew that I would NEVER have anyone back there, so no need for a floor.
Water is an issue- the step is pretty shallow, and any water in the cabin area can QUICKLY migrate aft into the tail at a not-so-steep climbout, and do all sorts of nasty things to your weight and balance. I have an automatic/manual bilge pump, and an indicator light that tells me when it's operative. On approach to water landings- it's on automatic, and stays there until takeoff, when it goes to manual (after insuring that it's not currently running- did I mention that I have the floor out in back so I can check for water?). I do a shallow climb with the pump ON, and then switch to auto, checking for water ( light still on) before I try and increase my climb angle (light off).
Why so picky?
I knew Jim, and had land-taxied in his catalina with him. His had modified landing gear, which didn't leave him much clearance between the step and the ground- any little bump, and he'd drag, especially with both of us in the plane- something to check for. He was also fighting water incursions- and from all accounts, tried to yank it off the water, and the water jumped the step.. Recommendation? Do a few high-speed taxis on the water, stop, and check for leaks (you do NOT need that rear floor...). If it seems dry, still be cautious. Before heading out to a lake for landing, I actually mowed a path and rigged a ramp into a stock tanks (acre-sized pond), and drove around in that a bit, and found a significant leak around one axle. I made a packing bearing for the inside axles, and filled the outside gap (?) with 3m 5200 sealant. I still get a bit of a weep, but I can live with it.. especially with that light...
The only concern I had when looking at the pics of the plane on ebay were about the "f1" mods to the engine shroud. While having that one big radiator out on one side of the plane is draggy, if you look at the standard 582 installation, the engine shroud is pretty aerodynamic, which gives you a smoother flow into the propeller, allowing it more of a bite(power) and less noise. If you find that you don't seem to have much power, and have a really coarse setting on your prop, that's where I'd look first. Look at the open area behind the firewall on your plane, and mine. I've even streamlined the push-rods for the flaperons since, just to clean up the air into the prop, and smoothed out some of the extraneous stuff on the forward cowling designed for other engines.
Have fun! But.. don't expect to be in a hurry to get there- it's a pretty draggy airplane.
Jack- Austin, TX
Hey Jack, just to add to your post...
regarding the very valid water-in-fuselage danger before take-off, I included in my pre-take off check a quick way to make sure there is no water (my bilge pump my be on and still not do its job to remove water for many reasons). At once from idle I power up a couple seconds (water rushes rearward) and then chop the power back to low idle, at this point if there is any water in the bottom it will rush forward and I can see it just behind the fwd cockpit floorboard (a quick glance down). This I find easier to do than to turn your body around 180 degrees to look at the rear passenger floor.
As much as I respect Jack's input (I got a lot of questions answered a few years ago, thank you so much Jack) I disagree that the rear seat could not be used by any human being....I often fly with my family, wife in the RH seat and our 11 year old (5feet tall) in the back. even my Wife sat in the back and found it roomier than sitting beside me up front...
For safety, I installed plastic (nylon) screws in the backseat windows so that my son could kick open the rear window (at the lower rear corner) to exit in an emergency. Also the plastic screws vs metal would not damage my prop If one were to get loose...
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Hey Buckchop,
I understand you used Oratex to patch your non-oratex fabric system. What is your original fabric and paint? When you say "light scuffing" you mean just the top coat paint or did you go back to the sun barrier coat?
Thanks for your input
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Thanks! I am going to need a lot of help I am sure. I just got my seaplane rating last September and have no other experience than getting the rating. And it was in a piper Supercruiser on floats, and not a pusher. I did learn to fly in a challenger so I have done all the different things, just not all together. :-) It was sure fun flying off water though!
the builder wasn’t kidding when he said he couldn’t fit. I’m pretty skinny and just about the perfect size for planes like the MKIV. Even though the Catalina has a larger more open interior I have to fight to get full aileron control without my legs getting in the way because they are constrained by the water rudder control on the left and the landing gear control in the middle.
Kind of embarrassed to say I don’t know the w&b. Will say when I find out. It was built very clean no extra crap that would make a lot of added weight that I could see. He said 600 but I will trust the paper more and my own measurements the most.
Hey Chris,
I agree the Catalina is best suited for us underfed people...I weigh 127Lbs and I don't find the cockpit too roomy. The good part is that once in flight you feel a sense of space as you have about 270 deg unobstructed view to the outside.
don't worry about the full aileron control / stick hitting your leg. The aileron inputs needed are deflecting the stick maximum 1/2 in to 1 1/2 inch maximum in flight. The only time I needed near full deflection was on ground/water when taxiing to counter strong crosswinds...
Regarding the empty weight I doubt it's 600Lbs...
I would replace the original heavy wing sponsons for the full lotus ones...saves about 17Lbs !!!!
Looking forward seeing more details of your new bird
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Well, I drove down to look at the Catalina in Independence on Sunday (full day round trip) and ended up getting it. It’s first class workmanship. Now I have to go back down and pick it up. I will have to move the fly off period up here just like I did when I got my Magnum.
I flew up and looked at Jacks amphib last fall (40 minute flight) when he had it listed for 23k. It’s nice too. It even has a sweet cabin heater. At the time it was too rich for my blood. Looks like he’s come down significantly in asking price.
Im super stoked to have a Catalina!
Hey Chris,
welcome to the Catalina owners/flyers....If I can be of any assistance let me know. Even though I have a rotax 912, the Catalina flies more or less the same than a 2 smoke...
I am just curious about 'your' new cat empty weight??? empty aircraft C of g location?
Laurent
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8 hours to go, and only a single bidder?
Here's another option- an amphibian that hasn't been completed- the facebook flying machine marketplace lists:
Text is:
Avid Amphibious aircraft kit
$5,50002747Unfinished kit, No engine, prop , interior or instruments, Lots of work completed. Calls Only for details five 0 eight four nine 6 five 3 nine 4
If this includes all the wing / tailfeather materials, then it's a steal of a deal......I would buy that one if I had not a Catalina already !!!!
There are hardly any unfinished kits for sale anymore...
Avid Catalina take off performance
in Avid Catalina
Posted
I started with a rotax 912 ul 80Hp and now I have upgraded my engine to to the 912 uls specs + special camshaft = 110Hp 912.
I really believe that performance comes with keeping it light. If your 582 catalina is lighter than my 912 catalina (750 Lbs empty) you can surely match my performance. The only thing I believe is hard to to, is increase speed.....I get my 90Mph cruise speed at 5200rpm (~90Hp / 79%) . When I go lower @ 4900rpm (59Hp) it only drops to 83Mph and full bore is about 100Mph max.....to resume, a lot more HP does not give much more speed......but it does get off the ground/water in a hurry and climbs great.
I found there are a few things you can do to make it lighter:
remove the water rudder, replace steel tailwheel spring with fibreglass, install lightweight battery, remove main tire tubes to run tubeless, Install lightweight tailwheel with air in the tire, replace all old mechanical instruments (Alt, Vsi, Vhf, compass, ELT, etc...) with new lightweight solid state electric instruments, install plastic screws to hold rear windows (lighter and safer as the original steel wood screws can come loose and go through prop. Also allows you to break out rear window if upside down in water).
If you're crazy enough ( I am getting there) you can install some titanium screws in some locations, choose lighter nuts (all steel stop nuts vs nylocks) and on and on it does.
Hope that helps