skypics

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Everything posted by skypics

  1. skypics added a topic in Technical tasks   

    Strut Cuffs for MK4
    I have flown the model B and now have the MK4 with under camber STOL wing.
    For many hours I had been bugged by the fact that there is severe turbulence just behind the leading wing struts at the wing juncture. If you place yarn tell tails in that area you will see that during climb the yarn is streamlined, but as you level off the yarn will actually turn 180 degrees and face forward.
    I used 6061 T0 to form the cuff and attached it with common bathroom bath tub calking compound for a test, thinking I would switch to something better later. Turns out the calking has held up very well.
    To fill the hollow inside the cuff I used air dry modeling clay. Again thinking temporary. It's still in there. 
    There are a couple videos at You Tube skypics234, but they don't show it as well as I would like.
    Here are some photos. I was using tape to hold them in this shot and later changed to the calk.
     
    No off the shelf cuff available I tried various modifications .


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  2. skypics added a post in a topic Easy Seat Removal   

    I liked the blue and white color of m model B, but this one has a nice marron interior and it would not match the blue and white.
    I do like getting rid of the bungies with the bush gear which is also 10" wider for better ground stability.
    I also like the fact that the MK4 is stress much better. The Vne of the B was 91 mph and the gross was 911 pounds. The MK4 Vne is 135 MPH and the gross is 1150 pounds.
    The wing not only has thicker spars but more false ribs and cruises faster. I like the 66" Whirlwind prop. It is quiet, as reported by ground observers and pulls very well.
    However, I had a wood prop on my B model that performed very well. The thing I like about wooden props is as they are loaded they automatically relieve a bit of pitch and then when in cruise the pitch returns. Hard to believe? Put your protractor on the wood blade and note the degrees. Now pull the blade forward as if it is pulling a load. You will see the pitch change. Another feature of a wood prop is that if you do get a prop strike the prop may break before you tweak the crank or flange.
    In fact when I totaled the model B on a difficult Sierra strip the prop broke and the engine was not affected. 
    All in all a great aircraft and I'm glad that it may come back to life making it easier to get parts and helping hold the value of the Avids.
    John M
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  3. skypics added a topic in Close Call's and dumb stunts   

    It's OK to Go Around
    This has some humor, but good advice.
     
    John M
    YouCanAlwaysGoAround.mp4
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  4. skypics added a post in a topic Broken Flaperon pivot point   

    Unfortunately, the support is broken back too close to the edge of the wing to do an easy fix.
    So you will have to do what I did a couple months ago.
    You will have to remove the fabric from the tip and scarf and new rear part of the rib on the part that is still secure to the rear spar.
    I may still have photos of the repair procedure, but I think I erased them.
    The rib wood is usually birch and is a 1/4" 10 laminate design. You can buy 10 laminate from Spruce, bit the smallest section is 4 x 4 feet and expensive.
    Luckily, I found a local source that actually gave me a 4 x 12" section for free.
    You might find small pieces at a hobby shop.
    John M
     
     
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  5. skypics added a topic in Avid and Kitfox parts Suppliers   

    Hanging Luggage Bag for Avids
    Does anyone remember the name and contact info for the guy who used to make the cargo bag that hangs behind the pilot? I still have mine, but I want to get another to match the color scheme on my MK4.
    John M
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  6. skypics added a post in a topic Jabiru Engines   

    The Yahoo forum is JabCamit engines.
    The early years in my Avid B was with the Rotax 532. Then the 582. And finally the Jabiru 2200.
    The full up Jab weight was the same as the 582 which had two water coolers to keep it cool plus 1 gallon of water.  Also, the Rotax muffler is very heavy whereas the Jab muffler is stainless and lighter.
    Full up weight is 135 pounds.
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  7. skypics added a post in a topic MATCO Brake Lockup   

    Fortunately, it happened before I left for the Idaho backcountry in late June. That would have been a bummer hauling it all the way back to SoCal.
    By the way, some of the stuff you have in the MK4 baggage compartment will come up front to meet you in the cockpit. Thankfully nothing heavy, like a hammer, was in there.
    Make sure that stuff is secure. 
    Also, if you flip upside down make sure you have something soft to drop on when you release your belt and drop on your head.
     
    John M
     
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  8. skypics added a post in a topic Easy Seat Removal   

    Seat Mod Photos... This was on my model B. I have it on my MK4 now.

     

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  9. skypics added a post in a topic Easy Seat Removal   

    Seat Modification photos
    Looks like I found the way to attach photos. Now give me time to find the seat mod photo. They are archived...somewhere.

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  10. skypics added a post in a topic Battery trouble   

    The charger for the EarthX is the Battery Tender Jr and only cost $29.
    John M
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  11. skypics added a topic in Close Call's and dumb stunts   

    MATCO Brake Lockup
    I have over 3,000 hours in Avid tail-draggers.
    Imagine my surprise when landing at my home airport and applying some braking and when I let off the brakes the Avid MK4 swerved to the right, off the runway, and onto the grass.
    I had my foot into the left brake to stop the turn, but that just helped the Avid to nose over breaking a carbon blade on my Whirlwind prop and making the left wing tip hit the ground.
    I ended up nose and wingtip down in the grass and had to have help getting the Avid back down on the tail wheel.
    Damage was: A) broken wooden outboard flaperon hanger. B) bent left axel C) damaged brake rotor attach points
    My brakes are MATCO double puck type.
    The investigation found that one of the pucks on the right side was stuck. The other one could be easily removed, but the stuck one had to be blown out with air pressure.
    That puck was burnished and new O rings were added to the brakes. The puck sliders were cleaned and burnished. It is very critical to keep the sliders cleaned. The newer sliders from MATCO are stainless and don't get the rust that others do.
    We used a long pipe to bend the axel back in place. Avid have much smaller diameter axels that Kitfox and Zenith Aircraft.
    The axel being bent caused the 3 rotor attach points to rub, but the rotors were still serviceable.
    When I took the fabric off the left wing tip to do the repair on the flaperon hangar I found that one of the previous owners had to repair this same area. We just repeated the repair he did.
    I had started to put in a claim to AVEMCO, but canceled it when I realized I could repair it at a reasonable cost. Total repairs cost $2,000. AVEMCO has a $1,000 deductible and I'm sure my premiums would be increased.
    John M
     
     
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  12. skypics added a post in a topic Avid 4 HD gear and BIG wheels   

    I have the cabiner bush gear on my MK4 and it has withstood some punishment on Idaho strips.
    Joey's gear failed when he landed and dropped into a deep rut.
    T.he Grove gear is VERY heavy.
     
    John M
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  13. skypics added a post in a topic Easy Seat Removal   

    AKflyer has mentioned the method.
    Now I will find the photo and post it.
    Oppps! still won't let me attach a photo.
    I click on "insert other media" and it gives a choice of A) insert existing media to which it says "The page you are trying is not available to your account."
    The other option B) is to insert a URL which won't work.
    I'll try to describe it. get two lengths of square aluminum bar stock about 1/2 " each side. Buy 8 1/4" thickness hooks with the threads for nuts you will tighten.
    You will make one for the seat carry through structure and for the structure that the seat hangs from.
    Drill the holes for the hooks. Four for each bar.
    Then with the hooks over the carry throughs, tighten the nuts to the proper distance and then lace the seat to the square aluminum bar. This is the last time you will have to lace the seat.
    A picture is definitely worth a thousand words.
    If you would like a photo, contact me at skypics234 at aol dot com.
    John M
    John M
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  14. skypics added a post in a topic Battery trouble   

    I removed the Odyssey battery and installed an EarthX saving 13 pounds.
    More expensive, but worth it.
    John M
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  15. skypics added a topic in Avid Model IV   

    Easy Seat Removal
    If any of you still find you have to unlace the sling seat like undoing an old-fashioned corset, I can show you a method I use that lets me pull the seat in seconds.
    I changed to this method on my Model B and now on my MK4 and never looked back.
    Trouble is, I don't know how to download a photo on this site.
     
    John M
     
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  16. skypics added a post in a topic Perfoming oil injection delete on Rotax 582?   

    It's been a while since I drove a 582. As I recall you set the injector marks at the 3000 RPM level. Below 3000 RPM the mixture was 70:1 and above it went to 50:1.
    Since I was using NEO 100% synthetic oil I could mix at 100:1 which gave me more power and a cleaner engine.
    The NEO is twice the price, but you only use half as much.
    I changed to a Jabiru 2200 years ago and haven't looked back.
     
    John M
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  17. skypics added a post in a topic Help Rejetting   

    Those EGTs are pretty common. You may see 1200 F on climb, but when pulling back to cruise they should drop to around 1100. The most important temps are the head temps. They more closely show the engine stress.
    If you have the choke hooked up, set up a cruise rpm and slowly pull on the choke. If the engine speeds up you are too lean. If it bogs down you are too rich. If it doesn't change you are just right.
    When I was driving a 582, I continually got 1200 F on climb out from a 355 MSL field. 
    John M
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  18. skypics added a post in a topic Picture of your pedals   

    Here are photos of the brake pedals I have on my Avid MK4.
    Hard to see, but the arm from the pedal to the hydraulic activator goes from the pivot point on the pedal.
    John M
    Opps! Can't seem to load the photos. So what do I need to do to load the photos?
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  19. skypics added a post in a topic desser 27" tundra   

    You should see a little less braking ability. That's what I noticed due to the larger diameter.
    John M
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  20. skypics added a post in a topic Picture of your pedals   

    Yes. Typical poor geometry and poor braking.
    I'll take photos of my pedals next time I'm at the airport.
    The lever to the brake activator comes off the pivot point of the pedal. Much lower and shorter.
     
    John M
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  21. skypics added a post in a topic AVGAS vs MOGAS   

    Only Grandkids would force me to fly to Bakersfield area when living in Idaho. So I understand.
    John M
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  22. skypics added a post in a topic Jabiru Engines   

    I change oil (PHILLIPS 20/50) every 30 hours and filter (FRAM 4967) at each oil change.
    The oil is sent into Blackstone Labs every other changs for analysis.
    I have hydraulic lifters so no adjustments needed.
    Engine was top overhauled at 1195 hours due to #4 exhaust valve seat displacement which causes the piston to hit the valve causing damage.
    The new pistons have an inset in the top of them to prevent this from happening again.
     
    John M
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  23. skypics added a post in a topic Engine out outlanding   

    I have purposely let on of my 14 gallon tanks run dry and did not have an engine stoppage. I have a tube-type header tank where the tanks inputs come together into the header.
    Engine failures can happen so if you are interested in practicing engine out landings let me know.
    I have a group of pilots who practice accuracy dead stick landings on El Mirage dry lake just south of Edwards AFB where the ultimate dead stick landing from space took place.
    We set up cones and markers to measure how close we come to the target cones.
    We start with idle only landings and then progress to shutting off the engine on the downwind.
    After about three tries we find that pilots can land within 100 feet of the desired touch down spot.
    As student pilots, we are trained in engine failures with the engine idling. There is a huge difference with the prop stopped or windmilling as opposed to idling.
    All are invited.
    Let me know if you are interested and I will include you in my notification list.
    I can also give a WINGS presentation to your EAA Chapter titled MIDAIRS AND DEAD STICKS. It is a sancioned WINGS course for 1 credit.
     
    John M
     
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  24. skypics added a post in a topic Is this worth 5K?   

    If you decide to install a Jabiru engine you will have to extend the cowling forward a bit. Not a big deal.
    If you decide on a Rotax 912 the cowl will be packed with everything that has to go with that engine, i.e., water hoses, Oil sump, water radiator, etc.
    John M
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  25. skypics added a topic in 4-strokes   

    Jabiru Engines
    If anyone is considering installing the Jabiru engine on an Avid Flyer you can ask me any questions you may have.
    I have over 2000 hours behind one.
    John M
     
    • 9 replies
    • 1,644 views