EDMO

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Posts posted by EDMO

  1. Posted

    I have the trim tab on my Avid MK IV.  Got it locked solid now though with a 3/16"  bolt and fender washers top and bottom.  Last summer right after I started flying the plane after the rebuild, the cable broke and had just a bit of flutter with the tab flapping up and down.  I had bought the heavier sized piano wire and couldn't get it around the bends the outer cable went through.  Ended up reusing the old cable and it only lasted for a few flights.  Have to add that to the next order.   Usually, I just had the trim set so it would fly hands off, never used trim for landing.  JImChuk

    PS  Don't think I will find anything in the Kitfox 4 manual (I have 2 of them) as the Kitfox 4 didn't have a trim tab.  Thanks though for the offer Ed

    Jim,  I just checked my KF4-1200 manual and it does show a built-in electric trim tab, like the one that was on my KF2.  One thing I noticed on the drawings is that the hinge folds from the top side - I think this might be a mistake, since you get better down travel with the hinge at the bottom of the elevator, although it could disrupt the air flow when the tab is down?  EDMO

  3. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Jim,  I've got a built-in trim tab off of a Kitfox that had electric trim - Maybe I can get a photo tomorrow for you.  I built Foxy Flapper with openings in both elevators for trim tabs.  One is automatic for flaps.   I think they are about 24" long, but have to measure chord.  EDMO

  4. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    I'm debating whether to deregister the nose-wrecked Kitfox 3 with no engine that I have - probably worth about the same for parts, but sure don't want any liability to take away the $10 I am leaving my widow!   And, if it is deregistered, someone could be the builder instead of the repairer and get the certificate to do their own conditionals.  EDMO

  5. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    I think your DPE (Dipstick Pilot Examiner) is full of BS!  Check the FAR's for required VFR instrumentation - I see all you need:  Heading = Compass,  VSI and Slip/Turn indicators show attitude,  Altimeter shows height above MSL, and RPMs, Oil Pressure, etc., show engine condition and sight gages show fuel level.  I believe that a Basic 6-Pak is all that is required unless you are doing an instrument rating.   Did I leave something out? - Airspeed too.   If I am "behind the times", there are CFI guys on here that can advise you.  Are you just trying to convince your wife that you want some electronic instruments?  Otherwise - How in hell did we ever get a PPL in a Cub or Champ?  ???    EDMO

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  6. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    I believe that I read the instructions from IVO about cutting the blade tips.  Try to get a copy of that - AND carefully inspect the hub ends before using it.  EDMO

  7. Posted

    Its like a J3 but different...

    What kind of remark is that?  There is no comparison between a J3 and a Catalina - But yes, they are "different"!  EDMO

  9. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Rick,

    The Avid manual says to scuff the spars with 360 grit sand paper when preparing them for gluing so I would be cautious about sanding them with100 grit.  I agree with Ed that you probably don't have to totally remove all the old glue, just the high spots. Insert the tanks and see if you can strap them together in the spars and get the center to center distance to be correct. (I used ratchet straps to do this and to hold the spars in tight when gluing.)  Once you get that you can drill the bolt and pin holes (with the tanks strapped in place) and can glue the tanks in after you do the spar inserts (unless these are still in the correct locations). Then you have to completely wrap the tanks and spars with fiberglass- 1 random sheet and 1 woven sheet to get the structural strength.

    Randy

    DSCN2709-1.jpg

    DSCN2748.jpg

    Just to clarify my post about sanding the Hysol high spots with 100 grit - Although Kitfox says to sand out scratches on the spars with 100 grit, that is to be followed by finer sanding and polishing.  I didn't mean for you to sand close enough to scratch the spars - just to take off the high spots of Hysol.  Also, tightening fabric with a moving iron at 250F is not like holding the heat gun in one spot directly on the spars at that temperature.   EDMO

  10. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Thanks Chris!

    The downfall of a Bee schemed airplane is an absence of deniability.  Somebody called the cops on me, saying they thought an airplane was having trouble out in the desert.  When I got back to my home Airfield I got the tower asking me to call them!  Everything worked out, but a nice plain white airplane could be a benefit! 

    I don’t even want to think about having two projects hanging over my head!!!  Ha!  Keep plugging away...

     

    Ron

    I think Leni may have the right attitude if you want to remain under the radar - Paint it like 10,000 others!  To the public, they are all Piper Cubs!  EDMO

  11. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    "a good A&P" must be one familiar with tube & fabric planes, preferably Kit-Planes - lots of them only know about factory spam cans.  Another Avid/Fox builder might be as good or better than an A&P.  Take your time to evaluate it - it may not be as hard to fix as you think.  Good Luck,  EDMO

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  12. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Several builders have worried about the wingtips or flaperons not being the same when folded - This is not nearly as important as how everything matches when the wings are unfolded in the flying position.  A minor difference of only 1 degree at the rear spar pivot point can make as much as 2.5" difference at the wing tips when they are folded.   I think that the Magnum with Finch tips needs a little difference to keep the tips from touching when folded?

    (.017" per degree x inches of length)   .017"x144"=2.448"   EDMO

  13. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    TJay,  Just my way of thinking, but I believe that each spring should support 1/2 of the loaded weight of the plane somewhere near the top or first inch of travel of the spring.  Maybe that is how they calculated the springs, even tho they didn't have enough travel?  I don't know what kind of leverage forces are involved there.  1600#/inch sounds like serious overkill to me.

    I would think that you might be able to find some stronger springs with more travel before bottoming out?  I would think that some spring company (maybe McMaster-Carr?) would let you list your specs, and guide you to the spring that meets your needs?  EDMO

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  14. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Not sure what it is per inch but its number is 503190854  Ill take them off and check them sometime

    Leni posted a chart of the springs on here giving the specs for all of them - it should be on the chart.  I think I bought that one too for my nosegear.  But, I just checked it and didnt see that spring # listed.  I think it may be 325#/inch?   At least, that is what I put on a card sometime ago.   EDMO

  15. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Guess I may be one of the "cheap builders" - That seems like it is still a high price to pay for something you can quickly make?  A piece of 4'x4' Lexan and a couple of 1" aluminum angles bought locally and a few bolts or rivets wont cost you over $60, or so, or you could just bend the Lexan and not need the angles, bolts or rivets.  EDMO

    Lol For me it would go just like everything else does

    Why Pay 8 bucks for something you can build for 200 ha

    Me too!  Still kicking my ass for not buying a nosedragger Kitfox 5 or Avid kit back in '97 - Would have cost less and have more value than my scratch-built, and lots more flying hours on it since then - But it has been fun trying to build my own, while flying other planes!  EDMO

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  16. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    TJay,  Did you use the 390#/inch springs that Leni used?  If so, it sounds like maybe time to try some rubber or Polyurethane donuts to compare - after you fix the toe-out.  EDMO

  17. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Guess I may be one of the "cheap builders" - That seems like it is still a high price to pay for something you can quickly make?  A piece of 4'x4' Lexan and a couple of 1" aluminum angles bought locally and a few bolts or rivets wont cost you over $60, or so, or you could just bend the Lexan and not need the angles, bolts or rivets.  EDMO

    2 people like this

  18. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Guess that I too, should have been more specific - Kitfox uses 1/4-28 threads with 3/16 crossbolt.  I may have the numbers for it, or even a spare, but you should be able to find them in Spruce catalog.  I really like the extra strap that was shown on the Catalina.  Good Show!  EDMO

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  19. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    One dozer driver dug up a 22 POUND solid Gold nugget while I was up there - About drove everyone nuts!  EDMO

  20. Posted

    I would have bet the tube end had 1/4 -28 threads.  See if you can get a 1/4" threaded heim joint.   JImChuk

    Or check on equivalent Aurora part - They are usually cheaper and have same specs.  EDMO

  21. Posted

    Great News TJay,  Cant wait to see it / you in the air over the E-fields of Iowa soon.  Oh, I'm sorry that you got some of the snow I had ordered to keep Jim happy on skis - I will try to be more specific the next time I order it.  ;<)  EDMO

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  22. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    So further research.  The rod end that is on the aircraft is an Aurora MW-3M-1 Which turns out to be a special part from Aurora which is no longer available.  it was a 10-32 thread.  So now I need to find a threaded rod end that fits 1/2 inch tube and has a 10-32 thread.  not an easy task int he UK :)

    No wonder that these are bending & breaking, with tiny 10-32 threads!  Kitfox uses 1/4-28 threads which are much stronger.  You can buy those too.  EDMO

  23. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    You are probably right. I would guess honey-comb aluminum and foam board. Did the article say what the outer skin would be? I have somewhat closely followed BeLite since they had a presence on the web. James has some interesting ideas in regards to design and materials. Seeing his ultralights evolve into the Chipper, makes me want to keep up with whatever comes next. I know form follows function but, at present, the Chipper still has a fairly 'board & slab' appearance. Hard to get past that without impacting the build-time figure. His instrument offerings may be what keeps him in business while he develops his aircraft kits. One thing is for sure, James has way more brains than I have ever pretended to have!

    No other info in the article except that they plan on making floats.  I wonder what the price will be, since the basic plane kit is $12K.  I agree with what you said.  EDMO

  24. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    Interesting article in June 2018 Kitplanes mag about the new 2-place BeLite CHIPPER Kitplane - Also mentioned that they are planning to make floats for the 1232 GW bird - Bet that they will be the lightest floats yet?   EDMO

  25. Posted · Edited by EDMO

    That's a cute little dinosaur descendant photo of the Hummingbird.  My College Geology teacher, who was also a Palentologist (SP?) and got to name the latest dinosaur found in Alaska, said that there was about a 100 Trillion to 1 chance of us ever being here.  Maybe she was right?  It's too much for my tiny brain to figure out.  I just wonder why the dinosaurs came first for hundreds of millions of years, if we are supposed to be "The Chosen Ones"?  Maybe the Dinosaur Farts were needed to produce the Ozone layer to protect us from the Sun?  ???  EDMO