EDMO

I forgot what engine you are using. I have a spare for a 2 cycle rotax.

Stratus was supplying the AC ones, but I understand you can get them cheap at junkyards and have the fittings put on at a rad shop.

My 81 came with a VW Rabbit rad, hung from the firewall at back end of cowl. Owner said it worked fine.

You can get better ones from a few racing radiator shops, but are not cheap.

Ed in MO

Kitfox published an article on this repair. I will have to see what the site is. Believe it involved slitting fabric on each side back a ways, and splicing new wood hangers in and then a tape job on fabric. There was also an article about reinforcing the hangers with aluminum angles because Britain or the UK said it was not strong enough for certified aircraft standards. I have 1/16" aluminum glued with 9460 and riveted to mine from spar to tip of rib with 1/4 inch rivets. Probably overbuild, but I have 14" Flaps and Ailerons.

Will get back on this in a day or so if no one else posts it.

Try <www.sportflight.com> or the Kitfox Builder.

Ed in MO

AMEN TO THIS! Made me want to stand up and salute with tears in my eyes.

Old Flyer - Ed in MO

Just keep it in your safety list. We have all had our day in the spotlight, whether others knew it or not. I never really took my instructor seriously about entering downwind at mid-point until I came prop to prop with a plane departing the pattern after takeoff. I was too shaken to tell anyone and sure didn't report the near-near-near miss, but I remember it 50 years later! I won't bore you with lots of "others".

Just tell yourself, "Now I'm a safer pilot", and keep flying.

Ed in MO

I need to attach a extension to the rudder pedal because I can not tip my brake pedal forward far enough. I don't have the extended firewall with my 503 so I lose about 3" of leg room, which brings my feet closer to the seat. When that happens just the toes of my boots are resting on the rudder peddals and the brakes. I might try to grind part of the toe bracket off so I can tip the peddals forward more.

One suggestion that I have would be to put an extention on the vertical post, and you could angle it forward a bit, and move your lower MC attatch point up or mount it on side of post.

One thing that you will have to compensate for is the alignment with the rudder cables with the first guide. I am not familiar with the Avid setup there, but a Kitfox owner frayed his cable when it wore thru the plastic tube on the front guide. Kitfoxes have pedals shaped like horseshoes turned sideways, but the lower part is sometimes too low also.

Ed in MO

I sent it in August 2011. Look at the bottom of page 89 for instructions. Russ.

Russ, Just wanted to add my Congrats. I just posted a note about learning the Stewart sysltem. I think it is the best thing since Ray Stits got dacron approved to replace cotton.

GOOD FLYING

Ed in MO

Ed glad you like the site!! If we could only convince all the knowledgeable guys on the Yahoo list to come over and give it a whirl!

YES - Knowledge is what we all want. People with money don't have to ask for it - they just buy it or rent it!

I feel like I have done well to design mine using Dean's basic airframe and wings, but am at the point where I could sure use some engineering help on the nosegear design. I have nightmares of it collapsing and the nose digging a hole in the runway which I will have to fix!

I know that it is much easier to build from a kit, but I am just stubborn enough to build what I want, and not someone else's plane, even tho I can only lay claim to about half of my design. But then, everyone, even the Giants in aircraft manufacturing, has "borrowed" from an earlier designer in some way.

This has been a 16 year struggle, but so many other things have interfered. Finally, I am trying to get it finished before I get unable (you never get "too old") to fly.

Ed in MO

For anyone interested, I measured my Homemade Lexan TD for Doug. I will have to compare his measurements to mine.

At the front: 32 3/4 inches wide inside the turn-down.

At the Rear: 26 1/2 inches " " " "

Length: 30 3/4

Turned down sides: 4 3/4 going back 17 1/4 and tapering from there to 3/4 at the rear.

.090 thickness

Ed in MO

Ed,

I'm in the same situation just North of Chicago. I decided to ferry no-Ethanol gas from Wisconsin by car and use relatively close airports with Mogas if going by air. You might find a similar solution would work for you in MO. Here a couple of helpful links to help you find your gold:

Airnav's local fuel finder

Pure-Gas.org MO gas stations

-- Paul S

Paul, That Pure-Gas site looked like a Goldmine to me! Many Thanks for the info. Those towns are on my flight list.

I thot pure gas had gone the way of the dinosauers.

Great info - now I can relax until our Govmt acts again. I started designing and building this "Foxy Flapper" airplane years ago in Alaska, and was not worried about alcohol in my gas there.

Ed in MO

Someone probably has gone here before - yes, I have read about the plastic tanks. Want to hear about my bank account & bills? (Didn't think so!)

The stories I have heard about fiberglas tanks and ethenol have me worried.

Years ago, a friend in Alaska landed his Kitfox in a tree. He said that the good thing about glas tanks was that they disintergrate on contact with a tree, and the gas dispersed quickly in a cloud of vapor, and no fire!

I have FOUR - 12 gal fiberglas tanks that are installed and were built by Ron's Fiberglas when he was the supplier for Kitfox. That was before our Govment in its wisdom starting putting 10% moonshine alcohol in our Mogas.

If they can put it in, then IMO, some chemical engineer can figure out how to get it out: anyone know one?

Thought about pissing in a can of it, but Budweiser has 5% alcohol in it, so would only cut it in half.

Is there a way to get TCP now, so I could run 100LL? They banned shipments of it once.

Many-Many years ago, Shell was starting to advertise TCP in their gas. Also, to "Put a Tiger in your Tank". I was at a gas station in Arkansas, and asked the boy working there if he knew what TCP stood for. He shook his head, spit some tobacco juice on the ground, and said, "Best I can guess, it must be TOM-CAT PISS!

Ed in MO

Ed -

I put pics and measurements of my Avid+ turtledeck a bit earlier in this thread. Can you compare these to the smoked Lexan turtledeck you have please, would be interested if it fits. Thanks.

-Doug

Doug,

Go back to my alzheimers statement: Mine is clear, not smoked!

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I will look at your measurements anyway, and they may be helpful and comparable.

I will post the comparisons.

Thanks, Ed in MO

I just want to express my Thanks to AKFlyer, or whomever started this site.

It is easy to use, even for an old enept puter pilot like me.

Many Thanks to all those contributing.

No question is ever "dumb", and no answer should be.

Sincerely, Ed in MO

When I was in college , many years ago in Colorado, we had both black and brown bears in the area. They said the only way to tell the difference waas to climb atree, if it follwed you up it was a brown bear, if it knocked it down it was a Black.

The only time I had any trouble we had taken our jeeps up through the Devils Punchbowl on schoffield pass between Crested Butte and Marble Colorado( this is where they got the tomb of the unknown soldier beautiful white marble with veins of gold throughout), It was pretty normal to find vehicles that had gone over the side and their was really no way to recover them so they left them at the bottom of the cliff. Me and a friend decided that there were a couple that were worth salvaging some choice items from and let out our winch cables anchored our lines to our jeps and rapelled down. Got a real nice transmission and transfer case as well as a good Warn Bellview winch. As we climbed out the radio in my jeep quit working, I thought it had run the battery down and didn't think much of it until we reached the top, the bear had ignored the cooler and gone straight for eating my brand new all weather speakers. I guess he wasn't a fan of Hank jr.

Yeh, Shame on him not liking Hank Jr. I grew up listening to Hank Sr. More trouble than bears, were the dang Moose: They would walk under a wing and raise their antlers, and there would be holes in a fabric or dents in aluminum, or try to walk across tail and fuselage in deep snos.

Life is fun around Animals. And repair bills are high!

I had a coon get into my cockpit once - tore hell out of new upholstery - guess it was going for the crumbs I had dropped and not cleaned out.

ED in MO (Alaska before retiring)

I don't want to sound like a "know-it-all", but just want to spread the word about what I think is a great improvement in the glue, dope,

process for fabric, metal and fiberglas.

Since I have done other processes, and recently completed reviewing the video and helping recover a J3 with the Stewart System,

IMO, this is the neatest, easiest, safest, and best looking refab and paint job that I have ever seen.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that anyone interested should call Stewart and tell them that you are considering using their system,

and ask for the six-part video of the process.

I think it will impress you, and when you get old you can thank them for possibly extending your life because it is not toxic like the other systems. You won't have wet glue all over your hands either.

Kitplanes just did an article on the system, but it is not nearly as impressive as the video,

and you can watch the video when you get old like me and forget what you saw last week!

Ed in MO (A&P-AMT)

Ed- I believe you can see pics of the whole setup in the Avid+ Forum > Flight Controls thread. If not I can take and post some more... still trying to measure the turtle deck. My Mom passed last week so I've been busy with other priorities.

Sorry for your loss. Thanks for the info. Will be checking on it when I can.

Now, it seems as tho I remember the cables on the Airdale. But, getting old, so have to compensate at times!

Ed in MO

NONE! IMO, the Stewart water-based poly system is a whole lot safer to use. Just finished a J3 refabrick and the paint looks great! If you have concerns about spraying Stewart over your brushed, then call Stewart and talk to them. I was told it was OK, although we used the complete S-system.

Ed in MO

This is the setup on my Avid+.

OK, Thanks. I can see now that they are push - pull enclosed cables. Not like the flimsy Cessna cables that go around corners and across pulleys, etc. Better opinion now that I have seen photos. Guess I just wasn't tuned in to them on the Airdale. Do you have photos that show arrangement from stick column back?

Ed in MO

Im planning to convert the flaperon control system on my Avid B over to the airdale cable design. Iv'e got the mixer controls figured out for under the left seat now im just looking for the specifics on what cables i need. I should be able to have some made localy at Boise riging supply but im looking for how long,what diameter, material, what type of ends, push/pull rating, any other pertinant information im forgetting . also if any one has some good pics of where the washers are welded to the airframe for the cable to route through.

Thanks Robert

When did Airdale start using cables? I watched #1 being built, and didn't know about them.

Why would cables be better or safer than tubes?

I nearly died when a Cessna flap cable broke on final just over the threshold in Alaska - some Great Spirit took hold of the plane and rotated it from a near 90 degree bank (seemed like it) and turned it back flat as I firewalled the rudder and ailerons while grabbing for the flap handle, throttle and carb heat! NEVER want to be in that situation again!!!

Do what you want - I will stay with push-pull tubes.

Ed in MO

How about some pictures

I'd like to see the electric trim

got any control sticks?

Which Trim? The one is for the stabilizer as used on the KF5 and later. This is not the brand which broke and caused a wreck. This one is new, never used.

The electric Elevator trim is for a trim tab, and it has been used.

I'm old and puter inept. Got doctors appointments tomorrow - will try to get photos and have wife or daughter put them on here next week.

Maybe someone with KF manuals can post pictures?

May have a control stick or two, and have a control tube which sticks attach to, but got to check next week.

I think dholly has some sticks.

Actualy, I remember reading an article long ago that said John Larsen modified his Avid, and called it the "Pursang", and the Airdale was copied from it.

I would love to have a copy of the photo which shows the tent by the Airdale, but don't know how to get it to print.

Ed in MO

? Not sure what you are seeing...which photo? Coincidence, my dog is named Gizmo.

Gizmo looks great, but "Old Geezer" (ME), must have put this on the wrong string. It went with the Lexan TD photos, and I got an answer.

I used to say that this old Dinosauer is enept with puters:

Guess I should change that to invalid. Not senile yet, I remember most mistakes - just mostly lost with newfangled contraptions.

I can still drive a wagon pulled by mules, and keep it on the runway! ;<))

Ed in MO

I may have my wife convinced to let me buy the Airdale flyer kit.

I'll have to sell off the J3 restoration project I have in the garage but I think it might be worth it. I've been so impressed with the performance of this Avid especially in the off airport landings/ takeoffs that I would love to see what the Super Avid (Airdale Flyer) can do. Currently I don't have any sort of baggage area setup in my Avid, the STOL wings and one wing tank. I'd love to have more HP up front and some baggage space for camping/fishing supplies in the back. Right now as i'm set up, my Avid is just an around the local area machine and i'd love to upgrade it and go exploring while being able to carry enough fuel and supplies to overnight somewhere.

I'll probably have to sell off the old Avid STOL at some point but wouldn't mind holding on to it until I get the new toy flying.

Do any of you have any experience with the new Airdale flyer? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

John Larsen, (sp?) who wrote articles on engines, was flying the Avid in Mountain Country. He coordinated with Dale to make the Airdale to his specs so he could have a stronger gear, a place to sleep in the plane, and other things. They stretched the Avid, and used a Stratus EA81.

I watched David Goode in Nikiski, Alaska, build his. Have lots of photos somewhere. Baggage door on left sid, bigger rudder, etc.

Sound thinking, IMHO, J3 baggage is only for a toothbrush, and soap!

Ed in MO

PHOTOS ADDED

New - Electric Stabilizer Actuator

Used - Electric Elevator Trim Flap Actuator

Used - Rubber stick grip with 4 button switches

Used and Yellow taggged Instruments : Kitfox 100 airspeed, Altimeter, Vac T & B, MAP, Suction, Rotax 2 cycl engine guages, DG,

Some like new, others condition unknown, some are from certified planes

Whelen HRDF, self-contained fuselage strobe, clear lense, NOS with mount ring. In original box, never used

Grove mounts for spring gear (2 kinds)

Lots of other KF parts - let me know your wants.

Complete set of Cleveland wheels, brakes, MC's and park MC off of Piper

Aluminum Axles??

Tri-pacer nose gear parts

Ed in MO

headset plugs + strobe switch + battery isolator

Neat setup - a little imagination does wonders. I am thinking about putting my ELT antenna there, since my roof is 6 inches higher than standard, it will fit under my lexan turtledeck.

The com antenna is farther back, and ELT says "seperate by 3 feet from com antennas".

Ran out of room on the IP, got to innovate for some things.

Ed in MO

Well it started pouring and blowing here finally. First precip we've had since before Thanksgiving. I've had projects to do to my plane that I saved for winter but the weather has been so good I have not been motivated enough to tear into it.

My new prop got here today so I'm going to go out and put it on tomorrow. I'm also going to pull a wheel off and get the holes marked on my new gear. My prop is the same thing I'm running now. 70" warp TAPERED TIP with the Nickel Leading Edge. I found a private vendor on Barnstormers that ordered them for me for $100 off retail. My current prop has 2500 hours on it from the previous owner and it's pretty well beat to sh$t.

Tomorrows project while it pours the rain that we REALLY need!

Time to put my other toy away that I've been flying lately. This is an high performance Align 700 Nitro heli. It's 64" across the rotors and it has a 3.4 HP Nitro motor. It's alot of fun and you have to love the mechanical wonder of it.

Don't mind my thrashed work bench

What hub/engine do you have? Heli's can't fly - they are just so noisy and vibrate so bad that the earth repels them! Too many parts to break before they crash! Thanks for helping me support my bro-in-laws retirement at Anheiser Bush.

Ed in MO