Mendlerr

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Posts posted by Mendlerr

  1. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    Hey all, been trying to figure up my Cost Per Hour for my Kitfox IV with a Rotax 582.  I'm curious what kind of cost everyone else is calculating because mine is coming in a little high I feel.  Maybe I'm calculating something wrong.

     

    Unfortunately on my limited budget I can only fly about 4 hours a month right now.  So a flight every other weekend.  Until my situation changes that's only 48 hours a year.

     

    I am calculating my cost per hour right now at $80.10.  The largest cost is my hangar rent, approximately $37.50 per hour at 48 hours a year.  Obviously if I could fly more that cost would drop dramatically.

     

    This does NOT include insurance, I have not been able to find a provider willing to insure my Kitfox with my low SEL Tailwheel time

  2. Posted

    with a gsc prop i could not idle below 3,000?  as soon as i installed a clutch and 45 jets i was idling at 1,400-1,500 and absolutely no effort to start the engine.  I haven't seen too many 582's run smooth without the clutch before 2,500 but that being said I do have relatively limited 2 stroke experience.

  5. Posted

    Wow short takeoff.  I haven't even paid attention to my takeoff roll in my kitfox yet.  Been too worried about the fan quitting.  Now that everything is in good working order should be able to work on my STOL abilities a little bit.

  7. Posted

    Good to know.  I'm thinking about taking on an ultimate STOL plane project when my finances smooth out.  If he has not flown this airplane in years, which the airport owner confirmed for me then he may be willing to sell.  He has 4 other homebuilts he flies on a regular basis.  Might be a good deal for a non-flying model B.  I hear they are very lightweight which is always a plus

  8. Posted

    Hi all, as most of you know I'm a kitfox owner and know little about avids other then they kinda look like my airplane (no idea why :dunno: )

     

    I was walking around the local airport today and there was a shed with a door open so I peeked inside and what did I find?  A nice little, very basic Avid "B" with an inverted 582 and cheek radiators sitting on grove gear.

     

    Looks like she hasnt been flown in a few years and she had a new Warp Drive prop mounted up front and a GSC prop on the ground that had been prop struck bad.

     

    I immediately notived the fuel tank was in the panel.  The brakes were also cable actuated.

     

    What other differences are there in the Model "B" from other Avids/Kitfox's?

  11. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    Hey all of you who are using the ivo ifa ultralight, did you go with the standard pitch or the high pitch blades?

    After a discussion with ivo they told me to purchase the standard pitch blades for my Kitfox.

    I am definitely rethinking that. I have to pitch the blades up about 75% of their travel just for takeoff or else I overspeed.. I cannot flatten the pitch out at all so I really do not have that much adjustability. I am taking off at what should be cruise pitch just to keep my tiny tach under 6,500

  13. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    yes it uses the 582 dual ignition head.  you do not have to change anything electrical, everything 582 works with the 670.

     

    from what I have been "told" if you use Rotax Ricks exhaust then the powerband is smooth, designed for your aircraft respectively and he has a lot of avidfox experience..  If you use a 582 exhaust then the powerband is very smooth but the engine only makes about 66hp, not really any gain over a 582.  If you make your own exhaust you can make power in the 105hp range but the powerband is going to be snappy like a dirtbike or high strung snowmobile and the engine life is greatly reduced.

     

    With his Kitfox/Avid exhaust you can make a minimum of 87hp, 97hp on the new version apparently.  The engine TBO is 450 hours.  Total overhaul cost is $1,175.  Fuel burn is between 4.5-5GPH in Cruise, upwards of 6.5-7GPH on takeoff.  Still better savings then the 582, well my 582 anyway.  My last email conversation he explained the rods and pistons he uses are not run of the mill cast pistons, they are supposedly much nicer, like a high end racing set.

  14. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    Of Course!

     

    The 670 is almost identical to the 582, other then it is 1/4" Taller.  The early model 670's were all predrilled for the Rotax "C" and "E" Gearboxes.  I think Rotax Rick machines his cases out though, he does a lot of custom work to these engines.  They are not your run of the mill 670.  I know he machines out the bearing races and goes to a larger "caged" bearing as found in a more modern engine.  This supposedly improves the reliability over the "standard" 670

  15. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    Just thought I would update this thread with some information I found.

    Rotax Rick now has the Rotax 670 "Blue Head Edition". 97hp for takeoff, 70hp roughly for cruise and 5gph fuel burn. Price is the same or just slightly higher then the original 670

    Trade in your 582 and the 670 is $3,400 with all new parts and an addition $700 or so for the tuned exhaust for the kitfox

  16. Posted

    Good to know. If I can't fly my friends pa-28-180 today then I'm going to drain my tanks. I'll give it a test

  17. Posted

    yup that works very well.  tested the fuel we put into Roy's Mini-Max (check the vid posted on this forum).

     

    the calibrated gauges are nice so you know how bad a particular gas company is bending you over.

  18. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    I will ask Charlie, one of our local CubCrafter owners (we have 3 now, all matching).  He bought a calibrated gauge, he uses it everytime he fills up.  It tells him exactly how much ethanol and water is in the fuel and it only take a couple of minutes.  I doubt it cost much.

     

    Here we go $.6.50 + Shipping

     

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/fb/fueltesters/gasoholTester.php

     

    I was going to take Charlies ethanol tester and take my fuel sampler and transfer the marks over with a sharpie.  Problem solved for me.  The calibration should remain the same considering they are both the same size tester..  I have the ASA sampler tube

  19. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    I've never heard of it here on the east coast.  I finally found 1 airport in NC with MOGAS, W17 (Raleigh East).  You just have to call ahead.

     

    I think I could just barely make it to W17, fill up and head on out to the coast for a fishing trip.  Just to be safe I would stop after I got out of the mountains and get a couple gallons of 100LL.  No need to cut it too close.

     

    From what I can tell all Non-Ethanol Fuel has been phased out it NC.  TN is another story, I find it everywhere in a 90 octane.  I did find a place to order Non-Ethanol 93 Octane in NC but it's an oil supply company and when myself and a buddy Frank went to go test it before we bought it had ethanol and water in it (alot).  Don't trust people who say it is ethanol free.

  20. Posted

    I bet if you wired that valve shut then the hacman kit would work! My understanding Is the valve opens, changing the intake pressure and preventing the hacman from leaning the mixture. Wire the valve shut and I would think the problem is solved.

  21. Posted

    He was doing a negative pushover. Typically not recommended by Rans, haha. I would say we have a very high number of the chaos's here in North Carolina. I have seen 5 or so in the last year. Neat airplanes.

    Why would one wire shut the rave valve? In all my talks with greensky and rotax Rick this has not been mentioned. Wouldn't it negate most of the power increase?

  22. Posted · Edited by RMendler

    For some reason the last video didn't load but you can use the link, it was the best takeoff