NorthIdahoAvidflyer

Carb cable adusters worn out. I've rebuilt a few Bings and never seen the adjusters worn out the sides.

The last month I've been going over every inch of the Avid I bought and wanted to share what I've found to date. I was told by two different people that this plane would easily be back flying after a week of work. 

History: The plane was built and flew for 58 hours before the engine burned up. The engine was rebuilt and installed back on the plane. Most of the work was done to install the engine. The owner became ill and eventually died. A family friend purchased the plane with plans of learning to fly it but nevery did. The plane sat in his garage for another 6 years. That's where I found it.

So far the engine had been full of little supprise's. There was no fuel left in the plane so I figured the carbs were in good shape....wrong!  Joey recommend I pull the air screw and when I did in found bad orings. I tore the carbs apart for a rebuild and found other issues. The needles were installed on top of the cups in both carbs. Although they looked clean they were pretty dirty inside. As I was working on the carbs I started seeing other things that needed done. Exhaust springs changed, fuel and primer lines needed replaced and rerouted, water hoses replaced, radiator fluid changed, wiring cleaned up, instument panel hardware changed (to brass) and gear box checked. 

I really believed this plane was close to flying. Im sure there are turn key planes out there but this was not one of those. It pays to take the time and make sure everything is right. I will post pictures to this thread of what I have found so far in hopes it helps someone else buying a so called ready to fly airplane.

Vance

After a week away on vacation I started going through the Bing 54 carbs. While talking to Joey he asked if I had checked the air screws positions and checked the condition of the orings. I had not so I pulled the carbs apart and checked them a bit better. Sure enough I found the orings for on the air screws to be distorted and cracked. While looking over the rest of the gaskets and orings they looked servicable but aged. I ordered two rebuild kits from Bear Perkins. They should be here Friday. Picture attached. BTW anyone looking for a rebuild kit for the 54...Bear Perking was cheaper than everyone else. $35 a peice.

Vance

I didn't come from the GA side of aviation. My first few planes were Ultralights like the Quicksilver, Phantom, and J-3 Kitten all of which had side throttles. My Light Sport trainer was a Champ 7AC with a side throttle. My last Avid also had a right mounted throttle. I appreciate all the feed back and trust your input. I will give this set up a shot and see how I like it. 

Vance

Ill take two XL also.

Would that be the same engineers who also designed the block off plate and wrote instructions giving the end user the option of not using their near perfect design? 

I would need to change the lines. What would a guy do about making sure all the air was purged from the system?

I have a local UL flyer who likes his. He has several hundred hours trouble free. Seems to be alot of negative response to them. I personally never heard of anyone having one fail on a Rotax.

Has anyone moved there throttle to the right side? I also am not a fan of the push button lock throttle. 

Is there a drive gear or shaft that gets removed?

Its been recommended by several people that I get rid of the Oil Injector on my 582. After the second rebuilder made this claim I think it might be a worthy recommendation. 

What is the proper way to block off this system? If I'm not going to use I'd like to remove it from the system.....tank, injector and hoses.

Rvsimons

Let me look at some photos and pull a tape on my cowl. I have several photos I will post also.

I will take pictures of mine and post them this evening. 

Yes the Bear site gauge uses a rubber gromments that you drill a hole for and insert it and a 90 degee elbow. This is the same thing I used on the 10 gallon Phantom Ultralight tanks. They do work but I can't get past drilling the hole. Later Phantom came out with a kit that used a threaded  aluminum flange that you glued (pro-seal) and riveted over a hole you drilled through the side of the fiberglass tank. They worked great but I don't believe the Avid has room for this. 

I like the idea of cleaning off the paint but it appears whomever glassed the tanks in added same extra layers over the end. I'll post pictures. 

 Thanks what I had planned to do but didn't know if rebuilds general followed a different break in. Thanks for the reply.

I hope I'm not asking to many questions. My 582 is a zero time rebuild. I now there is a lengthy one hour break in regiment on new engines. What do you guy do for rebuilds?

Rvsimons

Thank you EDMO. That's good info. I also have this crazy vent to mod.

My Mark IV does not have fuel gauges. It has fiberglass tanks in both wings and no provision was made to install anything. No sight glass...nothing. I have sent an email to Belite to see what options they have. I saw a sight glass kit on Bear Perkins PPG site for $17.00 but that would mean drilling two holes in the side of each tank. I'm looking for simple.

I'm wondering what you guys have used. 

Thanks

Rvsimons 

You are correct. After reading the Rotax manual it was confirmed that no steam line is needed for inverted engines. Thank you for the heads up.

I went through some old posts. The Bungee's are totally doable. I just need a better explanation on how to make the wire wrap. My old bungees have a pressed collar.

Great points. Yes I too am on the fence with the oil injection. I have heard opinions on both sides. I have a good friend with a challenger who runs the oil injectors and has for years with no issues. I have to admit with the type of flying in plan to do oil injection would make it easier on trying to mix and add fuel when away from my local airport. Has anyone here actually had a failure?

Joey mentioned to replace the bungee's. What are people using to replace these old bungees and where are they buying the supplies?

Thank you

Vance

Dusty you are correct. There was no filter on the incoming oil injection line. I will order and install one. I will run premix while monitoring oil injection levels. Someone said the steam vent line was not needed on the inverted installation. I will verify and remove it if it's not required. Thank you for the input.

My engine sat for several years. Most of the hoses look good. Anything that had 2 stroke oil in them is ruined. Even the small feeder lines from the injector pump to the intakes are hardened. Those little clips look like something that needs replaced once removed. 

My question is.....what outlets are you guys using for hoses and what type. Are you guys using something other than the standard blue 1/4 line for the oil injector lines? I used car type black fuel injection hose on my Zenith 701 project. It's good quality hose but a bit expensive. I used it in areas where access was limited like the fuel tank inside the wings.

Radiator hoses look good. All the small lines on this engine are SS braided. Seems a bit overkill and a lot of uneeded weight. 

Great idea! Thanks for sharing that. I'd definitely be safety wiring those connections.