John_L_Seagull

I've used Soda blasting quite a bit over the years

Soda blasting can be done dry or wet

It is the best "None abrasive" way of blasting anything,

to remove paint, corrosion, biological contaminants, oil, grease, carbon, and many other coatings

Soda Blasting uses compressed air to propel the media onto the area to be cleaned.

When the media comes in contact with the contaminant on the substrate,

the sodium bicarbonate particles explode.

The resulting release of energy disrupts the contaminate surface leaving the substrate completely unaffected

Other processes,

such as sand blasting,

damage the underlying surfaces.

They tend to cause “oil-canning†which is a destructive warping or bending of the metal substrates

it also cause heat/friction which warps metal and steel

Soda blasting usually includes having to use vinegar and water to clean up the extra soda bicarbonate up

it chemically reacts with the soda

Then the part or parts need to be heated up,to evaporate the water so no rust will form on the cleaned up parts

I've soda blasted steel and aluminum,rubber,grease etc.

it will clean up grease,make old rubber moldings look new

It will free up seized rusted parts,bushings etc.

If used accordingly it is an impressive medium for blasting

Used in Corvette shops for blasting

it can blast of each layer of paint and or primer....one layer at a time

It is used to remove spray paint graffiti

it can remove spray paint from Vinyl siding on a house without damaging the vinyl siding

IMHO

It is the least destructive way of blasting anything,

and is very versatile in that it can blast steel,aluminum,glass,rubber and grease

It is however,very expensive to use

My last project used about 100 dollars and hour worth of Soda

and I spent almost 5 thousand dollars on just the soda itself

May sound expensive,

but on a car worth almost a hundred grand when finished... it is a small price to pay

and saves so much work compared to using sand or any other way of cleaning parts for paint

even sandblasting causes major work getting things ready for paint after blasting

My last project was a 1961 Thunderbird ,retractable rag-top

The ragtop assembly was totally seized with rust(numerous bushings etc.)

soda blasting freed up the parts like brand new(the top now folds and opens perfectly and is ready for paint)

The front end was dropped out and soda blasted,grease and all

the front end components were perfectly clean and paint and "Grease" free

ready for primer and paint,other than replacing a few parts of coarse on the front end

The whole frame and body was separated,61 TBird is uni-body

frame and body was soda blasted

I've blasted with all kinds of sand,glass beads,crushed walnut shells(excellent on aluminum)

and soda blasting can replace all medium mentioned above

Other than it's cost for the actual Soda to blast with

it is by far the best blasting material out there

Soda blasting is definitely worth looking into

I plan on re-skinning an Avid Mark IV this coming winter,

and I will be soda blasting the entire frame and wings for paint before reskinning

It will get into ever nook and cranny there is,

and the vinegar will clean it out from ever nook and cranny

once the vinegar does not chemically react with the soda no longer it is ready to wash thoroughly and dry with heat

Then it's basically ready for etching and primer

I'm speaking from over 30 years of restoring experience, using ever blasting medium known

but of coarse... this is all just IMHO

ps:

Thought it might be worth mentioning...

Dry Ice blasting is suppose to be even better than Soda blasting

But I have no experience using dry ice to blast with so never mentioned it

I really do not care "if I am a part of whatever crowd you deem to be the in crowd"

I also do not need to hear that only two people in the world are the only ones who can figure out geometry configurations ,that was a rude remark that does not need interpretation

I never said anything about your "leverage method : whether right or wrong

I never said anything about you or your leverage at all

so why you posted what you did is beyond me

I guess I'll just go back to reading

and won't bother trying to participate in anything on this forum

if this is the way people react

Edit:

BTW

I was the only one who actual posted what the topic of his thread asked for

I was on topic...

but since you had to quote me,

like I was spreading crap about you,your leverage system and your friends

this has gotten way off topic

I quote my first post in this thread

Timken Bearing # LM 11900LA

Timken Bearing Race # LM 11910 + USA

Brake Linings 5/6" Brake #M66-106

You can dissect any post since

I spread no interruption of anything

You can dissect my posts

nowhere did I mention you,or your leverage system

About the only thing,not on Matco's installation manual

would be the 1/8 line to 1/4 line

If a guy can not even express an opinion on this forum

without being attacked over it

Being told only two people can figure something out

and that"They are not in that crowd"

well,I guess maybe this forum is not for me

I had never seen an ad that states "hydroplaning brakes", just that it lightens the weight, or cools them. Figured the centripital force would keep the water off of the disks.

Interesting theory - Thanks John

ED in MO

On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

When first disc's were drilled

they in fact were drilled to dissipate heat

but check out the motorcycle industry these days

The drilled rotors do dissipate heat,

but are really more there for improved braking in wet condition now a days

or with drilled and slotted rotors although they could be drilled or slotted or both

the slots being for water,and drilled holes for water and heat

Floating rotors:

They have drilled disc rotors for bikes

that "bolt" onto a Billet Aluminum hub... then the hub bolts to the wheel

Now the rotor heats up,but heat dissipates extremely quick through the Billet aluminum hub

as everyone knows... aluminum dissipates heat quicker than steel

They actually do not hard bolt the rotors to the billet hub

They have special inserts,between the rotor and the hub and the bolts go through the inserts

which bolts the hub to the rotor without actually connecting it directly to the hub

so yes drilled rotors were invented to dissipate heat,

but just turned out also to be beneficial in wet conditions

In the motorcycle industry

drilled rotors are mainly for wet riding conditions

and if serious high performance braking is required

then floating rotors are what is used

especially on Big Inch engines where braking could be extreme

I know ,I know

I said I was going to leave the discussion lol

just wanted to reply to Ed

I should point out that I designed and built the toe brakes that Joey is running on his plane.

Actually I realize that, as I read it above posted

and if you want to lay into them they will wrap a 600 psi pressure guage.After his first landing gear and brake conversion, his comment to me was these things are super strong and I'm going to have to watch it and he has said somewhere on this site that he could literally stand his plane on its nose.This performance was achieved with 21 inch tires w-62 internal calipers and 1/8 inch brake line.

If geometry is right,calipers/rotors and brake lining pads are in good shape

sure 1/8 inch line is suffice

1/4 inch line though,does in fact increase the pressure,

and I have this information from a very good source also

The key is,geometry in the tow brake assemble and master cylinder

Matco would agree totally with what I am saying

I've only ever ran accross 2 people who could properly determine the leverage on an avid flyer toe braking system.

Not sure how a statement like that should be interpenetrated.

is that an insult ?

One was George Happ and the other one was an individual who talked to George back in around 2002.

Is there honestly only two rocket scientists on Earth...

one named George and the other a man who talked to George... that could ever be able to do this ?

Come on, lol

I think someone should maybe get a Saw and cut out there doors to there house...

so they can get there swelled head through the door

Here is the link to Joey's original conversion from go cart to matco brakes.

Ya,I know

I read the entire thread awhile ago

Looks like I touched a nerve

Anyway I do not need to prove anything

so I will let you all carry on your conversation without me

Cheers

IMO, Drilling rotors only lightens them - dont see why it would increase braking power - might even wear pads faster - but should run cooler for long braking runs

Drilled disc rotors,are in fact drilled for rain

so the brake linings do not hydroplane over the rotors which would cause total loss of braking

Floating rotor's, are specifically made to dissipate heat

get rid of the 1/8 " line

exchange it for 1/4" line

it works much much better for pressure and that alone will increase the pressure

most Matco brake issues are do to the master cylinder not getting correct 2.5 to 1 ratio when depressing toe brakes

or actuating the brake assemble of the master/toe brake combo

Tow brakes have a complicated geometry,

and if not done right can seriously hamper the efficiency of the brakeing

If you were to take the line off the caliper

and hook a pressure gauge up in that spot you could gauge the amount of pressure when applying the brake

from there you could adjust the master cylinder toe brake set up to give more pressure

There is probably very few out there who can produce above 450 psi pressure

which is the minimum that is needed for the brakes to work optimum

At least as far as the Matco installation pamphlet I got from Matco states

450 psi is just enough pressure and is at the bottom of the scale of what is acceptable pressure

no lower than 450 psi and up to 600 psi

over 600 psi and you actually get caliper/brake pad problems such as,

caliper deflections that will reduce the torque increase

Also,making sure both brake lining pads move in and out correctly and freely/smoothly

if the one pad that rides(compared to the pad that the piston moves as it is a one piston caliper)

if the ride pad gets sticky,then right there your braking is decreased by 50%

the calipers(and pads/linings) need to be able to float,if there sticky and gunge up they loose efficiency

these few problems when addressed, can make a dramatic difference in your braking

wonderful country to fly over,and really nice airstrips

excellent photo's, thanks ever so much for sharing them

Timken Bearing # LM 11900LA

Timken Bearing Race # LM 11910 + USA

Brake Linings 5/6" Brake #M66-106

Does anyone know the part numbers for the Timken tapered bearings on the Douglas wheels? I'm also looking for the Matco part number for the pads that were used with the original Kitfox brakes.

couple things I failed to mention

I use something to brace the rudder from moving back and forth

as it will rub on the folded flaperons when swinging back and forth in the wind

I use two pieces of lathe,covered in soft cloth that I made

one on each side of rudder,then zip strapped together on each end and in the middle

to prevent the rudder from moving

I also have a small wooden dowl I made,with two holes drilled in it on each end

I use it in the cockpit to brace the ends of the flaperons when folded

The wooden dowel fits right into the slots where the flaperon control rods connect

I use some quick locking pins to secure it

This helps in making the flaperons ,so they do not wiggle back and forth/rock back and forth(side to side)

At the back of the plane,I use a very small light weight bungee chord to tie together the ends of the flaperons

This also helps them from twisting around back and forth and rubbing against the rudder

It also helps,with tightening up the wings when folded

otherwise they rattle a bit from being loose

These are just a couple of other things I do, when trailering my plane

Yes,I was at full lotus floats a couple of weeks ago

bought a couple spare bladders and they told me they had sold the company

I lived less than an hour away from where there company was

They would not tell me who they sold to

as it was part of there contract in selling the company

not to leak at that time the new company that purchased Full lotus floats for whatever reason

Really nice to see the new company up and running finally

Cheers

My insurance from Marsh Canada,is $400 a year Canadian

No hull coverage,just liability

3 million for passengers and third party liability

(in case I have to do forced approach onto top of car on highway,or on top of someones house)

Plane/floats/ski's/and trailer are only worth 10 to 15 grand

so I feel it's replaceable easy enough without having to have hull coverage

Insurance is one of the biggest rip-off's there is IMHO

House/fire/auto/plane/medical....

largest expense today for some is all the insurance premiums they have to pay

I only insure,what I feel I can not afford to replace on my own

I must say nice to know you get your wife under the plane and start at the backside

I think you started telling me about bungees then moved on to soft porn (She is just a little thing at 5' 2" and 110 lbs soaking wet)

I just changed my Shock Chords last weekend

on my Avid MKIV HH early 600 serial numbered, 582 injected/inverted rotax

There 90" in length with the loops already made and 3/8" in diameter for my Bird

I make mine from scratch length ordered from Aircraft Spruce

order more length than needed so you can make the loops

it's cheap to buy, shock chord

I use Aviation wire and a clamptight tool to tie my loops together

makes the loops very slim loops, and easy to feed through

There are various ways to make loops and crimp them

I prefer using wire,it works and is easy to do and is cheap

7 wraps on the bottom,and 6 wraps on the top

My used wore out Shock Chords are roughly /usually 94" in length by the time I change them

there rock yard and stretch easy compared to the new Chords

I get my wife under the plane,

I start on the backside going down around and then up get her to feed it up and through each time

I pull it up with all my might and stretch it over towards the back and pinch the shock chord down on the tube of steel it wraps,

with my other hand and then I feed it down and through again

wife then feeds it back up and through for me, and I wrap another wrap

She is just a little thing at 5' 2" and 110 lbs soaking wet

I'm pretty big though and I can stretch them chords pretty good by hand and can hold them

may not be for everybody

kitfoxes,

have that special slot there where they wrap through

you can use a hammer handle to pinch the chords to hold them while wrapping

still take another person,but can be done do to the different design than the Avid

There is a Vid on youtube of a couple guys doing it that way

There is no need to buy these tools to do shock chords that are advertised for sale IMHO

It can be done by hand without too much trouble

Cheers

Hilarious shot of the catcher

Be sure to lift and block up the tail of the plane,

you should try and get the plane level if possible.

So as to not have an angle of attack happening while towing

the more level the better although this is also for swinging the wings out when going flying

The more level the planes fusealge is when floding the wings out,the easier it is

Where if the plane is down on it's tailwheel the wings are somewhat hard to swing up into position to lock

Not really sure if it truly makes that much differance just towing them,

I have towed them level and even on the tailwheel in three point postion lol

and they seem to tow the same either way

have to admit though,the more level the wings are folded you would think the easier they would two through the air at 50 60 mph

Don't tow "on the tail-wheel" though, it could break your tail-wheel flat springs(or the bolt)

from it bouncing up and down on the tail-spring while traveling.(Especially on rough roads)

I think I know the ferry crossing and road your going to be on,

I've been up to and around High level AB/Yellowknife NWT many times

There are the tow bar pin holes that can be used to brace the tail,they work very good with some home kind of rigging

home made sawhorse with bracket for pins works good and not too hard to build or come up with jury rigging it

Square wooden boxes screwed together and screwed to the trailer deck etc.

Imagination rules when tieing down a load

Tie the prop somehow,to prevent it from turning in the wind

I have a homemade leather rope I use,with a loop on one end that just slides over one blade of the prop

tie it to front of trailer and the prop will start to spin,get tight and stay there in that position for rest of trip

The leather strap/rope is thin and does not mare the prop blade at all

If overnight somewhere,take the strap off to prevent moisture from trapping under the strap

especially important with wood props

use tape and rags to fill holes and gaps to keep road grime out

I don't like tarping,as the tarps tend to whip in the wind and can cause severe damage

I use quality ratchet straps for tieing down ,

don't use the cheap pull tight straps

Mine are trucker grade,large 4 inch wide belting with ratchets and square folded metal ends(rather than the claw style)

they work good for hooking up onto trailer angle iron,channel iron supports etc.

I use one at the front to belt down the front wheels,

and one at the rear to belt down the tail.

I tow my plane all the time,with wheels or with my 1450 Lotus floats on it

I keep it at home and tow it every time a fly,I tow it to the local boat launch and away I go

or sometimes to other locations where fuel is an issue flying there and back

gives me more flying time there, towing it there and then going flying

there multitudes of different grass and gravel strips around where I live

Watch out for big trucks throwing rocks at you,they can puncture the skin/damage it

chip a prop blade,bust your windscreen etc.

I've towed up to 100 km/hr with no problems,although I tend to stick around 80/90 km/hr usually

You can these planes frontwards or backwards for towing,

I load mine frontwards as I use a 20' car hauler for towing my plane

so I have a lot of wheelbase room for the wheels

Most planes being towed backwards are on modified boat trailers

and there is not enough room between the trailer wheels to get the planes wheels width through

so they have brackets welded at the back of trailer for the planes tires to fit on

more for short haulers those trailers IMO

I know someone,just bought and towed a Kitfox home from California to Okanagan B.C. Canada

on a 18' flat-deck car hauler and although extremely dirty when he got here the plane made out ok with no issues

These planes tow nice,

be sure to get it on straight and square

maybe a bit to passenger side if anything...

to keep it from hanging over drivers side of trailer

allowing more room to pass on coming traffic

There under 8' 6'' wide folded so they fit the trailer nice width wise

With wheels on,and on my 20' trailer

and an 18' would be the same

I still have a lot of room to put my floats on the trailer under the plane and lash whatever else onto the trailer I would need

Google Kitfox trailering,wing folding etc. with web and image/video search engines

it will bring a lot of images and video's up of people towing there favorite planes

giving you an idea of all the different ways there is to block up your Baby to tow her home

Cheers and good luck

Edit,

thought you had an 18' trailer

no problem your 16' trailer will do the job!

I have insurance with Marsh

there a reasonable rate,no hassle aviation insurance agency

There Low time pilot friendly

you can apply online,

and have insurance papers sent immediately by email

print them out and go flying

They then send official papers by snailmail to you

They have also been in the industry for years

EAA and AOPA members etc. can get discounts on insurance

For USA

http://usa.marsh.com/ProductsServices/MarshSolutions/ID/441/General-Aviation.aspx

For Canada

http://www.marsh.ca/_bin/insuranceProducts/Associations/copa/overview.cfm

Really nice pics

awesome scenery

BTW,I really like your float mounting system

Cheers

I used Kreem,years ago in a motorcycle tank

what a mess after it started to deteriorate

I would never use it again in a motorcycle tank,nor in any other fuel tank

and that is from personal experience with the product

Yuk

Yes,I get that crap all the time in my fiberglass tanks on my MKIV

I clean the finger screens regularly

flying without finger screens seems ridiculous

I can't believe they would even send kits out without finger screens

cleaning them is a part of regular maintenance IMHO

without finger screens,you would think anyone without them would definitely be using a filter just to add fuel to there aircraft

just to keep any crap/bugs whatever, out of the system

That ... is the main reason to have finger screens installed

it is to keep bugs,and debris from your Gas out of the system more than removing shellac/residual from the fuel/fiberglass system of fuel tanks

excellent post,it brings something up that should be of major concern to anyone not having or using finger screens

Cheers

If a steel alloy bolt is in shear, then you use 60% of tensile strength as your shear strength

http://www.mechanics...hToughness.html

Tensile Strength

http://www.mechanics...leStrength.html

Hydrogen Embrittlement

http://www.mechanics...rittlement.html

An interesting example of hydrogen embrittlement is the fatal accident of a Bell 206 helicopter in British Columbia in June of 2000. The screws in the fuel control unit broke due to hydrogen embrittlement. The repair facility replaced the screws during overhaul with standard AN503 screws. Ordinarily hydrogen embrittlement is not a problem with these screws because the rated tensile strength is 125,000 psi, well under the 145,000 psi where hydrogen embrittlement becomes a problem.

However, the screws tested much stronger than they should have been due to improper heat treatment. The cadmium plating applied to the screws then introduced hydrogen into the steel. If the screws had been manufactured to the proper tensile stress, they would not have failed and the fatal accident would not have occured. This accident was caused by screws that were stronger than they should have been. In fact, the entire lot of screws were non-conforming.

ref. Transportation Safety Board of Canada, Aviation Investigative Report, AW00W0105

http://www.mechanics...rittlement.html

Another interesting example of hydrogen embrittlement failure is when Lycoming changed their crankshaft gear retaining bolt to zinc plating from cadmium plating. This one bolt in the engine is a "Jesus" bolt, in that if it breaks, the engine quits. Unknown to Lycoming at the time, zinc coatings on high strength bolts with a hardness exceeding RC 39 have a history of hydrogen embrittlement failure. Soon afterward random bolt failures started to occur - a typical trade-mark of hydrogen embrittlement failure. Lycoming didn't heed the basic rule of aircraft design: "no single failure shall have a catastrophic effect."

General bolt and nut strength

http://www.mechanics...utStrength.html

Aircraft versus Industrial hardware

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/AircraftHardware.html

Last but not least...

A link.... to a whole lotta a other links

http://www.mechanics...m/Articles.html

Edit to fix broken link

Aviation fuel 100LL is 100 octane but the low lead part is a bit misleading

It does have less lead than aviation fuel once had years ago,

but it still has much more lead than any automotive fuel does

Lead is hard on our type of engines because it will foul plugs and cause rings/valves to stick/seize,

if used on a regular basis

It creates more carbon deposits do to the higher lead content

A few gallons of aviation fuel once in a while though,

is ok and if you get your next fill with Automotive fuel it will thin the 100LL down

If needed,

I try to fill the top half of the tank with 100LL so only to get a half a tank of it mixed in with what I normally run

If a full tank of 100LL is required I then try to get my next tank to be Auto-fuel

If 100LL is all you can get for awhile for whatever reason

I would then recommend using an additive

Decalin is a good product for experimental IMHO

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/Decalin.php

Or you can try the real Mcoy, FAA Approved stuff

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/alcortcp.php

Yup metric smeckret

I started school on standard and finished on metric lol

sure glad we still use standard barometric pressure in Aviation up here at least

rather than the kilo-pascals like on the news lol

yes sir,

59 degrees Fahrenheit(15 Degrees Celsius) @ barometric pressure 29.92 @ sea level

A perfect day

The first formula was a standard formula,

looking now I see I forgot to add that it was in MPH and oz/sqft

Here it is again>

stall speed = 3.7 * square root of wing loading

speed in mph

wing loading in oz/sqft

that may help eh!

Oh,BTW

That other formula

Just use "lb/ft^3" for density altitude rather than KG/m^3

the rest of the formula is relatively easy to convert to standard

Just do each other calculation in standard,

and use the above standard (lb/ft^3) calculation for Air Density ;0)

only drug dealers and foreigners use Kg.

I guess I would fall under the later category then of being a foreigner, as I'm from Canada

we gave up the standard system ... oh,roughly 30 some years ago

I'll see if I can translate it for you

Yes clean,in level flight

The formula to calculate stall speed is:

V = √( 2 W g / Ï S Clmax )

V = Stall speed m/s

Ï = air density KG/m^3

S = wing area m^2

Clmax = Coefficient of lift at stall

W = weight KG

The formula accounts for altitude being input,of the appropriate air density figure

The term stall speed is misleading though,

because speed really has very little to do with when a wing will stall

Stall's occur because of angle of attack

Stall speed, as calculated with the above formula only works for straight and level flight

The wing will stall at a much higher speed, if the plane is maneuvering such as a steep turn as this will cause G-loading which in way increases the planes weight

If you know the G-loading,

then you can factor that into the stall speed formula with increasing the gravitational G constant

either way,it can be calculated

Stall speed can be calculated

stall speed = 3.7 * square root of wing loading

This would be for straight and level flight in cruise of coarse,

steep turns would increase the stall factor